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1947 CJ-2A “Blindside” Lake Geneva, WI **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was on eBay.

(08/07/2010) This is a fiberglass bodied flattie on a custom frame.  I’ve included lots of pics of this good looking build.  Note in the last image is a stack of vintage, though used, desert dogs.

Engine: Small block Chevy, .060 over 4 bolt main, 360 cubic inches. Mallory Unilite electronic ignition, Mallory Promaster coil, Edelbrock 750 CFM carburetor, Edelbrock aluminum intake, B&M air cleaner, Crane musclecar 350/350 hydraulic camshaft, melling high volume oil pump, SRE high torque mini starter, marine aluminum 8 quart oil pan, aluminum Mickey Thompson valve covers, Griffin aluminum radiator, aluminum high volume water pump, ceramic coated fenderwell headers, & 2 ½” turbo mufflers.

Transmission: 1970 Chevy Turbo-hydramatic 400 3 speed automatic. Trans was disassembled, boiled, and rebuilt with: new steels, new clutches, new band, new gaskets, and new seals. Valve body has a B&M trans-pak shift kit & adjustable vacuum modulator. Torque convertor is a 10”. Trans temperature is maintained via a ‘Keep Cool’ frame mounted trans cooler. Trans is shifted via a B&M Pro-Stick shifter with reverse lock-out and rear cable conversion.

Transfer-case: Dana 20 twin-stick. Transfer Case was disassembled, boiled, and rebuilt with new gaskets, new seals, & new bearings. Shifter ‘lock-out’ detent was removed to achieve low range in 2 wheel drive.

Rear Axle: Dana 44. Axle was disassembled, boiled, and completely rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, and bearings. Axle has 30 spline one piece axle shafts, new ring and pinion gears (4.27), new spring pads, new u-bolts, freshly turned drums (11”), new shoes/spring kits/wheel cylinders, new brake lines, and rear cover.

Front Axle: Dana 25. Axle was disassembled, boiled, and completely rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, and bearings. Axle has 4.27 ring and pinion gears, new spring pads, new u-bolts, freshly turned drums (11”), new shoes/spring kits/wheel cylinders, new stainless braided flexible brake lines, new closed-knuckle seals, and ‘Warn’ locking hubs.

Chassis: Custom built 2” x 3” tube frame with: frame mounted 8-point roll cage, heavy duty spring perches, military-wrap springs, heavy duty shackles and shackle bolts (w/ greasable zerks), heavy duty shock absorbers, removable transmission cross-member, heavy duty motor mounts, tube brush bar & bumper, and GM Power steering (Saginaw box, 4.25 turns lock to lock).

General:

Fiberglass body and fenders, original windshield & grill shell. Wilwood aluminum swing pedal assembly & brake master cylinder. Offenhauser throttle linkage. Quick disconnect steering wheel. Holley high-volume electric fuel pump. Holley high pressure fuel regulator. Fram high-volume fuel filter. ½” aluminum fuel line.

Heavy Duty battery cables. Southwest speed battery box. Moroso battery disconnect. Diamond plate dashboard with grab bar. Autogauge gauges. ‘KC Daylighter’ headlights. Wheels are 15” X 10” Ansen aluminum slots. Tires are 33 X 12.50 X 15. They don’t appear to have been used much as they have a ton of tread.

All the gauges (speedometer/odometer, oil pressure, voltmeter, & temperature) work. All lights (headlights, tail lights, brake lights, gauge lights) work. Seats are fully adjustable high back buckets, and are fairly comfortable. The wiper motor is new, but has never been hooked up.

The willys runs, drives, handles, and stops good. The 10” torque convertor seems to stall too high, if I kept it, I would replace it with a stock 12” convertor. The paint is not perfect, and there are a few holes that are an eyesore (hole for an antennae & a hole for a gas tank filler tube…see pics). The windshield frame has some rust (see pics).

Willys also comes with 4 KC Daylighters, a 2 sets of 3” seat belts, steel diamond plate rocker supports, and a steel diamond plate rear surround (see pictures). Please ask any and all questions. Thanks for looking, Doug”

Continue reading

 
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1948 CJ-2A Georgetown, Tx $700

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A • TAGS: .

