To Top

New Comments Subscription System


There were a few strange quirks to the old comments subscription system so I have installed a new one.

What does this mean to you?

1)  Re-subscribe: You might have to re-subscribe to those posts that you were previously following (sorry about that).  One short cut for that is to sort your incoming emails by ewillys and then click on the post links to get there.

2) No Commenting necessary to subscribe to a comment: You no longer have to comment on a post to subscribe to it.

How does it work?

When you want to follow comments about a post, you scroll to the bottom of the whole post or click on the comments link at the top of a post.  Then you’ll see two options for receiving comments on the post via email.

Either (1) make a comment,  click the “notification box”, and then click the submit button to submit your comment OR don’t make a comment, enter your email address and click on the “subscribe” button.

If you have any questions, email me at

To Top

Buick v6 question … Optimal oil pressure?


UPDATE: I had installed this adjustable pressure regulator from TA performance when I built the engine.  Today I attempted to adjust the regulator to lower my pressure, but it was already adjusted as far out as I could adjust it.  So, took it out and replaced it with the original stock spring and plug.  Sure enough, the pressure dropped to 50psi on idle, though it still climbs to 70psi when revving the engine.

Maybe this is related to all buicks and not just the buick v6?? I’m wondering if my oil pressure is too high, which is causing a couple problems, such as oil dripping out the dipstick hole where the dipstick meets the block.

It seems to me my that on my old 225 odd fire, the pressure was around 40psi and would drop as I accelerated (which was a problem, that finally resolved itself when my engine blew up after about 3 years of good use).

Now, it sticks solidly at 70psi and that’s without a high volume oil pump.  I have a concern that the oil will be spraying rather than dribbling out the mains, which might cause some problems as well? (I read that somewhere)  I can resolved the problem easily by putting  weaker spring in .. I should have one somewhere.

Any thoughts?  I tried to find something on the internet.  The only think I found was that a normal 225 v6 runs about 40psi.

– Dave

To Top

Builds: Brian creates a new sending unit

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features

For all the customizations I’ve done, I have to say I was still surprised, delightfully so, to receive this update from Brian about his metamorphasis of a GM sending unit into a Willys tank.  Maybe it is just me, but it simply never occurred to me to try something like this.  Moreover, as I turned Brian’s work into a post, I learned a great deal about gas tank sending units.  Thanks Brian!

A quick note. After doing some research, I discovered one of the most common reasons for the older gas gauges to stop working correctly is a bad ground.  So, if you are having problems with your old gas gauge, check the ground at the gauge and/or sending unit.

Take it away Brian:

I have tackled a variety of planned tasks on my CJ-3B, but as with any project, I’ve run across some unexpected issues as well.  My gas tank sending unit is a perfect example.

*** DISCLAIMER:  Before I begin, please be advised that when doing modifications to a gas tank it would be prudent (understatement) to drain and dry the gas tank.  I hear gasoline is very explosive!!! ***

Prior to installing my gas tank, I decided to use an ohmmeter to test my sending unit to make sure it was in good condition.  Unfortunately, I connected my ohmmeter and discovered my unit was dead.  So, I thought this was a perfect chance to install a modern sending unit.

Btw, you can visit the 1945gpw website to get a nice overview about how to use an ohm meter to trouble shoot your old Willys sending units.

The stock unit on my CJ-3B is 40-0 ohm’s (which means the ohm meter would read 40 ohms when full and 0 ohms when empty).  As I am upgrading my gauges to auto meter gauges, I had to make sure I selected a gauge that would work.  There were four different gauges to choose from:  90-0, 30-0, 8-73, and 33-240 ohms.  Note that the last two gauges are backwards for our purposes — the gauges would have read full when empty, and empty when full (if they worked at all). Also with my new gauge, I felt I would run into a problem with the ground, so I decided to replace the sending unit and make it work right.


I had replaced a GM in-tank pump and sending unit on a friend’s truck and found a GM sending unit would fit though the tank opening of a Willys.  So, with that in mind, I started by disassembling the old Willys unit. First, I removed the sending unit and the sending unit base from the gas tank.  Next, I separated the sending unit from the base as I will be reusing this base (with some modifications) using my drill press.


