The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
Tom, from Forks, Washington, has a new CJ-5 project he's purchased. He had a question about the location of the vin plate on the body. He thought it should be on the passenger side firewall, but that's where the battery holder is located. Anyone know where the vin plate is on a 50s CJ-5?
“Trail ready, looks good too! Totally refurbished tub streched to fit 1972 frame w/diamond plate half doors and custom diamond plate fenders. 350 Chevy V8. T98 ford 4 speed w/compound granny low. Soft ride suspension. 35″ Kelly Safari tires on steel chrome wheels w/matching spare. New soft top and bikini top. 9000lb Warn low profile winch. All new wiring. Heater. Kenwood detachable tilt face CD player”
This jeep has been for sale for a while. The owner was asking $5000 obo, but I think now will take something lower. Looks like a great little jeep.
"This is a 1948 CJ-2A willys, Chevy 350 V8, Turbo 400 transmission Rebuilt less than 500 miles ago, Dana 18 Transfercase Rebuilt less than 500 miles ago. This is a fun little jeep. Have taken it many places Pismo Gorman ect. Does not have an overdrive top speed around 50mph. But will go up, around, through and down almost any hill you have the guts to try. Needs some work but any vehicle that old will always need tender loving care. I am getting rid of her because i got married……She has been kept in a garage and i have done alot of work to her."
“BOUGHT BY FATHER 12 YEARS AGO, STORED LAST 5 YRS, TAKEN OUT APPROXIMATELY 3 TIMES A YEAR FOR CASUAL USE OR JUST TO CLEAN
WHEN PURCHASED, FRAME UP RESTORATION, BUT DID NOT TOUCH BODY, ORIGINALLY WAS PINK BUT WHEN PURCHASED RED IN COLOR, REBUILT MOTOR, PUT IN NEW BREAKS, WHEEL CYCLINDERS, BRAKE LINES, MASTER CYCLINDERS, TIRES, SHOCKS,SAND BLASTED, PRIMERED AND PAINTED EVERYTHING. THERE IS A SOFT TOP AND DOORS INCLUDED, SEE PICTURES”
The add says '45 Willys, but the body looks to be 46 or greater, so I'm calling it a 1946 CJ-2A. It appears driver's side step isn't there, so likely some rust underneath. Also, the ad says roll bar, but it looks to be a full cage. Woodland is north of Portland.
"45 Willy's stock motor never had the head off runs and drives great nice top newly recoved seats, newer rancho suspension,roll bar $3000 OBO"
This is a nicely modified CJ-2A called “Quick Change”. The builder built a similar drive train to what I’m doing, except for using a 289 where I’m using a buick 3.8. We even have the same rims.
“This is a jeep I picked up a while back. It has been trail riding since 1981 and has the little trail ride plates on the dash. It is a modded steel body with very little rust by some trail scars. Specs are: 1947CJ2a, Chevy 283 V8 (I was told this was a stroker…no way to prove it without dissasembly), Torker intake, Tall chevy aluminum valve covers, Edelbrock carb with the offroad needles and seats (works awesome off road)…..”
I don’t know whether Craig is finished with his jeep or not, but he certainly had some terrible rot to deal with. I’ve linked to the ‘Golden Triangle Jeep Club’s’ bulletin board for this Build story. Below is the pic of Craig’s M-38 body:
“you could draw a line down the middle of the body and replace all of the driver’s side floor to be safe. i’m gonna avoid catalog bought floor panels and construct my own from 16 gauge sheetmetal along with new crossmembers. i got a pair of Wagoneer Dana 44s last weekend and am working on the suspension, which will be stock waggy leafs in the front and YJ leaves out back. I picked up a Chevy 4.3 V6 to use and can’t decide on which tranny to go with, but i’m thinking SM465 b/c Novak offers a really short adapter to the Dana 18 case….”
UPDATE: Tom Florenz just let me know that these jeeps are still available.
These will require a closer look.
"2 for the price of 1. Clear titles. Don't run. Have extra transfer case with pto. 52 needs an engine, clutch and one of the transfer cases installed, and the steering finished converted. The 51 looks to be as stock as I know with the L134 engine. After I got it home and cleaned out the junk I found most of the engine parts. It will need to be rebuilt. the 51 could be towed the 52 will have to be trailered. More pictures available. originally purchased to honor a fallen Marine (former student). No heart to finish the job."