Those seats look uncomfortable, but it runs … sort of.

“I have a 1948 Willys Jeep for sale that is basically a project for someone… I had started on it and with no time to get to it Im hoping someone else would enjoy something like this or a perfect ranch vehicle… It has the original flat head 4 cylinder motor, all parts are there, and it turns over but needs a new distributor as the old one is worn out. The tires on it hold air and I have already replaced the condensor, points, spark plugs, and coil. Feel free to call me with any questions or to shoot me an offer
Call Billy anytime at 512-508-4810 .”

http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/1905684844.html

 
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1959 CJ-5 w/Jeep-a-Trench Oakland, Md No Price

• CATEGORIES: CJ5 • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  Price dropped to $2500

(07/28/2010) “1959 Jeep with a Jeep-ATrench in the back from a company called Auburn Machine Work Inc. Hard to find. It runs but smokes. New tires and starter. Bad body but comes with another tub for it. It digs down to baout 5 feet and is driven by PTO and drive. Asking $2,500 obo or trade. Call 301-334-2864 or email

http://tuscarawas.craigslist.org/cto/1905013666.html


 
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Tucker #1045 Sells for $1,127,500

• CATEGORIES: News

Hemmings.com reported yesterday that Tucker #1045, estimated by RMAuctions to go for $550,000 – $750,000 was auctioned on Friday, August 13th, for $1,127,500 — the most ever for a Tucker.  Now that’s some price appreciation!

 
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1942 MB Sacramento, Ca $5000

• CATEGORIES: MB • TAGS: .

UPDATE:  Still Available

(07/06/2010) It looks original, but I can’t tell if it runs.

“It”s all original,it has pink slip needs tender love and care if interested call me at 530-277-5222”

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1905778012.html

 
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1954 CJ-3B Wenatchee, Wa $5900

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3B • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  Price dropped to $5900

(05/07/2010) This looks in great condition.

Excellent Condition Restored Runs Great High Hood Rare Find. Call if interested Jon @ 1 509 669 0874

http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1906707393.html

 
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1943 GPW Downey, Id $600 and more …

• CATEGORIES: GPW (Ford MB)

UPDATE: Price dropped to $600

(08/07/2010) Brett found this project.  This jeep has seen some action (though not sure if the war or the owners caused more damage).

RARE FIND!!! This is a 1943 FORD GPW Jeep. Serial #110254. It is missing the hood, grill, gas tank, and glass out of the windshield frame – otherwise complete. Worth a great deal more and a lot if restored. Body damage is minimal – normal for the age. It has a Willys Flathead motor. Motor turns over with a wrench – have never tried to get it fully running. Bought it as a set with a 2nd Ford jeep that I am using and so don’t need this one. Call for more info. Asking $600 OBO.”

http://eastidaho.craigslist.org/cto/1906765140.html

This seller also has the following for sale:

3 Bodies:
1946 MB. Body AND frame. Missing hood and fender. $300
1957 M38A1 – Tub, grill, fenders, windshield frame (with glass), Two dashes(one of them has the main gauge), and hood. Little rust not bad. Does not include seats pictured. $900
1965 CJ5 – Tub, grill, fenders, hood, no dash. Fenders have rust and so does the body but not too bad $500
also have two frames
1942 frame with axles rolling chassis. $300
I ALSO have a complete FORD GPW Jeep for sale in the automobile category. Check it out.
All prices can be negotiated…
Text or call (208)604-5562 for more info.

http://eastidaho.craigslist.org/pts/1906766990.html

 
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Sebastian Returns from Colombia

• CATEGORIES: Features, International, Reader Stories • TAGS: .

I hadn’t heard from Sebastian for several months, so it was a nice surprise to get an email from him.  It turns out he just returned from a trip to his native country of Colombia.

Among his exploits on vacation was a 2 day trip in a CJ-3A with his dad that took them from Medellin to Bogota, covering nearly 400 km (about 250 miles) with elevations varying between 1300 ft to 8500 ft.

