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1942 GPW Parts Portland, Or

• CATEGORIES: GPW (Ford MB)

This seller is parting out a 1942 GPW frame for $50 (though the pictures show the axles, they are no longer there).  Separately, he’s also selling the engine $150 and the tranny/tc $250.  If you are collecting GPW parts, this might be worth checking out.  It sounds the seller is looking to get this out of the drive way.

The Frame Ad:
“1942 Willys GPW frame for sale. Need to sell to get it out of my yard. Would rather have it go to a jeep lover than the scrap guy. $50 bucks and it is all yours. The engine, transmission and axles are NOT included just the frame (sorry old pictures they are not attached now). Get back to me to set up a time to see it.”

The Engine Ad:
“Engine block from 1942 Ford GPW with the bell housing all original and ready to sell at $150. It needs a Willys jeep lover to work on it but will be worth it. Come by and take a look.”

The Tranny/TC Ad:
“Willys 1942 GPW transmission shifts smoothly all original, this needs a good home not my garage. Come on by and take a look then take it home. $250 and it is yours. Original Willy’s rebuilt ones cost $750 and up, the case alone is $200 for a reproduction one. Get back to me to set up a time to see it.”

 
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Aluminum Wheels from CJ-7 Longview, WA **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Tires and Rims

UPDATE: **SOLD** Were $150.

These are a reasonable price.  I haven’t seen many of this style for sale.

“These are a set of wheels that came on a CJ-7 that I recently purchased. I used some other wheels, so I no longer need these. They are aluminum, they are a 15 inch diameter rim by 8 inches wide with 4 inch backspacing. These are a 5 lug by 5.50 pattern. That means they will bolt on a Jeep CJ or willys, Ford F150 trucks and Ford Bronco. They come with chrome center caps. There is nothing defective or wrong with the wheels, a little soap and water would do wonders. If you have any questions, please e-mail me and I will get right back to you. Thanks for looking and have a nice day.”

 
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Sand Flat Fender Jeep Tualatin, Or $3000

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A, Racing • TAGS: , , .

UPDATE:  The price has dropped to $3000 (but only for this weekend — Nov 1st & 2nd 2008).

This CJ-2A sand jeep sports the very rare parkette fiberglass body.  Only a handful of these bodies were made (At one time I was told only about 10 of them).  It sounds like it has some good parts, but it will take some work to convert it to 4wd.

“1941 cj2a military jeep that has a a full fiberglass body so you dont have to worry about rust or dents on this 67 year old jeep! it has a stout good running 350 small block with a 700r transmission. the tread on the tires are very good and i would say have conservitivly 85% of their life left. i just put a brand new radiator on it with all new verrry expensive rad. hosing which is actually 150psi petroleum trasfer tubing so it will never break or pop from heat. 971-645-1635”

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/898162709.html

 
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1952 CJ-3A Arcata, CA **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3A

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was $2500.

It’s stock, but it comes with some body rust.

“1952 Willys Jeep CJ3A. Runs and Drives. Completely Stock. Lock-in/ Lock-Out Front Hubs, Original Heater, New fuel pump, tank, minor tune. Factory Hardtop with Doors can be included. Clean Title with current CA tags.”

 
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1951 CJ-3A Beluah, Michigan $700

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3A

No pics to show the condition.  Probably not good based on the seller’s description.

“not running needs total restoration all there has rare hardtop hard doors with role down windows call jeff days 231-882-9636 after 5pm 231-882-0636”

http://nmi.craigslist.org/cto/896097101.html

 
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Brian’s Military Jeeps has moved to WWIIJeepParts.com

• CATEGORIES: Features, Website

Brian’s Mililtary Jeeps website can now be found at http://www.wwiijeepparts.com/.  If you haven’t visited the site, you really should.  Brian has a wealth of information and details throughout the site.  For example,’What is Cosmoline?‘ is a question I never thought to ask, because I’d never heard of it; However, Brian not only knows to ask, but also has a ready answer! Below is Brian’s description of his website.

