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My Build — Additional Wiring


Over the weekend I completed the wiring along the engine.  I wanted to hide the wires as much as possible, keep them as organized as possible, and not connect them to the fenders.  Below are pictures of the lines run from the alternator, from the fan assembly (the wiring runs from the fan, over the radiator, and down along the grille to meet with the front light wiring) and then the wiring from the grille along the frame to the cowl.

This is the dual fan setup I purchased from North Coast Peformance, an eBay Power Seller.  I fiberglassed the two fans together and built a metal frame to surround them and attach them to the radiator framework.  This setup included a thermostat that slides snuggly inbetween the radiator fins.  These two 10″ fans cover almost the entire radiator, making it a tight fit.  However, between the aluminum radiator and the fans, I should have no overheating problems.

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1953 CJ-3B La Grande, OR **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5250.

On my way to look at the jeep in Wallowa, I spotted this jeep just outside of La Grande, Or.  Apparently, it is all stock except for the tires, top and brakes.   However, I noticed that the front bumper has been chopped to the width of the frame, so I suspect there might be a few other minor changes as well.

I’ve included several pics below (it was behind a fence, so my image options were limited).

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My Build — Vacuum Hoses


Because the engine I had wasn’t entirely complete, I was unsure how I should run the vacuum lines.  Last time I ran my vacuum lines, I’m pretty sure I guessed — Or, maybe I asked dad.  This time, I consulted google and learned a little bit more about vacuum lines.

First, there seems to be plenty of confusion about whether vacuum lines should run from the intake manifold or from the ports below the carb.  As I understand it, the vacuum from the intake manifold is a little more consistent at or near idle.  However, most stock applications will operate fine from the ports below the carb. Here’s some information about vacuum that I used.  I found some additional explanations, but I seem to have misplaced the links.

The high rise manifold I am using only has one vacuum outlet, so I chose to use that for my powerbrake hose (which I will obviously need to lengthen).  I used the port behind the carb to hook to the th350 governor on the back of the transmission.  I blocked the large port on the front of the carb.  Finally, I hooked the small port on the carb to the distributor.  I figured these were low risk decisions, as all of these are easy to change if I need to make a change.

I didn’t invest a ton of time doing research on this, so if anyone has any other suggestions or info, please add a comment.

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My Build — The Front Driveline Clearance


One issue I’ve put off for a while is the close clearance between the front driveline and the transmission.  Because the TH-350 is so much wider than the standard tranny, the driveline runs very close to the transmission pan. Unfortunately, some of the pics didn’t turn out great, but here’s a few of them.

To improve the clearance, I used a torch to heat up the pan and dent it.  That went well, until I tried to put the pan back onto the tranny.  It turns that a casted piece was now bumping against the pan slightly, keeping the pan from going on correctly.

To fix that problem, I wrapped the transmission in plastic and cut a little hole so the cast piece was sticking out.  The plastic would keep any grinding pieces out of the tranny.  Then I grabbed my grinder and ground down the part.

This worked surprisingly well (meaning nothing went horribly wrong).  The piece ground easily.  The pan fit nicely.  My clearance improved. So,  I sanded and painted the pan and put it back together.  I’ll add an additional pic showing the clearance once I improve the light so it shows up better.

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Four Wheeling Plus in Ellensburg, Wa

• CATEGORIES: Features, News

Four Wheeling Plus owner Ron Dunn Jr. is moving his shop to a smaller location, so he says he has some great deals on a variety of products.  You can learn more from the PNW4WDA website or go to his website.

“Yes I am selling my shop but NO I am not going out of business. I am selling my 6000 square foot shop that is pretty much out in the middle of nowhere and I hope to buy/lease a smaller building in town where I will get more foot and drive up traffic.”

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Race Jeep Rochester, Wa **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A, CJ-3A, Racing • TAGS: , .


This appears to be a parkette racing body.  The front of the frame looks a little twisted.

“Race Jeep for sale. $2000 OBO–This is a great jeep & a great buy… This jeep has no engine, but all running gear included and this is a great addition to any racing team. This is set up for a Buick V6 231 with a 4 speed. It has 44 axels with 538 gears and a good transfer case. We are also including 3 spare Desert Dog tires with wheels in this great price. Please email me at with your information. .”

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Weekend Updates


I was so busy this weekend with my jeep that I delayed my weekend updates until last night.  Unfortunately, just as Poseidon toyed with Ulysses, my web provider appears to enjoy toying with me at times, making access to the site nearly impossible last night.  So, I’ll being provided updates throughout the day today.

1.  The first update is that I’ll be heading north to Seattle tomorrow for a few days.  In the morning I’ll be stopping by Wallowa, Oregon to take a closer look at this old racer.  Then I’ll be swinging by Tigard, Oregon, to pick up the rims Mitch purchased.

2.  Brian sent me some updated pictures on his project, so I’ll be filling in readers on his progress.  He’s taking the entire week off as he’s busy with his dogs all week.