Sebastian provides images from his trip as the Flat Fender Club of Butler’s website.  I’ve linked to a couple below.  I’m hoping to sneak into his luggage on his next trip to Colombia — it’s a beautiful place.  Thanks for sharing Sebastian!

 
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Always Double Check Your Lug Nuts …

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit

It all seemed simple enough.  I’d pull off the front, driver’s side tire, pull off the front brake drum, adjust the brakes (The front right was pulling some on braking, so I needed to adjust the front left), and put everything back together … easy enough, yes?

Well, that was last night.  This morning, I hopped in the jeep and drove down to the local gas station to get some gas, before heading to the local home/garden shop (Zamzow’s).

As I exited the station, my pedal suddenly drops to the floor.  Hmm .. not good.  I jump out, lift the hood, and, sure enough my accelerator cable connector had come loose. I re-attached the cable and drove back home to more permanently fix the solution.

So, I’m back on the road, heading to Zamzows again. Life is good.  I drive about 2 miles and I start hearing a tinging; “an odd sound,”  I think to myself …. I listen more closely; “That is coming from the front left side.”

And then it hit me, “had I tightened the lug nuts from my brake work the night before?”  Crap, I couldn’t remember.

At just that moment, when the grip of dread descended upon me that I might have forgotten to tighten the nuts, I was looking down at the driver’s tire, driving about 35 mph, when a silver bullet shot from the wheel and landed in the grass divider (never did find it).  Holy shit!  That was a lug nut!  I pulled over into the median (it’s a rural road with a grass median) and checked out the situation.

After doing some accounting (yes, that MBA of mine really came in handy about now), I concluded the situation was not good.  1 lug nut missing.  2 lug nuts loose.  2 lug nuts holding on the rim.  0 tools … and 1 idiot standing there (yes, that would be me).

What to do?  Head back home very slowly.  Every 1/4 mile or so I stopped, jumped out, hand tightened the lug nuts, got back in, and kept going.  Drive another 1/4 mile & repeat.  You get the idea!

I finally did make it home, tightened everything back up, PACKED MY TOOLS, and took off again. No more problems the rest of the day … whew!

However, to add insult to injury, my adjustments still didn’t fix the pull to the right I have!  Just know that I won’t be forgetting to double check my lug nuts in the future!!

 
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The ‘CJ-5′ Overlander at earlycj5.com

• CATEGORIES: Advertising & Brochures, CJ5, Features, Willys Wagons

The earlycj5.com site recently published some great brochures about a CJ-5 truck called the overlander which was available in Australia.  Check it out! (Thanks Dan).

 
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1943 GPW Pickensville, Al $3500

• CATEGORIES: GPW (Ford MB)

Christian spotted this jeep with its unusual ‘battery box’.

“This posting is a 1943 WWII era jeep. Rare find for this particular year group. Drive train is in very god mechanical shape. Starts up and runs with ease and is frequently driven around our property. Specs on this jeep are: L-Head 4 cylinder Willy’s Jeep engine. 3 speed transmission w/reverse, Serial # – DPW111455. Gross weight 2,430 lbs. Date of Delivery to the War Department: 5-26-43. Included is the original fuel tank although it is not shown in the photos. Also included is The Complete WW2 Military Jeep Manual TM 9-803, a unique and complete owners manual for this jeep. How many other postings can offer that? Willing to trade for an equal in value pontoon boat. Email and I’ll answer questions or give directions.”

http://meridian.craigslist.org/cto/1884598027.html

 
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1952 M-38 Williams, AZ **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: M-38

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4000.

“1952 WILLY JEEP M 38 still running the body is in great shape the only thing altered is the second battery box was removed and bonded over. This was done before I received the Jeep. The 24 volt system was removed and the 12 put in its place. Let’s be honest here the body is probably the only original M38 part. The motor is a 6 cylinder from a scrambler placed in the jeep. The motor is a Buick V6 225. It has a 3 speed transmition out of a 1968 CJ5 as well as the transfer case they are the same make as used in the earlier willys. I added power steering to the jeep also. I do have extra parts also.  I check my email all the time so if you are interested I will reply. make me an offer. Do not ask if i still have this i will not reply due to other people pushing a better way to sell.”