“The WWII Military Jeep Website – Dedicated to restoring WWII Jeeps – the MB, GPW – mfg. by Willys & Ford from 1941 – 1945, and outfitting them with proper parts, accessories, accouterments and militaria. MB/GPW, Slat Grill, “F” Script and other Rare Parts For Sale & Trade. “

 
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1954 M-170 Tuscon, Az **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: M-170

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was $3800

“Highly collectible willys jeep. Production started in 1954 :500 units of this particular jeep were made that year. During the life span of 1954 – 1964 only 6,500 units were produced. This could be the top 50 left for that year in such good condition body wise. Has original parts, even the tires!!! Items needing to be fixed:
Engine is Honeyed and will need a clean-out. Brakes will also need to be placed on the jeep. Will need seats.
We haven’t had time to restore the Jeep and would like for someone else to take over the project. “

 
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1948 Sand Racer Myrtle Creek, OR **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A, CJ-3A, Racing • TAGS: , .

Updated:  **SOLD** Was $4500.

“48 willys, for race or play, wont take much to turn into play mode. Has 325hp 289ford, tci streetfighter c4 tranny, 3000 stahl conv. dana 44 rear full floater and dutchman axles. Douglas wheels, 16.50 paddles. Custom frontend with spindles. Jeep weighs 2200 pds. This is a very consistent sportsman racer with lots of wins, call for details. I have owned for 12yrs looking for someone to take care of and have as much fun as I have, serious inquiries only please. Comes with extra seat for passenger, tranny, converter and parts.”

 
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My Build — Additional Wiring

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit

Over the weekend I completed the wiring along the engine.  I wanted to hide the wires as much as possible, keep them as organized as possible, and not connect them to the fenders.  Below are pictures of the lines run from the alternator, from the fan assembly (the wiring runs from the fan, over the radiator, and down along the grille to meet with the front light wiring) and then the wiring from the grille along the frame to the cowl.

This is the dual fan setup I purchased from North Coast Peformance, an eBay Power Seller.  I fiberglassed the two fans together and built a metal frame to surround them and attach them to the radiator framework.  This setup included a thermostat that slides snuggly inbetween the radiator fins.  These two 10″ fans cover almost the entire radiator, making it a tight fit.  However, between the aluminum radiator and the fans, I should have no overheating problems.

Continue reading

 
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1953 CJ-3B La Grande, OR **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3B

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5250.

On my way to look at the jeep in Wallowa, I spotted this jeep just outside of La Grande, Or.  Apparently, it is all stock except for the tires, top and brakes.   However, I noticed that the front bumper has been chopped to the width of the frame, so I suspect there might be a few other minor changes as well.

I’ve included several pics below (it was behind a fence, so my image options were limited).

Continue reading

 
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My Build — Vacuum Hoses

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit

Because the engine I had wasn’t entirely complete, I was unsure how I should run the vacuum lines.  Last time I ran my vacuum lines, I’m pretty sure I guessed — Or, maybe I asked dad.  This time, I consulted google and learned a little bit more about vacuum lines.

First, there seems to be plenty of confusion about whether vacuum lines should run from the intake manifold or from the ports below the carb.  As I understand it, the vacuum from the intake manifold is a little more consistent at or near idle.  However, most stock applications will operate fine from the ports below the carb. Here’s some information about vacuum that I used.  I found some additional explanations, but I seem to have misplaced the links.

The high rise manifold I am using only has one vacuum outlet, so I chose to use that for my powerbrake hose (which I will obviously need to lengthen).  I used the port behind the carb to hook to the th350 governor on the back of the transmission.  I blocked the large port on the front of the carb.  Finally, I hooked the small port on the carb to the distributor.  I figured these were low risk decisions, as all of these are easy to change if I need to make a change.

I didn’t invest a ton of time doing research on this, so if anyone has any other suggestions or info, please add a comment.

Continue reading

 
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My Build — The Front Driveline Clearance

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit

One issue I’ve put off for a while is the close clearance between the front driveline and the transmission.  Because the TH-350 is so much wider than the standard tranny, the driveline runs very close to the transmission pan. Unfortunately, some of the pics didn’t turn out great, but here’s a few of them.

To improve the clearance, I used a torch to heat up the pan and dent it.  That went well, until I tried to put the pan back onto the tranny.  It turns that a casted piece was now bumping against the pan slightly, keeping the pan from going on correctly.

To fix that problem, I wrapped the transmission in plastic and cut a little hole so the cast piece was sticking out.  The plastic would keep any grinding pieces out of the tranny.  Then I grabbed my grinder and ground down the part.