Between the tires, gears, winch and roll cage, this looks trail ready to me.
“This is a 1945 militay jeep 4X4 machine it has 5.38 gears, 9000lb Warn winch, warn hubs, buckshot tires, 350 Chevy motor and and cooling system out of a race car recently built but valvue covers leak a little i took the seats out cause they are not in the best of condition but still get the job done the front axle is welded solid roll cage needs a little work but is a jeepers dream come take a look at it im asking 3,500.00”
“Wedding and new home forces sale of my toy. This jeep is in very good condition. I recently put a 4″ lift and brand new 33×13.5 Super Swampers on it. It has a Ford straight six in it with a 3spd and 538 gears so it gets along well. I believe the engine is a 200 out of an early 60’s Ford. Runs, drives, and has collector vehicle license plate so it never needs license/tabs. Title in hand. I will try to post some pictures soon, but I am hoping someone will save me the trouble. Joe”
This jeep has been for sale for a few months now, but hasn’t been listed in a while.
“Here is a nice running little jeep. In stock condition with all original running gear and flathead 4 cylinder engine. Drives good and looks decent. Has had 12volt upgrade on electrical. New tires, wheels, brakes, carb, recovered seats. Has tow-bar, bikini top, and spare front axle assembly that goes with it. 4 wheel drive works great. Has some rust in the floor boards typical for this year of jeep, and passenger side windshield is cracked.
Great little rig for hunting or wheeling trails. “
I picked up the last of the buick v6 engine parts yesterday and they are all home. Lyle and Bob at Bob's Mechanical were great to deal with and very reasonably priced. The last of the new bearings (crankshaft and rod bearings) and rings should arrive on Friday. All the parts are clean and the cam bearings are in place, so it should be a pretty straight forward build (famous last words).
Since I'll be gone most of next week in Seattle, I've decided to put the engine together the week after next and invite my children (ages 14, 12 & 10) to participate. That should make the process more interesting!
This GPW looks like it has had a caring owner. Some minor mods has made it more ready for camping and carrying equipment.
"I have a 1943 Ford GPW Willys Jeep 4×4. Original running gear, 4 cyl, manual trans. There is less than 10,000 miles on the motor. Other extras. For more info please call Mike 916 424-2018. $3500.00 obo"
I guess today is 'red jeep' day; Lots of them for sale! This stock CJ-2A still looks great. Very likely it's a good restoration candidate.
"You are viewing a good running and driving 1948 CJ2A. I've owned this Jeep for about five years. I'm the third owner and I have the title. I've done just a few things to this jeep including: rebuilt starter, generator, new brake wheel cylinders and a couple of other little things. It does leak oil and pops out of second every once in a while. The heater does not work, but did when I first got it…."
This sounds like a pretty fair price for a flat fender in good working condition. Not many comments about the body, so that will likely need closer inspection.
"This is a 1949 Willys CJ3A Jeep that runs and drives good. Has original flathead 4 cyl engine, T90 3 speed trans and model 18 twin stick transfer case. New 12v alternator, voltage regulator, battery and the original starter has been overhauled and works like new. Has front bucket seats and a rear seat as well. Roll bar, bikini top, spare tire w/ carrier and fuel can carrier. All wiring, gauges, blinkers and lights work fine…. 360-513-9824"
This same seller has the following parts for sale:
Complete running F134 engine carb to oil pan $250 Willys CJ3A frame in great shape $250 Willy's stamped hood for CJ2A or CJ3A $35 Dana 25 front axle from CJ2A $75 Koenig PTO unit rebuilt W/ mounting bolts $225 360-513-9824
UPDATE: Oops, forgot to include the link — thanks Mitch
There's a number of nice detail pictures that show some nice work. Note the modern running gear (likely mid 70s CJ-5 running gear). I can't say I'm a fan of the tranny/tc mount — it's a single bar that just waiting to be hit by a rock. It most definitely needs a skid plate of some kind. I think the body is fiberglass, but I"m not entirely sure.
"Motoexotica is proud to offer this 1947 Willy's CJ-A2 Jeep 4×4. This Jeep has a 3 speed automatic transmission with newer big 33 inch mud tires. This tough Jeep is ready to play in the mud or just go for a drive. It has power steering, power brakes and a working heater!