With that apart, I turned my attention to the GM Assembly. I removed the sending unit off the GM assembly by cutting the tube up high. I went over to Mick C. and we machined a plug for the old unit (a machinist is a good friend to have!). This GM unit is 90-0 ohms, a perfect match to the Auto Meter 105-2641 gage. It is also internally grounded, note the two wires.

Here is the unit assembled. The new plug had a hole in the center so I could run the new gas line through it.  Also, the plug had a hole for the wires as well.   I drilled three holes around the radius of the sending unit base and welded the plug in place. You can see the welds in the image below.

Note the J-B Weld. There is about 1/8″-3/16″ between the top of the plug and top of the unit. I used J-B Weld to pot and seal the unit. J-B weld ( claims to be resistant to gas (from the website:  “It’s strong as steel and impervious to water, gasoline, chemicals, and acids.”). DO NOT USE SILICONE!!!

[Editor’s note:  Mitch mentioned months ago that he had a problem using J-B Weld to seal an old gas tank.  Given the claims by J-B, maybe Mitch’s problem was more an adherence to the old tank rather than J-B itself?  Any thoughts Mitch?  This should be a good test of J-B and gasoline. ]

Now, I had to adjust the float to work correctly with the new unit.  I cut the arm at the first bend from the float then turned it 90 degrees. I also cut the float down an inch.


Note: there is a pattern to the bolt circle on the old unit. Index the sending unit on assembly so the float will clear the internal wall in the tank. The wall runs across side-to-side; the float will have to do the same.

Adjusting the float was easy.  I just held it to the top of the tank and bent the arm as needed.

One good thing about this modern sending unit is the rheostat can be replaced by removing two screws. You would have to get another one from a junk yard but can easily be rebuilt.
This works really well …  I love these types of projects.


To Top

1943 MB Williamsburg, NM **SOLD**


1943_mb_williamsburgUPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3000

It doesn’t look in good condition. No additional information on the condition.

“Will trade for 4 wheel drive. Big enough to pull 4 horse trailer.”

To Top

1949 CJ-3A St. Paris, Ohio $8000


1949_cj3a_stparisI’d like to see some more pics of this jeep.  It looks good in this pic and sounds like there have been some interesting mods.

“Work Accomplished and Modifications ENGINE: 302 Ford Bored .040 over, balanced, Competition Cam with Roller Rockers. (rebuilt by Engine Performance – April 02).  CLUTCH: 11” Hydraulic. TRANSMISSION: T-18, 4 Speeds with Granny Low.  TRANSFER CASE: Spicer Model 18 gears in a 20 Case. (rebuilt April 02)
OVERDRIVE: Warn.  FRONT DIFFERENTIAL: Dana 44 Scout w/ARB locker and 538 Gears.  REAR DIFFERENTIAL: Dana 44 w/ARB Locker and 538 Gears. ELECTRICAL: Wiring Harness Designed by Owner. Relays switching ground Operate Accessories.  FUEL SYSTEM: Dual Tanks, Each Having an Electric Pump Backup
BRAKES: Power 4 Wheel Disc, Chevett Booster w/ Corvette Master Cylinder STEERING: GM Power Steering Box with GM Pump.  HEATERS: Two, One Under Dash and One Under Seat, Designed and Fabricated By Owner.  DEFROSTER SYSTEM: Designed Using Gas Furnace Burners.  BODY: Original, Dipped and Repaired With New Metal and Sandwiched with Rhino Lining.  PAINT: PPG Deltron Base Coat Clear Coat

This Willys was purchased from Craig Colorado in 1980 and had a complete restoration at that time. The 302 was installed ahead of the original T-90 Transmission, a Warn Overdrive was added and the remaining drive train was original. In 1996 another restoration was completed to include the items listed above. The restorations, fabrications and modifications were accomplished by the owners.”

To Top

1948 CJ-2A Beaverton, MI **SOLD**


1946_cj2a_beavertonUPDATE: **SOLD** Was $750

This looks in pretty poor shape.

Selling my 46 Flattie, just not enough time or money at the moment so it’s gotta go. Only bought this this spring so I haven’t accomplished much. This will also include a partially torn down Buick 225 Odd-Fire V-6. Motor had a bent push rod and has sat for some time. All parts except distributor come with it though, I may be able to get a distributor if that’s the selling point. What you see is what you get with this one, no seats, cooling system, or wiring. From the middle of the cowl back is all torch cut 1/8″ plate, not nice to look at but would take a beating off road. There is a trans, transfercase, and axles present but I have not checked them out and it is to be assumed that they need rebuilt. Best part is this thing has a clear title in my name.”