 
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1953 M-38A1 Goldendale, Wa $2800

• CATEGORIES: M-38A1 • TAGS: , .

This looks good and includes a PTO & an Overdrive.

“1953 JEEP M38-A1,stock,straight,original,many extras,hard top,roll bar,tow bar,gas can/spare tire rack,PTO,warn overdrive,11 inch brake kit,warn hubs,extra motor,tune-up parts and lots more,never abused,turn key,clear title,$2800.00 firm.(509)773-5032(509)250-0169”

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1904456537.html

 
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1942 GPW San Dimas, CA **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: GPW (Ford MB) • TAGS: .

UPDATE: Was $5995.

Maybe it is the white on the rims, but something looks odd about them to me .. I can’t quite place it.

“Hello, We are selling our 1942 GPW Jeep with much regret. We were hopping to restore this wonderful jeep, but as we all know, the economy stinks so we selling this great creature. The serial # is 78169 and was build in Nov 11, 1942 and the hood # looks like # 20186593.
Thinks that I know about the Jeep;
It has 5 Combat Rims
4 NTD Tires and 1 other type, (maybe off road on a combat rim. It is on the back of the jeep in photos.
2 gas tanks for under the seat. one with a side spout and one that is filled by under the drivers seat.
Gauges look orginal, milage gage got painted by someone other than me
2 ID plates are there. 1 data plate missing
Some rust in the tool box bottom, but not bad.
looks like wrong radiator and carburetor
Looks like orginal Head marked GPW
Block is got the look of the orginal blue but not the matching block # as Serial #.
Engine turns over and looks like good compression
Has a what I believe is a T-90 transmission
Steel seats are “F” marked
Winshield is cracked
Missing horn and air filter
Has new “F” marked canopy frame”

 
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1946 CJ-2A Kingston, Nh $6000

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A • TAGS: , .

This appears in good shape.

“NICE RUNNING JEEP, MANY NEW PARTS, 4WD WORKS PERFECTLY, NICE PAINT, NICE INTERIOR, READY FOR PARADES OR TO DRIVE EVERYDAY, IF YOU DONT LIKE GETTING THUMBS UP WHEN YOU DRIVE, THEN YOU DONT WANT THIS ONE. PLEASE CALL RUSS @ 603-642-8305 BEFORE 8PM. NO EMAILS PLEASE”

http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1903282758.html

 
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1948? M-38? Fountain, CO **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: M-38

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1000.

This is either mis-titled or is mixtured of parts.

“This is a non running 1948 jeep. I bought it a project. all the parts appear to be there. I no longer have the money or time due to other projects. I want to trade for a Quad of equal value in running condition. Please don’t call before 10 am.”

 
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1957 FC-150 Moorcroft, WY **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: FC150-FC170-M677 • TAGS: .

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was3500

(01/22/2010) It hasn’t been started in a while.  It looks pretty solid.

“What we have here is a 1957 jeep fc150. It is a 4 cylinder manual transmission. It is complete, but I haven’t tried to start it since I got it. I am pretty sure that cleaning out the carb, putting some oil in the cylinders and fueling it up would do it. There are two places it is rusted through, a small spot under the passenger door and the bed, both easy to fix. Floor boards are solid, interior is complete. The sun has deteriorated the dash, easy to fix There are a number of surface rust spots, a little sandpaper and primer will take care of them. I don’t really want to sell, but I don’t have the time to work on it or a shop to put it in. The last one of these I saw on ebay was totally rusted out, missing parts and apart on a garage floor, the “buy it now” price was $5000. I have it priced at a reasonable $3500.”

 
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1947 CJ-2A “Lefty” MIddlesex County, NJ **SOLD?**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A • TAGS: .

UPDATE:  This probably sold.  Was priced at $400.

This might not be a bad price.  The body appears a bit rough.

“Not in running condition ! Great for parts or a project vehicle. All original parts including a flathead 4 cyl. motor, T-90 trans. , transfercase, axels & seat frames. Does NOT have a canvas top or doors. Needs to be towed ! Cash only ! Leave your name and a phone number and a best time to call you or I won’t reply.”