The motor is Buick 231 Cu In 3.8 liter V6. It is fun to drive with the GM 3 speed Turbo Automatic Transmission. The motor runs strong. It has a quadrajet 4-barrel carb with an aluminum Edelbrock air intake and a Jeep transfer case with a Dana 44 rear-end."
Out of Florida comes the saddest jeep of the month and it's only June 2. Unless you are heartless, you can't possibly look at this jeep and not want to donate to National Orphan Fund for Wayward Jeeps. However, given the condition of this jeep, it might be better to take it out to the ranch and shoot it rather than obtain a 2nd mortgage on your house to repair it.
"WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET VERY SOLID TRUCK WITH MAINLY SURFACE RUST, FRONT FLOORS HAVE BEEN PATCHED, FRAME IS GREAT, HAS AIR SHOCKS IN THE REAR. HASN'T BEEN RAN IN OVER 5 YEARS. NO REASONABLE OFFER WILL BE TURNED DOWN, SO DON'T WAIT."
This is a detailed list of the products, purchases, and decisions I’ve made. I’ve added links to posts which contain pictures or more information regarding the part. It will continue to be updated over time.
Frame: I’m using a 1973 CJ-5 Frame that was part of a running CJ-5 I purchased. I stripped and sold most of the parts, retaining mostly just the axles, frame, gas tank, and misc pieces. I stripped the frame of everything, including the shackles, cleaned it, then painted it. During the process I added permanent front and rear bumpers, a new front cross member, and a new engine mount system. The frame is plenty beefy for the V6, so I didn’t do any additional boxing in except for the area from the new cross member to the new front bumper. Here’s an overview of the changes to the front of the frame as well as images of the backend. Here’s the painted frame.
Front Axle: This is a stock Dana 30 from a 1973 CJ-5. Except for changing the spring pads, this is a stock Dana 30. I chose this because I had it. It is stronger than the Dana 27 and 25 and was easier for me to obtain than the Dana 44 for the front. The gears and seals were in good enough condition that I did not rebuild the pumpkin. I have not installed a locker or posi because I did not have one installed in my last jeep and never felt like I missed having it. So, for the time being it will remain open.
Front Brakes: I’m using the standard 1973 drum brakes, which are rebuilt.
Rear Brakes: I’m using the 11″ drum brakes from the ’73 CJ-5 I dismembered.
Power Brakes: I’m using the Power Brakes from a early 1990ish Cherokee. Along with that, I’m using the combonation valve from the same cherokee. Thus far, between the drums and the power braking system, the brakes have rocked.
Swing Pedal (brake): These swinging pedals came from a junked 1990ish cherokee. The nice thing about this setup is that I have both the clutch/brake setup and a wide brake (automatic tranny) setup. Therefore, swapping to a clutch, if necessary, will be simplified.
Rear Axle: This is a stock Dana 44 from a 1973 CJ-5. I purchased a locker off of craigslist. While installing the locker, I discovered the R&P was bad (broken teeth), so I found another R&P for cheap off of Craigslist and installed it and the locker. The rebuild kit for the rear-end was purchased off of Craigslist. Here’s a post discussing disassembly. Here I put it back together.
Front Springs: The front springs are 2 1/2 inch springs from the rear of a Wrangler that I purchased as part of another jeep. I Added an additional leaf from another left over spring set to beef them up slightly. I also redrilled the center hole on the main spring leaf, repositioning forward about 3 inches. I used stock wrangler springs so that I could easily update them with aftermarket wrangler springs in the future. The shackles are reversed. The front spring holder is homemade. The rear spring holder was purchased and welded to the bottom of the frame. The shackles are aftermarket that modified MB I purchased. I’ve used stock cherokee u-bolts and u-bolt plates. Here’s some pics. And, more pics.
Front Shocks and Shock Mounts: The shocks came from Bucks, a local 4 wheel drive store. The mounts I made myself. They ended up bigger than I would like, but they’ll do for now.
Rear Springs: The rear springs are 2 1/2 inch springs from a late 80s cherokee out of a junk yard. I redrilled the center hole of these springs. Again, I chose these as they’d be easy and inexpensive to replace. I purchased the rear shackles from summit, but they were too long (I misunderstood the description) and had to cut them down (the good news was that I could cute them to the exact length I wanted them). Here’s some pics.And, more pics.