To Top

1950 CJ-3A Phoenix, Az $1500


The price looks good.  But … check out that rear bumper. That’s a round behind!

“1950 CJ3A Willys with original 4 cylinder flat head engine. Rebuilt. New master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake lines. Call Zeke at 480-560-6582”


To Top

1946 CJ-2A Elk Mound, WI **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $400

“for sale is a vintage willys jeep not shur what year mostly compleate great for parts have many other willys jeep parts also no title.”


To Top

1948 CJ-2A Moscow, Id **SOLD**


1948_cj2a_moscowUPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4500

Only one pic of this jeep.  This looks in good shape.

“$4500 Firm. All original, but have custom canopy. Was garaged for last 28 yrs.”

To Top

1953 CJ-3B Xenia, Oh $4300


1953_cj3b_xeniaAs Brian noted when he sent this link to me, the decimal must be misplaced.  I think only habit it holding that body together.

“4cyl over head vavle engine. dis-engaging front hubs (lock-out). Change over 12 volt system. Org jeep seats. runs – needs tlc”

To Top

1959 FC-150 Camden, MA **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: FC150-FC170-M677

UPDATE:  Was $2900. **SOLD**

“Willys Jeep FC150 1959 or later. Not sure of the exact year as the vin # is missing. Most of the work that has been done was by the prior owner and I have not driven it on the road since purchasing. Driving it in the yard all seems to work except the brakes need attention  ….. Needs tee installed at master cyl. for brake lights. I have the tee and switch. The wipers do not work. All glass is intact with some clouding on lower windshield. The passenger side seat has had the mounts moved so it is not attached as it should be. The emergency brake is not hooked up.”


To Top

A Budget Friendly E-Brake

• CATEGORIES: Features, Parts

A reader named Robert noted my interest in an alternative emergency brake.  He purchased the one to the right and says it looks pretty good, though he still needs to install it.  While this isn’t exactly what I’m seeking, it is a great price at $4.95.

“Can be made to fit many applications. Originally designed as brake cables on Military trailers and Jeeps Unused/Unissued. Handle style and color may vary.”

View the brake at Coleman’s Military Surplus

To Top

1948 CJ-2A Honea Path, SC **SOLD**


1948_cj2a_honeapath1UPDATE: **SOLD**  Was $3000. 

I like the old school slot mags on this jeep.  The body appears to be in very good condition, at least on the outside.

“1948 willys jeep cj2a four cylinder three speed four wheel drive mag wheels 31×10.5 tires bucket seats nice paint rollbar bikini top”

To Top

1946 CJ-2A Dudley, Ma $20,000


UPDATE:  Not surprisingly, this hasn’t sold ….

This sounds like a VEC that has a Dodge Cab on it?  No pics yet, but it sounds … unusual.


To Top

Updated Site


ewillys_homeAs you can see,  a couple days ago I updated the site design.  I had several reasons for doing this.  (1) the drop down menus were sucking, (2) the drop down menus wouldn’t allow me to do the top sliders like I tested (3)  the previous design was having some problems in Internet Explorer, and (4) the logo design wasn’t well designed for t-shirts, merchandise and an expansion beyond the web.

The next step in the process is to go back through all my posts and reorganize them into new sections, so changes will be ongoing …

– Dave

To Top

Reader Question: The size of CJ-2A blocks

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A, Features

A reader asked about the original size of CJ-2A hood blocks.  A quick search revealed this was a forum topic on the CJ-2A PagePlease visit the forum to learn more.  I tried to create a quick link to the picture in the forum, but the forum won’t let me, so here’s a copy of the drawing submitted and a great pic of a 1945 CJ-2A which shows the blocks really well.  There’s also a CAD drawing that you can find in the forum as well that should help with the blocks.

The photo was posted to the CJ-2A page forum by the forum moderator Sean and the drawing was done by Joe DeYoung.


And here’s the pic and caption of the ’45 willys submitted to the CJ-2A forum by the forum moderator Sean  [This is a 1945 photo of a new 1945 CJ2A (photo courtesy Bill Oakes)]:


To Top

1947 CJ-2A Queen Creek, Az **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3500.

It’s a bit pricey for a project, but it does have one of those rare back extenders on it.