This worked surprisingly well (meaning nothing went horribly wrong).  The piece ground easily.  The pan fit nicely.  My clearance improved. So,  I sanded and painted the pan and put it back together.  I’ll add an additional pic showing the clearance once I improve the light so it shows up better.

Continue reading

 
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Four Wheeling Plus in Ellensburg, Wa

• CATEGORIES: Features, News

Four Wheeling Plus owner Ron Dunn Jr. is moving his shop to a smaller location, so he says he has some great deals on a variety of products.  You can learn more from the PNW4WDA website or go to his website.

“Yes I am selling my shop but NO I am not going out of business. I am selling my 6000 square foot shop that is pretty much out in the middle of nowhere and I hope to buy/lease a smaller building in town where I will get more foot and drive up traffic.”

 
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Race Jeep Rochester, Wa **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A, CJ-3A, Racing • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  *SOLD*

This appears to be a parkette racing body.  The front of the frame looks a little twisted.

“Race Jeep for sale. $2000 OBO–This is a great jeep & a great buy… This jeep has no engine, but all running gear included and this is a great addition to any racing team. This is set up for a Buick V6 231 with a 4 speed. It has 44 axels with 538 gears and a good transfer case. We are also including 3 spare Desert Dog tires with wheels in this great price. Please email me at courbail@hotmail.com with your information. .”

 
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Weekend Updates

• CATEGORIES: News

I was so busy this weekend with my jeep that I delayed my weekend updates until last night.  Unfortunately, just as Poseidon toyed with Ulysses, my web provider appears to enjoy toying with me at times, making access to the site nearly impossible last night.  So, I’ll being provided updates throughout the day today.

1.  The first update is that I’ll be heading north to Seattle tomorrow for a few days.  In the morning I’ll be stopping by Wallowa, Oregon to take a closer look at this old racer.  Then I’ll be swinging by Tigard, Oregon, to pick up the rims Mitch purchased.

2.  Brian sent me some updated pictures on his project, so I’ll be filling in readers on his progress.  He’s taking the entire week off as he’s busy with his dogs all week.

3.  I need to provide updates on my project — I was very busy this weekend completing a variety of finishing touches.

4.  Of course, I need to update the site with the latest jeeps for sale.

But, before I do that, I’m off to play some basketball.  So, stay tuned.

– Dave

 
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1942 MB Vashon Island, Wa $1700

• CATEGORIES: MB

It isn’t clear to me whether this runs or not.

“1942 Willies Military (Navy) Jeep complete with most original hardware. $1,700 includes extra engine. Ready for restoration.”

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/891903388.html

 
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1966 CJ-5 Washougal, Wa $2600

• CATEGORIES: CJ5

This CJ-5 has got some great extras for jeeping, including posi front and rear, full cage, dual tanks and more.

“CJ 5 Jeep 1966. 4 speed, Chev. sm. blk. 4-sp./ 4 barrell carb. Full roll cage, bimini top. Bucket seats. Tilt wheel, stereo. Possi- front and rear. After market wheels. Headers. Call 503-740-7396 or 360-835-5467”

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/892377435.html

 
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1944 MB Seabeck, Wa $3000

• CATEGORIES: MB

This appears to have a later model windshield.  It’s hard to tell much else from the pictures.

“New L head engine and clutch , runs good willing to take offers.”

l

 
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Old FC 150? Portland, Or $2495

• CATEGORIES: FC150-FC170-M677, Unusual

My guess is that this is a modified FC 150?   No doubt it’s rare! Maybe It’s the perfect vehicle for that FC collector who has it all.  It sounds as if it runs, but the owner doesn’t have a key?

“Unique vehicle. May be custom built. was told that the running gear was from a 1953 Willys. The seats are from a Volkswagen. The front windshield is movable. Has tow bar attached to the front. 6 volt battery system. Has a swivel arm on the back. 2 front seats. 4 wheel drive. Purchased it with my property and don’t know if it runs. Has never been registered. don’t have a key. The original owner was a hunter and did use this vehicle. Price $ 2495.00 or best offer.”

 
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1955 CJ-5 Halfway, Or $2999

• CATEGORIES: CJ5

This early CJ-5, first year of production, appears very stock and in good shape.