 
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1949 CJ-3A Elmwood Park, Il eBay

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3A • TAGS: , .

Looks good.

“!949 CJ3A for sale. I bought this from a guy in Denver. Wiring was terrible, engine compartment was a fitter’s nightmare. Body off restoration 2008. Only holes in body are the holes that belong there. Painted Potomac Gray w/ Harvard Red wheels. All parts are used Willys (all refinished). New Koker tires and tubes. New instruments- Amp, oil press, temp, fuel. speedo came with car. Rebuilt carb from 2 Carters. Rewired gen’y for 12 V. All new hoses and correct type clamps. All new cloth wiring. Wired for turn signals to rear, but wires are put away. All body hardware in place for canvas top. Lower door channels are not installed, but are included. Missing: wipers, inside mirror, rear seat, battery hold-down bracket. All vacuum lines in place, rear seat mounts are in place. Just rebuilt starter( Bendix). New battery today. New coil today. Car has sat for about a year. Started today and drove. No problem. No leaks. Most seals are new. All fluids have been changed. I’ve been using lead additive. Didn’t take engine apart. Horn is correct tone.I bought this car for $5000, invested approx $6000. I’m selling because I have a ’55 CJ5 for a daily driver, and a ’61 DJ3 for my summer fun car. I will be selling a ’67 CJ5 V6 after trans is replaced (1st gear lost 2 teeth). I haven’t put more than 500 miles on this car. This car will ship almost anywhere in cont’l US for about $650.”

View all the pics on eBay

 
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1948 CJ-2A Corpus Christi, Tx $1500

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A

UPDATE:  Price dropped to $1500.  New Pics added.

(11/20/09) This is a one of the “lefty” cj-2as, with the spare tire mounted on the driver’s side.  I swear I’ve seen this jeep before, but I can’t find it in my database. This ran before a bunch of work was done on it; and, there is still work left to be done.

“This is a ’48 Willys, it has been parked for over a year. Ran when it was parked. The lights have been converted to 12 volt and it has 15″ rims on it other than that it is original. I removed the wiring to replace it with more original style but have not finished this. The jeep ran good when it was parked, the tranny and transfer case have been completly rebuiltIt and the front shafts have been replaced. it has a one piece windshield frame with the glass cracked. If you want more pics email for them.”

http://corpuschristi.craigslist.org/cto/1903468771.html

1948_cj2a_corpuschristi2

 
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1948 Jeepster Springfield, Il **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Jeepster • TAGS: , .

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5200.

(06/03/2010) This looks pretty good for the price.

“1948 jeepster new top new curtains, runs good, carburator need a little work.”

 
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1953 M-38A1 Aransas Pass, TX **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: M-38A1 • TAGS: , , .

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was $6000.

(08/01/2010) This looks nicely restored.

“1953 Willys M38 A1 Jeep good running condition”

 
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1960 Wagon St. Louis Museum, MO **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Willys Wagons • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was on eBay

(07/16/2010) Here’s a nice wagon, though it’s not exactly museum quality.

“One of the very few remaining unmolested Jeep carryalls in the world!! It is just one of 485 ever built in 1960. This vehicle was sold new near Springfield, Illinois in late 1959. It got repossesed shortly thereafter and remained in storage for years. An auto Museum in Springfield purchased the Jeep in the late 1990s and kept it until the museum closed a few months ago. The vehicle is amazingly solid with an all original interior. It has been painted in it’s original color. We see very little to no evidence of major rust issues. It runs and drives and is a blast. Comes with it’s original 1959 Illinois license plates!!”

 
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1947 CJ-2A Colmesneil, Tx eBay

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A

UPDATE:  Back on eBay

(02/16/2010) This is a project or parts jeep.

