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1942 MB Sacramento, Ca $5000


UPDATE:  Still Available

(07/06/2010) It looks original, but I can’t tell if it runs.

“It”s all original,it has pink slip needs tender love and care if interested call me at 530-277-5222”

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1954 CJ-3B Wenatchee, Wa $5900


UPDATE:  Price dropped to $5900

(05/07/2010) This looks in great condition.

Excellent Condition Restored Runs Great High Hood Rare Find. Call if interested Jon @ 1 509 669 0874

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1943 GPW Downey, Id $600 and more …


UPDATE: Price dropped to $600

(08/07/2010) Brett found this project.  This jeep has seen some action (though not sure if the war or the owners caused more damage).

RARE FIND!!! This is a 1943 FORD GPW Jeep. Serial #110254. It is missing the hood, grill, gas tank, and glass out of the windshield frame – otherwise complete. Worth a great deal more and a lot if restored. Body damage is minimal – normal for the age. It has a Willys Flathead motor. Motor turns over with a wrench – have never tried to get it fully running. Bought it as a set with a 2nd Ford jeep that I am using and so don’t need this one. Call for more info. Asking $600 OBO.”

This seller also has the following for sale:

3 Bodies:
1946 MB. Body AND frame. Missing hood and fender. $300
1957 M38A1 – Tub, grill, fenders, windshield frame (with glass), Two dashes(one of them has the main gauge), and hood. Little rust not bad. Does not include seats pictured. $900
1965 CJ5 – Tub, grill, fenders, hood, no dash. Fenders have rust and so does the body but not too bad $500
also have two frames
1942 frame with axles rolling chassis. $300
I ALSO have a complete FORD GPW Jeep for sale in the automobile category. Check it out.
All prices can be negotiated…
Text or call (208)604-5562 for more info.

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Sebastian Returns from Colombia

• CATEGORIES: Features, International, Reader Stories • TAGS: .

I hadn’t heard from Sebastian for several months, so it was a nice surprise to get an email from him.  It turns out he just returned from a trip to his native country of Colombia.

Among his exploits on vacation was a 2 day trip in a CJ-3A with his dad that took them from Medellin to Bogota, covering nearly 400 km (about 250 miles) with elevations varying between 1300 ft to 8500 ft.

Sebastian provides images from his trip as the Flat Fender Club of Butler’s website.  I’ve linked to a couple below.  I’m hoping to sneak into his luggage on his next trip to Colombia — it’s a beautiful place.  Thanks for sharing Sebastian!

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Always Double Check Your Lug Nuts …


It all seemed simple enough.  I’d pull off the front, driver’s side tire, pull off the front brake drum, adjust the brakes (The front right was pulling some on braking, so I needed to adjust the front left), and put everything back together … easy enough, yes?

Well, that was last night.  This morning, I hopped in the jeep and drove down to the local gas station to get some gas, before heading to the local home/garden shop (Zamzow’s).

As I exited the station, my pedal suddenly drops to the floor.  Hmm .. not good.  I jump out, lift the hood, and, sure enough my accelerator cable connector had come loose. I re-attached the cable and drove back home to more permanently fix the solution.

So, I’m back on the road, heading to Zamzows again. Life is good.  I drive about 2 miles and I start hearing a tinging; “an odd sound,”  I think to myself …. I listen more closely; “That is coming from the front left side.”

And then it hit me, “had I tightened the lug nuts from my brake work the night before?”  Crap, I couldn’t remember.

At just that moment, when the grip of dread descended upon me that I might have forgotten to tighten the nuts, I was looking down at the driver’s tire, driving about 35 mph, when a silver bullet shot from the wheel and landed in the grass divider (never did find it).  Holy shit!  That was a lug nut!  I pulled over into the median (it’s a rural road with a grass median) and checked out the situation.

After doing some accounting (yes, that MBA of mine really came in handy about now), I concluded the situation was not good.  1 lug nut missing.  2 lug nuts loose.  2 lug nuts holding on the rim.  0 tools … and 1 idiot standing there (yes, that would be me).