“Rare 1955 Willy’s jeep with a flat head 4 cylinder engine. Manual hubs, high low transfer case, & 3 speed transmission. Was grandpas old jeep but after he suffered a stroke the jeep just sat in the garage for years. Now that he’s passed the jeep has become my responsibility & is not a restoration project I have time to complete. The jeep does run! Please call Casey the owner & make an offer @ 541-742-5915 or myself the computer gu-ru for more pictures through the e-mail.”

http://bend.craigslist.org/cto/892593407.html

 
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My Build — Wiring the Grille

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit

Today I enjoyed a productive day hunting around the local junkyard.  I collected a powerbrake setup, wire plugs, vacuum tubes, manifold connections for the vacuum tubes, gas tank rubber piping, the plastic harness that envelopes the wiring, various knobs, and much more.

One of the things I never liked about my first jeep was the rather messy way I wired it, including the way I ran the wire around the grille.  This time, I have been able to spend more time thinking about how to organize the wiring.  You can see the results below. (yeah, that’s the kitchen table — it was getting chilly outside)

As part of the trip to the junkyard, I wanted to find a headlight switch, and some accompanying switches, that I liked.  Most of the ones I found were cheap plastic or rubber.  After a good deal of searching, I found some real metal knobs on two mid 70s dodge vehicles (truck and a van).

Puzzling through the headlight switch wiring was a bit confusing, because I didn’t have a wiring schematic to follow.  At first I tried hooking up the wires in a few different ways to a battery and a voltage tester, but some of the wires still weren’t working.  After a good deal of searching, I finally found a schematic that was close enough.   I discovered from the schematic that I need to bring in two power sources, one for the headlight power and one for the parking lights/dome light/turn signal power.  Using the schematic,  I was finally able to label the wires for installation.

While searching for a wiring schematic, I came across a design for updating the lighting system using some relays.  As I understand it, for a variety of reasons, the amount of power that finally gets to the lights, especially under idle conditions, is lower than 12 volts, causing the lights to dim.  Using relays and the wiring schematic show should improve the situation.  Here’s a discussion about it.

 
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Wrangler Baja Race Jeep — Arizona **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Racing, Unusual • TAGS: .

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $14,000

“Wrangler built to race in the desert. This Jeep has a long winning history but used very little the last 10 years.
Built to be Score legal. Race built AMC 401. Art Carr AMC 400 Turbo Automatic transmission. Dana 60 rear end, 456 gears, & Summers full floating axles. Mastercraft seats, 5 point harness. Flame-out fire ext. system. 32 gallon JAZ fuel cell. 5 brand new Pro Comp 35 X 12.50 X 15 tires.Comes with spare AMC 401 motor, spare raditator, tires & wheels, spare shocks, several sets of leaf springs, drive shafts, and another 4 boxes full of spare parts. $14000, OR TRADE FOR ??????”

 

 
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1971 Jeepster Bothell, Wa $5600

• CATEGORIES: Jeepster

For some reason, this jeepster attracted my attention.  I’ve seen other nice jeepsters, but the prices on them are normally much higher.

“1971 Jeep, Jeepster Commando.  Engine: Upgraded from original Jeep 225 v6 to a direct bolt in Buick 231 v6 HEI. Excellent power and fuel economy. New tires. Transmission: Automatic TH400 (original), Power steering, Power brakes, Repainted original Mohave Metallic Brown, Seats recovered( some wear), custom matching door panels, Last year of the CJ5 type front clip on the Jeepster, 7,903 Jeepsters were made in 1971, fantastic collector/investor vehicle, Run super strong and drives excellent, completely ready to go, incredible condition. Call Steve at (425)478-3330”

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/888579398.html

 
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1954 CJ-3B Maple Valley, WA **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3B

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2500.

“Clean all original with PTO winch, new warn hubs, runs good.”

 
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My Build — Oops, My Alternator Bolt is a Bit Too Long

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit, Features

Well, the best laid plans… While puzzling through the charging system, I decided I needed to pull off my alternator so I could determine exactly which kind of alternator I had (Delco 10SI 63 Amp — Determine your GM alternator).  As I pulled out the long bottom bolt upon which the alternator pivots, I discovered a problem: There wasn’t enough room to pull out the bolt.  Even after clipping a hole in my electric radiator framework, I still ran directly into the radiator (see the pic to the right).  Fortunately, I discovered can undo the radiator, shift it somewhat, and then can pull out the bolt far enough to let the alternator slip away.  So, at least I have a method, though elegant it isn’t!