“You are bidding on a 1947 Willys, according to identification of rear end and body style.  The engine is a Ford 6 cyl. and runs well has new starter.  This is a project so it is rough some sheet metal has been replace and the brakes do not work.  Trans seem to be in good shape, transfer case, High Low range and all gears.  Clutch operates fine.  As you can see in pictures no seats only original frames.  Gas tank is removed.  Rear hubs are welded on rears axel shafts but I do have extra shafts that have not been changed.  Frame is in good shape.  Just needs love and attention!  I have no title but will give a bill of sale.  As far as I know it is a Texas vehicle.  No shipping available but I can store as long as needed at no charge.  $ 500.00 due at close balance due in 3 days, cashiers check or money order.”

View all the pics on eBay

 
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Installing Rack and Pinion Steering on an old Willys (4 hours)

• CATEGORIES: Features • TAGS: .

UPDATE:  Sam has provided some detailed instructions (which will replace mine) and will also be sending some pics when he completes his next installation.

One idea Sam has shared with eWillys readers was the rack and pinion steering modification he has been doing.  He describes this as a pretty straight forward installation that can replace the stock steering in any flattie.  Sam says this takes him about four hours to complete. Pics are forthcoming on this modification.

Sam describes the process as follows:

1) Remove Steering: Take out the existing steering mechanism and the mounting plate.

2) Remove Drag Link: Remove drag link from old box to bell crank

3) Layout Straight Edge: With front wheels straight ahead, use a straight edge  (anything will do, I use a piece of conduit) and lay one end on the passenger side tie rod from the spindle and the other side on the frame rail directly above the drivers side tie rod end at the spindle  This will give you the approximate location for the rack and pinion.  DO NOT USE original box location as this will put the cross link through the engine block.

4) Where to Mount Vega Plate: Take the Vega box mounting plate (The plate Sam uses is this plate from Unisteer.com) and using a large C-clamp, attach to frame with the top of the plate even with the top of the frame.  This will put the mounting holes in the right place.  You will notice the top two holes are inside the opening of the frame and the third hole is below the frame as it should be.

5) Temporarily Mount Rack: The rear edge of the Vega plate should be ONE inch ahead of the line from the tie rods towards the front of the vehicle.  NOTE….at this point, it is very important to temporarily mount the rack (You may use longer bolts to clear the C-clamp).  Once mounted, move the wheels all the way to the right and make sure you have at least one inch clearance between the cross link from the Rack and the oil pan.  Do the same with turning the wheels to the left.  If you have the proper clearance, you have the right location for the mounting plate for the Rack and Pinion.

6) Weld Plate to Frame: Weld the Vega plate in place and be sure to use the supplied gusset ( I use two of them, as I have found that with one gusset, there is a chance for mount twist under harsh conditions such as four-wheeling……strongly suggest you do the same  grin grin)

7) Attach Rack and Pinion: Bolt the Rack and Pinion in place and attach the cross link to the Rack and with the Rack centered and the wheels dead ahead, mark the cross shaft for cutting allowing for the length of the tie rod end.  Now you may cut, thread, and install the tie rod. The unit Sam uses is this cross steer rack from unisteer.com.

8) Determine Steering Rod Length: Using the conduit, determine the route from the bottom of your steering column to the Rack and Pinion.  This varies with engine and frame variations but is very simple.  Usually all that is required is to determine if the column needs to be shortened or if a double joint is needed.  At this stage, determine what your shaft is…..splined, D shape, square, etc.  This will determine which joint to use.  If round, (with roll pins) I strongly suggest you modify it to D-shape for strength. Sometimes you have to use TWO  rods from the column to the box.  If so, USE ROD SUPPORTS before and after middle joint.  You can get everything you need from Borgson Joints.  If you choose the shorten your column (to use One Rod) you can can get the necessary seal and bearing from them too.

9) Double Check Everything: Double check everything for tightness and clearance and YOU ARE DONE — smile, have a beer.

This sounds simple and it really is, I’ve done soooo many of them, that I can do it start to finish in four hours.  If anyone still needs help, just call me or Dave and I’ll be more than happy to walk you through it.  The last one I did cost $612.42 for everything,  Somewhat cheaper than regular boxes and a whole lot better looking and steering.

If properly installed, you’ll notice the steering much tighter while driving and capable of easily turning under the weight of even a V8 when parked.