What to do?  Head back home very slowly.  Every 1/4 mile or so I stopped, jumped out, hand tightened the lug nuts, got back in, and kept going.  Drive another 1/4 mile & repeat.  You get the idea!

I finally did make it home, tightened everything back up, PACKED MY TOOLS, and took off again. No more problems the rest of the day … whew!

However, to add insult to injury, my adjustments still didn’t fix the pull to the right I have!  Just know that I won’t be forgetting to double check my lug nuts in the future!!

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The ‘CJ-5′ Overlander at

• CATEGORIES: Advertising & Brochures, CJ5, Features, Willys Wagons

The site recently published some great brochures about a CJ-5 truck called the overlander which was available in Australia.  Check it out! (Thanks Dan).

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1943 GPW Pickensville, Al $3500


Christian spotted this jeep with its unusual ‘battery box’.

“This posting is a 1943 WWII era jeep. Rare find for this particular year group. Drive train is in very god mechanical shape. Starts up and runs with ease and is frequently driven around our property. Specs on this jeep are: L-Head 4 cylinder Willy’s Jeep engine. 3 speed transmission w/reverse, Serial # – DPW111455. Gross weight 2,430 lbs. Date of Delivery to the War Department: 5-26-43. Included is the original fuel tank although it is not shown in the photos. Also included is The Complete WW2 Military Jeep Manual TM 9-803, a unique and complete owners manual for this jeep. How many other postings can offer that? Willing to trade for an equal in value pontoon boat. Email and I’ll answer questions or give directions.”

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1952 M-38 Williams, AZ **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4000.

“1952 WILLY JEEP M 38 still running the body is in great shape the only thing altered is the second battery box was removed and bonded over. This was done before I received the Jeep. The 24 volt system was removed and the 12 put in its place. Let’s be honest here the body is probably the only original M38 part. The motor is a 6 cylinder from a scrambler placed in the jeep. The motor is a Buick V6 225. It has a 3 speed transmition out of a 1968 CJ5 as well as the transfer case they are the same make as used in the earlier willys. I added power steering to the jeep also. I do have extra parts also.  I check my email all the time so if you are interested I will reply. make me an offer. Do not ask if i still have this i will not reply due to other people pushing a better way to sell.”

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1953 M-38A1 Goldendale, Wa $2800

• CATEGORIES: M-38A1 • TAGS: , .

This looks good and includes a PTO & an Overdrive.

“1953 JEEP M38-A1,stock,straight,original,many extras,hard top,roll bar,tow bar,gas can/spare tire rack,PTO,warn overdrive,11 inch brake kit,warn hubs,extra motor,tune-up parts and lots more,never abused,turn key,clear title,$2800.00 firm.(509)773-5032(509)250-0169”

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1942 GPW San Dimas, CA **SOLD**


UPDATE: Was $5995.

Maybe it is the white on the rims, but something looks odd about them to me .. I can’t quite place it.

“Hello, We are selling our 1942 GPW Jeep with much regret. We were hopping to restore this wonderful jeep, but as we all know, the economy stinks so we selling this great creature. The serial # is 78169 and was build in Nov 11, 1942 and the hood # looks like # 20186593.
Thinks that I know about the Jeep;
It has 5 Combat Rims
4 NTD Tires and 1 other type, (maybe off road on a combat rim. It is on the back of the jeep in photos.
2 gas tanks for under the seat. one with a side spout and one that is filled by under the drivers seat.
Gauges look orginal, milage gage got painted by someone other than me
2 ID plates are there. 1 data plate missing
Some rust in the tool box bottom, but not bad.
looks like wrong radiator and carburetor
Looks like orginal Head marked GPW
Block is got the look of the orginal blue but not the matching block # as Serial #.
Engine turns over and looks like good compression
Has a what I believe is a T-90 transmission
Steel seats are “F” marked
Winshield is cracked
Missing horn and air filter
Has new “F” marked canopy frame”

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1946 CJ-2A Kingston, Nh $6000


This appears in good shape.