3.  I need to provide updates on my project — I was very busy this weekend completing a variety of finishing touches.

4.  Of course, I need to update the site with the latest jeeps for sale.

But, before I do that, I’m off to play some basketball.  So, stay tuned.

– Dave

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1942 MB Vashon Island, Wa $1700


It isn’t clear to me whether this runs or not.

“1942 Willies Military (Navy) Jeep complete with most original hardware. $1,700 includes extra engine. Ready for restoration.”

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1966 CJ-5 Washougal, Wa $2600


This CJ-5 has got some great extras for jeeping, including posi front and rear, full cage, dual tanks and more.

“CJ 5 Jeep 1966. 4 speed, Chev. sm. blk. 4-sp./ 4 barrell carb. Full roll cage, bimini top. Bucket seats. Tilt wheel, stereo. Possi- front and rear. After market wheels. Headers. Call 503-740-7396 or 360-835-5467”

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1944 MB Seabeck, Wa $3000


This appears to have a later model windshield.  It’s hard to tell much else from the pictures.

“New L head engine and clutch , runs good willing to take offers.”


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Old FC 150? Portland, Or $2495

• CATEGORIES: FC150-FC170-M677, Unusual

My guess is that this is a modified FC 150?   No doubt it’s rare! Maybe It’s the perfect vehicle for that FC collector who has it all.  It sounds as if it runs, but the owner doesn’t have a key?

“Unique vehicle. May be custom built. was told that the running gear was from a 1953 Willys. The seats are from a Volkswagen. The front windshield is movable. Has tow bar attached to the front. 6 volt battery system. Has a swivel arm on the back. 2 front seats. 4 wheel drive. Purchased it with my property and don’t know if it runs. Has never been registered. don’t have a key. The original owner was a hunter and did use this vehicle. Price $ 2495.00 or best offer.”

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1955 CJ-5 Halfway, Or $2999


This early CJ-5, first year of production, appears very stock and in good shape.

“Rare 1955 Willy’s jeep with a flat head 4 cylinder engine. Manual hubs, high low transfer case, & 3 speed transmission. Was grandpas old jeep but after he suffered a stroke the jeep just sat in the garage for years. Now that he’s passed the jeep has become my responsibility & is not a restoration project I have time to complete. The jeep does run! Please call Casey the owner & make an offer @ 541-742-5915 or myself the computer gu-ru for more pictures through the e-mail.”

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My Build — Wiring the Grille


Today I enjoyed a productive day hunting around the local junkyard.  I collected a powerbrake setup, wire plugs, vacuum tubes, manifold connections for the vacuum tubes, gas tank rubber piping, the plastic harness that envelopes the wiring, various knobs, and much more.

One of the things I never liked about my first jeep was the rather messy way I wired it, including the way I ran the wire around the grille.  This time, I have been able to spend more time thinking about how to organize the wiring.  You can see the results below. (yeah, that’s the kitchen table — it was getting chilly outside)

As part of the trip to the junkyard, I wanted to find a headlight switch, and some accompanying switches, that I liked.  Most of the ones I found were cheap plastic or rubber.  After a good deal of searching, I found some real metal knobs on two mid 70s dodge vehicles (truck and a van).

Puzzling through the headlight switch wiring was a bit confusing, because I didn’t have a wiring schematic to follow.  At first I tried hooking up the wires in a few different ways to a battery and a voltage tester, but some of the wires still weren’t working.  After a good deal of searching, I finally found a schematic that was close enough.   I discovered from the schematic that I need to bring in two power sources, one for the headlight power and one for the parking lights/dome light/turn signal power.  Using the schematic,  I was finally able to label the wires for installation.

While searching for a wiring schematic, I came across a design for updating the lighting system using some relays.  As I understand it, for a variety of reasons, the amount of power that finally gets to the lights, especially under idle conditions, is lower than 12 volts, causing the lights to dim.  Using relays and the wiring schematic show should improve the situation.  Here’s a discussion about it.

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Wrangler Baja Race Jeep — Arizona **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Racing, Unusual • TAGS: .

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $14,000

“Wrangler built to race in the desert. This Jeep has a long winning history but used very little the last 10 years.
Built to be Score legal. Race built AMC 401. Art Carr AMC 400 Turbo Automatic transmission. Dana 60 rear end, 456 gears, & Summers full floating axles. Mastercraft seats, 5 point harness. Flame-out fire ext. system. 32 gallon JAZ fuel cell. 5 brand new Pro Comp 35 X 12.50 X 15 tires.Comes with spare AMC 401 motor, spare raditator, tires & wheels, spare shocks, several sets of leaf springs, drive shafts, and another 4 boxes full of spare parts. $14000, OR TRADE FOR ??????”


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1971 Jeepster Bothell, Wa $5600

• CATEGORIES: Jeepster

For some reason, this jeepster attracted my attention.  I’ve seen other nice jeepsters, but the prices on them are normally much higher.

