UPDATE: Price dropped to $13,900.
(12/17/2018) Looks in good shape.
https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/houston-1946-willys-cj2a-restored/6885822513.html
“Restored 1946 Willys CJ-2A. It is equipped with a Flathead 4-Cylinder Motor, Single-bbl Carb, 3-spd Manual Transmission, 6-Volt system, and Drum Brakes all around. The engine, transmission and 4×4 are in great condition. There are no noticeable rust issues. The paint and interior are in good condition.
Options:
All matching and brand new tires: Falken Rocky Mountains
Mileage: 21099
Engine #: 2.2 Willys Go-devil
3 on the tree, three speed manual transmission”
Sure looks nice. Just a couple things I noticed: no cowl washer (square or round), no bow holders, and Solex carb. Overall pretty “righteous”, though 🙂
… no rear reflector, electric wiper, the “4 wheel drive” on the tailgate, chrome headlight bezels. The running gear does not appear to have seen the attention the green has…
nitpicking, but details matter when you get to 15k
…and no trailer plug cover
and I’d be drilling the pop rivets out of the tags and replacing with screws asap 😉
Interesting to see what appear to be three early “solid” rims and two slotted.
I agree with all the comments ,my guess is repro body which cuts the value in half .
Out of curiosity, why does a repro rust-free body reduce value by half?
A repro rust free body reduces that value by half because they don’t fit right, and the body profiles are wrong and can be identified for 25 feet away.
I currently have a 5 year old repro body (just bought it 6 months ago) that was properly prepped and painted but not garaged. It is rusted through in all the hat sections, and 2 places on the floor.
I would buy another rather than junk a Jeep, but it is a last resort.
By way of example, here’s one with what I believe is the original body (as evidenced by the repairs and dents). This is not mine, I’m just citing it for the purpose of discussion: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-JEEP-WILLYS-CJ2A-RESTORED-ORIGINAL-4×4-CONVERTIBLE/392203352232?hash=item5b512438a8%3Ag%3A~0QAAOSw6n9cJ6eZ&LH_ItemCondition=4
Terry/Keith
Good morning.
I don’t know anything much about the 2a. But regarding a possible new body for a 3b, I would rather have a new body rather than an old rusty one.
So price is less for a replacement body but not half less. I have a replacement body on one of mine and because of the 16″ wheels it is the best looking 3b I have.
To find an unmodified/unmolested, rust free body is near impossible. I am a resident of the camp that an original body is worth far more than a reproduction body, even if almost all the sheet metal had been replaced with quality U.S. stamped steel. We had an M38/3A MD Juan bodied Jeep that was produced in the ’80s. Even with the utmost of care taken by the previous owner in the professional paint job, and the overall care taken for it from “new”, it still rusted out fairly quickly. The fit and finish of the body and the fenders was terrible. The hood overlapped the grill by to 3″. The fenders were not flat, but looked more like gull wings. The quality of the composition of the steel was more like rebar and various other types of scrap iron was smelter to make the sheet metal. This made it difficult to weld, because it could not handle heat near as well as the original rusty steel.