Engine: The engine core is a 1980 buick V6 231. The block has not been bored. It has 9.1 Compression, Hypereutectic Pistons, 288 Duration Cam, unported heads, Aluminum Edelbrock Performer Intake 4 Barrel, Holley Aluminum Valve Covers, High Volume Oil Pump with an additional hardened steel plate and .015″ of extra gasket spacing, dual external oil filter, and chrome headers (well the top part is still chrome). The former engine owner believe this engine would likely put out 250hp given the updates, however I can’t verify that. Here are the engine mounts. I take apart the engine and discover a bad crankshaft. I found a good deal on a V6 that has a good crankshaft. Here, I find Cracks in the heads.
Remote Dual Oil Filters: I’ve got a dual remote oil filter system that came with the engine I purchased, so I decided to give it a try. I figured it would also act as a cooling system.
Oil Pump: I read enough information that I was strongly encouraged NOT to use a high volume pressure oil spring with my 1980 Buick V6. Here’s a little about the oil pump. The oil pressure runs about 60 PSI with the normal spring.
Carburetor: This is an old Carter Competition Series 500 CFM that I got as part of a engine trade. I tried bidding on a rebuild kit off of ebay, but after an unsuccessful bid offer, I turned to Summit (CRT-902317A) for the kit.
Transmission: I decided to go with a TH-350 transmission. It’s one of the shorter auto trannys, it’s cheap to maintain, parts are plentiful and it’s a strong tranny. I struggled mightly with the tranny decision, as I’ve always preferred a clutch. However, after extensive reading, I decided I’d give the automatic a try, as it would give me an excuse to learn more about them, as well as compare and contrast the differences. While TH-350s are pretty common in junkyards and on craigslist, finding a short shaft with the TH-350 adapter for a Dana 18/20 transfercase is much more difficult (the adapter alone is $500 new). After much searching and waiting, I finally located a tranny that had been rebuilt several years ago and only used a few times before the owner wrecked his jeep. I chose not to rebuild the tranny at this time; I’m gonna see how it runs and then make a decision on whether I can tolerate the auto in the jeep before I dump any money into a rebuild of it. I’m using a B&M shift assembly I obtained as part of my engine purchase. Here’s a discussion of the changes to the transmission shifting unit.
Tranny Cooler: I pulled one from the local junkyard.
Transfer Case: Because of the center pumpkin of the ’73 Dana 44 rear end, I went with a Dana 20 transfercase. As I’ve chronicled in the video below, I improved the Dana 20 gearing by using Dana 18 gears and obtaining a Rear sliding gear originally used in the early Bronco Dana 20 transfercases that I purchased from the Bronco Graveyard. Here’s a transfercase post, an overview of how the gears work, and a look out how I set up the dual shifte
Paint: I purchased the paint from an ebay power seller. I was supposed to receive the color Aqua Pearl, unfortunately, though I received a can labelled aqua pearl, it was actually a darker color (likely Teal Green). I didn’t realize how much darker until I started spraying it onto the body. This is one product I won’t purchase over the net anymore.
Body: I obtained a fiberglass body that was in horrible shape. I’ve nursed it back to health through a steady diet of fiberglass and resin. I believe I’ve got an older bobcat body, but I couldn’t say for sure. I prefer the body style with the look of its wider lip that encircles the interior of the body. While fiberglass bodies can be a little or a lot lighter (depending on the body style), they aren’t quite as tough as a metal body. Fiberglass bodies can still be found from time to time on craigslist. I will do my best to build a description of as many of them as I can. Here’s a number of pics of rebuilding the body. Here, I’m painting the body and part 2 of painting.
Fenders: Through craigslist I found a never used bobcat racing body that included fenders and a grille. I bought the entire package then resold everything but the fenders. I chose these fenders over new fenders because 1) they were cheaper and 2) the newer fiberglass fenders from places like JC-Whitney’s came with an extra lip in the front that I didn’t like. Once purchased, I had to cut and extend them, and then create the sections that wrapped around the headers. Here I start the extension process. Here I complete the process.
Grille: The grille is the only original part of the jeep left. My experience was that the fiberglass grilles just weren’t strong enough to hold up to daily wear and tear. So, I took the original 1949 grille and stripped it down pretty bare. Then, because I wanted to use the 5 1/2 inch rather than 7 inch headlights, I had to fiberglass down the headlight holes. I chronicle the grille here.