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1948? M-38? Fountain, CO **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1000.

This is either mis-titled or is mixtured of parts.

“This is a non running 1948 jeep. I bought it a project. all the parts appear to be there. I no longer have the money or time due to other projects. I want to trade for a Quad of equal value in running condition. Please don’t call before 10 am.”

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1957 FC-150 Moorcroft, WY **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: FC150-FC170-M677 • TAGS: .

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was3500

(01/22/2010) It hasn’t been started in a while.  It looks pretty solid.

“What we have here is a 1957 jeep fc150. It is a 4 cylinder manual transmission. It is complete, but I haven’t tried to start it since I got it. I am pretty sure that cleaning out the carb, putting some oil in the cylinders and fueling it up would do it. There are two places it is rusted through, a small spot under the passenger door and the bed, both easy to fix. Floor boards are solid, interior is complete. The sun has deteriorated the dash, easy to fix There are a number of surface rust spots, a little sandpaper and primer will take care of them. I don’t really want to sell, but I don’t have the time to work on it or a shop to put it in. The last one of these I saw on ebay was totally rusted out, missing parts and apart on a garage floor, the “buy it now” price was $5000. I have it priced at a reasonable $3500.”

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1947 CJ-2A “Lefty” MIddlesex County, NJ **SOLD?**


UPDATE:  This probably sold.  Was priced at $400.

This might not be a bad price.  The body appears a bit rough.

“Not in running condition ! Great for parts or a project vehicle. All original parts including a flathead 4 cyl. motor, T-90 trans. , transfercase, axels & seat frames. Does NOT have a canvas top or doors. Needs to be towed ! Cash only ! Leave your name and a phone number and a best time to call you or I won’t reply.”

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1949 CJ-3A Elmwood Park, Il eBay


Looks good.

“!949 CJ3A for sale. I bought this from a guy in Denver. Wiring was terrible, engine compartment was a fitter’s nightmare. Body off restoration 2008. Only holes in body are the holes that belong there. Painted Potomac Gray w/ Harvard Red wheels. All parts are used Willys (all refinished). New Koker tires and tubes. New instruments- Amp, oil press, temp, fuel. speedo came with car. Rebuilt carb from 2 Carters. Rewired gen’y for 12 V. All new hoses and correct type clamps. All new cloth wiring. Wired for turn signals to rear, but wires are put away. All body hardware in place for canvas top. Lower door channels are not installed, but are included. Missing: wipers, inside mirror, rear seat, battery hold-down bracket. All vacuum lines in place, rear seat mounts are in place. Just rebuilt starter( Bendix). New battery today. New coil today. Car has sat for about a year. Started today and drove. No problem. No leaks. Most seals are new. All fluids have been changed. I’ve been using lead additive. Didn’t take engine apart. Horn is correct tone.I bought this car for $5000, invested approx $6000. I’m selling because I have a ’55 CJ5 for a daily driver, and a ’61 DJ3 for my summer fun car. I will be selling a ’67 CJ5 V6 after trans is replaced (1st gear lost 2 teeth). I haven’t put more than 500 miles on this car. This car will ship almost anywhere in cont’l US for about $650.”

View all the pics on eBay

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1948 CJ-2A Corpus Christi, Tx $1500


UPDATE:  Price dropped to $1500.  New Pics added.

(11/20/09) This is a one of the “lefty” cj-2as, with the spare tire mounted on the driver’s side.  I swear I’ve seen this jeep before, but I can’t find it in my database. This ran before a bunch of work was done on it; and, there is still work left to be done.

“This is a ’48 Willys, it has been parked for over a year. Ran when it was parked. The lights have been converted to 12 volt and it has 15″ rims on it other than that it is original. I removed the wiring to replace it with more original style but have not finished this. The jeep ran good when it was parked, the tranny and transfer case have been completly rebuiltIt and the front shafts have been replaced. it has a one piece windshield frame with the glass cracked. If you want more pics email for them.”