“This is a project vehicle I’m not able to finish. Civilian model, All parts included; Pickup bed, trailor hitch, 1/2 metal cab w/ doors, all glass. Asking $3,500 please call with any questions”


To Top

1948 CJ-2A Coarsegold, Ca **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1400.

It’s a bit rough.  I can’t tell if there’s just some surface rust or if it is worse than that.

Selling my 1948 Will’y Jeep with a 1945 engine in it. It runs! It has been converted to 12 volt and has the original fold down windshield. Please call for further details or to come take a look!”



To Top

1946 CJ-2A Joshua, Fl $1900


It appears pretty stock …

“1946 willys cj2a jeep. runs and drives. original 4 cylinder engine. has been changed to a 12 volt from a 6 volt. tow bar. has top frame but no canvas. great hunting vehicle goes anywhere. frame is in good shape but body has some rust. no title. (817)903-7474 $1900.00”


To Top

1952 CJ-3A Penn Valley, Ca $4500


The console looks a little unusual. I’d like a closer look to see what they have done. It appears to go underneath the seats.

“Very nice 1952 WILLYS JEEP, NO RUST,NO DENTS, Runs Great, New starter, New Fuel pump, New rebuilt carb, New Extra set tires,P/S, New Rag top in box, TOW BAR, Light bar,,Extras,Fold down windshield
Original Engine, JOE @ 530 432 1020”


To Top

1946 CJ-2A Surgoinsville, Tn $5200


UPDATE:  Pictures added and price dropped.

“Cj2a 46 willys jeep-new on the jeep { 5 tires w/only 100 miles, headlights, taillights, running lights, brake lines, master cyl, front drive shaft, switch over to 12 volt system, runs well, 4wheel drive high and low works well, lock-out hubs, back seat , roll bar, driver’s seat been moveed back for large driver—jeep body is good shape–i drive it in town and to hunting land to pull mower with—just don’t need it much anymore–it still can use some work—asking $3700.00—clear title—i can be reached at 423-534-1880 after 5pm”


To Top

1947 CJ-2A Saratoga, Ca $3000


1947_cj2a_saratogaUPDATE:  Still Available

It appears the tailgate has been eliminated.  Apparently, this sports an Olds V-6.   I haven’t seen a buick v6 with the alternator swapped to the driver’s side, though I suppose it is possible.

“All steel body, Olds V6. All stock running gear. New battery, rebuild carb ( 08-09) P/S. Manual brakes. Runs fine. Full roll cage. Old AM/FM/cassete and CB. (speakers are in a box, not installed.) Warn winch (not in photos) now mounted. Doors included. New spare. 408-988-0668”

To Top

1969 International Harvester Trinidad, CA **SOLD**


1969_ih_trinidadUPDATE: **SOLD** Was $975

This looks like a very good deal on a vintage looking IH.

“1969 IH Travelall 1100 (1/2 ton 2×4). Runs, drives, registered. AC, PS, 392 V8, 4 spd, and limited-slip type differential. Straight and solid. No door mirrors. Will consider parting-out. Trades considered ( willys mb cj jeep ford gpw dodge wc m37 kaiser m715 international scout vw beetle thing buick riviera honda yamaha suzuki kawasaki street bike ).  Email or call Drew at 601.2468. Please make certain to reference the truck so that I can discern legitimate email from spam.”

To Top

Reader Builds: A reader tows home a part’s jeep

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features

UPDATE:  There was some interest in the Capstan winch from David’ part’s jeep that I featured the other day.  Here’s some additional views of it.

You can still find parts for Capstan winches here, though they are out of the Capstan kits (which cost $2,650).  Brian also runs a ‘Capstan’s for sale’ page, but appears all sold out at the moment.   And here’s a little nautical history of the Capstan winch from wikipedia.  And here’s some info from the CJ-3B page on the Ramsey Capstan Winch, including some pics of the brochure.






Continue reading

To Top

1947 CJ-2A Yuma, Co **SOLD**


UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $8500

This appears to have been carefully rebuilt.  Looks good.

“Rebuilt power train (134 engine, 3spd transmission, transfer case, differentials) and suspension, tilt steering wheel, roll bar, custom bumpers, digital gauges, more pictures available”