Headlights: I got my headlight housings from a local junkyard that has a huge inventory of cars from the 40s, 50s and 60s. The housings allow the use of a 5 1/2 inch rather than the standard 7 inch headlights, creating a different look. The housings are from an Oldsmobile Dynamic 88, which actually used two sets of these on each side. I discuss them here.
Hood: I created the hood out of fiberglass using a homemade mold. Due to the height of the intake manifold, I was later forced to add a scoop. I hope to redo the hood and make some minor improvements next time.
Radiator: The radiator was purchased through Doug Herbert High Performance Parts. Aluminum Radiator (GRI1-25241-X) was $179.99, the best price I found anywhere. The fit was perfect, 27 1/2″ x 15 3/8″ x 3″.
Wiring: I used a product called KICKZ, a product I won through an ebay bid of $143, which was one of the best prices I’ve come across. I was pleased with the ease of installation and organization of the wiring. The wire gauge was heavy and the wiring had some thick insulation. Nothing about the harness felt cheap to me. Here’s some posts about the wiring.. getting the wiring, installing it 1, installing it 2, installing it 3, installing it 4.
Tires: I’ve got 7 old desert dogs which I will use for racing. I haven’t decided on what type of new tires I’ll purchase.
Roll Cage: The roll cage is 2″ diameter .12 thick CREW Tubing that is connected to the frame in six places. The tubing is mounted in 6 places. The front plates use 4 3/8″ grade 8 bolts at each plate. The middle plates use 4 1/2″ grade 5 bolts at each plate. The rear bolts use 2 3/8″ grade 8 bolts at each connection. The plates are 1/4″ thick plate. Here’s an overview of the final build and research related to my cage.
Gas Tank: This is a stock CJ-5 gas tank from the 1973 CJ-5.
Gas Pedal: This is a custom pedal made out of a piece of aluminum and covered with some skateboard sand-paper-like covering. On the back, I’ve used a couple rollers so that the pedal rolls down gas pedal lever. I found this worked exceptionally well while racing and jeeping, as it kept the pedal from moving due to bumps.
Power Steering: I used a common saginaw hydraulic steering mechanism. I borrowed an idea from a friend to neatly connect the tubing from the pump to the steering unit. You can view what I’ve done to develop the idea and then what it looks like when it’s finished. Here’s a video on fixing a shaft leak on the powersteering housing.
Steering Column: The steering column came out of a late 80s cherokee. It seems to be a GM-type column to me, as all the wiring matches the GM columns. At first, I cut the steering housing down a couple inches, but then discovered I needed to the extra length (oops), so I welded back the extra length. I created a custom attachment to bold the column onto the fiberglass dashboard, connecting it to the brake housing to improve the strength.
What I found interesting about this jeep was that it appears to be a standard wheel base running a chev 327 and TH-400. That's a pretty tight fit. Must be a short rear driveline. Note the driver's side fuel inlet in the back. Looks like some good work all around. I'd like to see some more pics of this jeep.
"$8500.00 OBO, Super clean, Fully restored, Rootbeer Brown Paint, Brown leather High bucket seats, 327 chevy corvet engine, Automatic Turbo 400 Transmission with over drive, 33 inch Dune tires custom wheels, tow winch and never been off road since restored, CD player plus extra's. CALL DON 209-652-6193"
Andrew McGraw (and friends) gave new life to a beat up 1943 MB (to the right is an 'after' pic). The only before and after pics are of the engine compartment, but the differences in those two pics is pretty dramatic.
"The Willys MB project was a feat in that it was completed in about 2 months. Having been in my friend’s family for many years, they were looking to do a restoration/upgrade on it.
It had undergone so many repairs and body modifications over the years. That fact, combined with the cost and relative impracticality of a full authentic restoration led to the decision to rebuild and modify. If I were in charge of the finances, I would have at least upgraded the powertrain/drivetrain to that of a YJ, at the minimum. A fuel injected 5-speed MB would be awesome. However, I wasn’t in charge of the finances or major decisions…."
These two jeeps have been for sale for a few months, though they haven’t been listed in a while. Both jeeps have full cages. One jeep comes with a winch. Both bodies appear in at least decent shape. Unfortunately, Minden is a bit out of the way. Given the price of gas, I doubt too many people are going to drag their haulers down to Minden unless the price drops further.”