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1948 Jeepster Springfield, Il **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Jeepster • TAGS: , .

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5200.

(06/03/2010) This looks pretty good for the price.

“1948 jeepster new top new curtains, runs good, carburator need a little work.”

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1953 M-38A1 Aransas Pass, TX **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: M-38A1 • TAGS: , , .

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was $6000.

(08/01/2010) This looks nicely restored.

“1953 Willys M38 A1 Jeep good running condition”

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1960 Wagon St. Louis Museum, MO **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Willys Wagons • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was on eBay

(07/16/2010) Here’s a nice wagon, though it’s not exactly museum quality.

“One of the very few remaining unmolested Jeep carryalls in the world!! It is just one of 485 ever built in 1960. This vehicle was sold new near Springfield, Illinois in late 1959. It got repossesed shortly thereafter and remained in storage for years. An auto Museum in Springfield purchased the Jeep in the late 1990s and kept it until the museum closed a few months ago. The vehicle is amazingly solid with an all original interior. It has been painted in it’s original color. We see very little to no evidence of major rust issues. It runs and drives and is a blast. Comes with it’s original 1959 Illinois license plates!!”

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1947 CJ-2A Colmesneil, Tx eBay


UPDATE:  Back on eBay

(02/16/2010) This is a project or parts jeep.

“You are bidding on a 1947 Willys, according to identification of rear end and body style.  The engine is a Ford 6 cyl. and runs well has new starter.  This is a project so it is rough some sheet metal has been replace and the brakes do not work.  Trans seem to be in good shape, transfer case, High Low range and all gears.  Clutch operates fine.  As you can see in pictures no seats only original frames.  Gas tank is removed.  Rear hubs are welded on rears axel shafts but I do have extra shafts that have not been changed.  Frame is in good shape.  Just needs love and attention!  I have no title but will give a bill of sale.  As far as I know it is a Texas vehicle.  No shipping available but I can store as long as needed at no charge.  $ 500.00 due at close balance due in 3 days, cashiers check or money order.”

View all the pics on eBay

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Installing Rack and Pinion Steering on an old Willys (4 hours)

• CATEGORIES: Features • TAGS: .

UPDATE:  Sam has provided some detailed instructions (which will replace mine) and will also be sending some pics when he completes his next installation.

One idea Sam has shared with eWillys readers was the rack and pinion steering modification he has been doing.  He describes this as a pretty straight forward installation that can replace the stock steering in any flattie.  Sam says this takes him about four hours to complete. Pics are forthcoming on this modification.

Sam describes the process as follows:

1) Remove Steering: Take out the existing steering mechanism and the mounting plate.

2) Remove Drag Link: Remove drag link from old box to bell crank

3) Layout Straight Edge: With front wheels straight ahead, use a straight edge  (anything will do, I use a piece of conduit) and lay one end on the passenger side tie rod from the spindle and the other side on the frame rail directly above the drivers side tie rod end at the spindle  This will give you the approximate location for the rack and pinion.  DO NOT USE original box location as this will put the cross link through the engine block.

4) Where to Mount Vega Plate: Take the Vega box mounting plate (The plate Sam uses is this plate from and using a large C-clamp, attach to frame with the top of the plate even with the top of the frame.  This will put the mounting holes in the right place.  You will notice the top two holes are inside the opening of the frame and the third hole is below the frame as it should be.

5) Temporarily Mount Rack: The rear edge of the Vega plate should be ONE inch ahead of the line from the tie rods towards the front of the vehicle.  NOTE….at this point, it is very important to temporarily mount the rack (You may use longer bolts to clear the C-clamp).  Once mounted, move the wheels all the way to the right and make sure you have at least one inch clearance between the cross link from the Rack and the oil pan.  Do the same with turning the wheels to the left.  If you have the proper clearance, you have the right location for the mounting plate for the Rack and Pinion.