“1971 Jeep, Jeepster Commando.  Engine: Upgraded from original Jeep 225 v6 to a direct bolt in Buick 231 v6 HEI. Excellent power and fuel economy. New tires. Transmission: Automatic TH400 (original), Power steering, Power brakes, Repainted original Mohave Metallic Brown, Seats recovered( some wear), custom matching door panels, Last year of the CJ5 type front clip on the Jeepster, 7,903 Jeepsters were made in 1971, fantastic collector/investor vehicle, Run super strong and drives excellent, completely ready to go, incredible condition. Call Steve at (425)478-3330”

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1954 CJ-3B Maple Valley, WA **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2500.

“Clean all original with PTO winch, new warn hubs, runs good.”

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My Build — Oops, My Alternator Bolt is a Bit Too Long

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit, Features

Well, the best laid plans… While puzzling through the charging system, I decided I needed to pull off my alternator so I could determine exactly which kind of alternator I had (Delco 10SI 63 Amp — Determine your GM alternator).  As I pulled out the long bottom bolt upon which the alternator pivots, I discovered a problem: There wasn’t enough room to pull out the bolt.  Even after clipping a hole in my electric radiator framework, I still ran directly into the radiator (see the pic to the right).  Fortunately, I discovered can undo the radiator, shift it somewhat, and then can pull out the bolt far enough to let the alternator slip away.  So, at least I have a method, though elegant it isn’t!

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1948 CJ-2A Hillsboro, OR **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3750

I’m not a fan of the paint job, but everything else looks in pretty solid shape.

“1948 WILLYS JEEP CJ WITH ORIGINAL 4 Cylinder MOTOR. Has tow bar and game rack. Runs great. Mechanically sound. Everything works. Has been in storage and only taken out occassionally to keep it running.”html

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1955 CJ-5 Shady Cove, Or $500


It’s a parts jeep, but with new springs and CJ-7 disc brakes, it’s likely a great deal for the right person.

“’55 Willys “round fender” CJ-5,Body & frame with CJ7 disc brake axles, new rancho springs,tow bar, rolling chasis is towable, $500.00 / OBO – Contact Jim @ 541-292-4623 or email – additional photos by email on request – Tnx”

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1948 CJ-2A Yreka, CA **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3500.

I’m trying to figure out what color this jeep is.  I’m not sure.

“1948 Willys CJ2A, it has a 302 engine with toyota axles.3500.00 or best offer please call for more info”

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My Build — Altering My Headers


I decided yesterday to redo my headers to give the muffler a better approach angle. After searching online about how to properly do this, I came up empty.  So, I made it up as I went.

The first step required removing the headers’ collectors, because I would have to bend each pipe individually to get the right angles.  Since I had previously sawed off the headers’ triangular connection piece, I was also going to have to reattach it.

Here’s the passenger side header with the collector sawed off.  Note how the pipes angle right into the front roll cage mount.  You can also see the bar I inserted into each pipe to help bend the heated pipe downwards.

Now, with the pipe inserted, I proceeded to heat up the lower pipe with Dad’s oxy/acet setup.  I tried my best to heat up each pipe at the bend and then bending the pipe downward carefully.  Below you can see two of the three pipes bent.

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Fiberglass Race Body and Desert Dog/Coop Tires Eatonville, Wa **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Body Parts, Features, Racing, Tires and Rims • TAGS: , , .


If you are doing some PNW racing, here’s some good stuff for you.  Plenty of tread on those tires.  The body comes with fenders, hood and grille.

“Bobcat willys flat fender race body complete with seperate fenders hood and grill. Has removalable tailgate and no floor. Very good condition.$700.00

4 co-op front tires. 2 are brand new, 2 have 1 race and 1 spare. 10 desert dogs 2 are brand new and the rest are 60% and 85-90%. $1000.00 for all. Must take all tires. Will not separate.”

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1951 CJ-3A Oklahoma City, Ok $5000


This jeep has some great upgrades, but no headlights?  I guess it’s been sitting for some time.

“This little Jeep is almost ready to go hunting or off roading. Needs some work, but has a lot to offer. Buick 3.8L V6, K&N filter, Custom Headers, 350 Auto Tranny, Warn Overdrive, Lock-Rights Dana 25 front and Dana 44 rear, 5.88 rear, Disc Brakes on the front, Holly Pro-Injection, 20 gallon fuel cell, new bigger heater with defroster ducts, cloth S-10 seats, tow bar, off road rack, 2 speed winch 8000#, new radiator.”

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1951 CJ-3A Colorado Springs, Co $500


This looks pretty good for a $500 jeep.  It looks like it might be a M-38, though the driver’s side is missing the indents.

“51 Willies jeep-has title-no running-95 % complete-ready to restore or great parts vehicle-call for info or address-steve @ 648-7623”

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1980 CJ-5 Arvada, CO **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2950. 

“Jeep, 1980 Army (NATO) jeep with 17,000 miles 8,000 lb. winch, new canvas top and new mud and snow tires 6 cylinder, Army auto hubs. Runs great I got it directly from the army at the old Lowery bombing range when they shut it down $2,950.00