6) Weld Plate to Frame: Weld the Vega plate in place and be sure to use the supplied gusset ( I use two of them, as I have found that with one gusset, there is a chance for mount twist under harsh conditions such as four-wheeling……strongly suggest you do the same  grin grin)

7) Attach Rack and Pinion: Bolt the Rack and Pinion in place and attach the cross link to the Rack and with the Rack centered and the wheels dead ahead, mark the cross shaft for cutting allowing for the length of the tie rod end.  Now you may cut, thread, and install the tie rod. The unit Sam uses is this cross steer rack from (that link is dead, but this may be the one).

8) Determine Steering Rod Length: Using the conduit, determine the route from the bottom of your steering column to the Rack and Pinion.  This varies with engine and frame variations but is very simple.  Usually all that is required is to determine if the column needs to be shortened or if a double joint is needed.  At this stage, determine what your shaft is…..splined, D shape, square, etc.  This will determine which joint to use.  If round, (with roll pins) I strongly suggest you modify it to D-shape for strength. Sometimes you have to use TWO  rods from the column to the box.  If so, USE ROD SUPPORTS before and after middle joint.  You can get everything you need from Borgson Joints.  If you choose the shorten your column (to use One Rod) you can can get the necessary seal and bearing from them too.

9) Double Check Everything: Double check everything for tightness and clearance and YOU ARE DONE — smile, have a beer.

This sounds simple and it really is, I’ve done soooo many of them, that I can do it start to finish in four hours.  If anyone still needs help, just call me or Dave and I’ll be more than happy to walk you through it.  The last one I did cost $612.42 for everything,  Somewhat cheaper than regular boxes and a whole lot better looking and steering.

If properly installed, you’ll notice the steering much tighter while driving and capable of easily turning under the weight of even a V8 when parked.

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5 Flatties plus many parts Coos Bay, Or $6000


These are project and/or parts vehicles that I have collected but don’t know when I will be able to restore! Their condition ranges from running but needing restoration, (2), to not running but with most of the parts needed to restore including engines and running gear. 3 have titles and I will supply a bill of sale for the other 2. This will make it possible to acquire a title through a title agency if you like. I’m asking $6000.00 for everything. Reasonable offers considered!

Included are also numerous extra parts including:
1 dash/cowl/ firewall assembly
3 T18 transfer case assemblies
1 T90 transmission assembly
1 dana 30 rear differential
1 dana 25 front differential
7 bottom mount radiators and cores for CJ2A
5 windshield frame assemblies 4 for CJ2A & 1 for CJ3A
4 left fenders
6 right fenders
3 grille assemblies
2 L134 blocks
starters, generators, other odds & ends.
I have more pictures upon request.
This group lot is for sale locally and I reserve the right to cancel this listing at any time!

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1942 GPW Wake Forest, NC **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $7000.

Needs some work still.

“1942 WWII Jeep. Ford Stamped. Rebuilt motor and transmission, brakes. Body needs work. Strong motor.”

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1949 CJ-3A Orleans, Ma $4800


The seller believes this has NOT been restored.  It appears in good condition.

“Never restored original. Good Shape. Driven regulary in the summer. have soft top with doors and various extra parts. Serious inquiries only by phone. No emails. $4800/best offer 508-237-4015

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1947? VEC CJ-2A Inland Empire, Ca $15,000


This is interesting.  It’s a CJ-2A being sold as a 1947, but has a serial number of 28367, which means it should have the tool indents as well.  It could mean the body is a replacement or something else. Or, someone has melded a couple jeeps together.

“The CJ2A is the civilian version of the famous WWII Jeep (known as the MB) from which the term “Jeep” was coined. Of course, there were no new vehicles available during the war, so the civilian versions were first produced in July of 1945 (2 months after V-E day and 1 month *before* V-J day!), As far as Jeeps go though, this body style is the absolute earliest a civilian could purchase.

As you can see, this particular CJ2A has been painted in military colors, and is equipped with military tires.   pristine, restored examples. This particular jeep has obviously been hacked on over the years, although sometimes its hard to tell wether something has been altered somewhere along the line or if its just 1940s technology.”