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1942 GPW Susanville, Ca $2400

• CATEGORIES: GPW (Ford MB) This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Update:  Price dropped slightly to $2400

I suspect the body on this jeep isn't worth restoring, but it still a running gpw for a reasonable price.

"Must sell, I have a 1942 willys jeep with 16,000 miles on it. I cant confirm the milage as it has a new speedomiter that I havent hooked up, have cable havent done it. It is a 1942 GPW, with the original Go-Devil engine, does not use oil and runs great. New tires, brakes are good (for this old of a jeep), it is an original flat fender the tub has been glassed. The body is very straight and the last paint job it got is marginal. I do not have the time or money to restor it as I had planned. I have driven it around locally since I bought it a year and a half ago and never had any problems at all. I really hate to sell this jeep but have to, my loss is your gain. You may call me at 530-569-0524, I will consider a trade for a jeep Cherokee in good condition."

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/801717370.html 

 
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1946 VEC CJ-2A New Jersey $1000

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Here’s an early CJ-2A with the column shift. The seller doesn’t not indicate whether it runs or not, but it looks whole — it looks like it might run.  Obviously, the hood and windshield are a bit rough.

“For sale is a 1946 Willys with early column shift.”

 
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1954 CJ-3B Tacoma, Wa $6500

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3B This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: This was for sale for the same price in July, but the jeep was brown (as you can see in the pic on the right). Now the jeep is gray as seen in the left.

Given that the body is a fiberglass, which is very hard to find for CJ-3Bs (actually impossible is a better word), I'm positive this was produced in the 80s or early 90s.  Looks to be in great shape.

"This 1954 3-B Highhood powered by a Chev 383 stroker V-8 and 4-Speed transmission.  warn 12,000 lb winch.  36×14.50×16.5 swampers. dana 44 front axle. dana 18 transfercase.  Fiberglass Body …."

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/802615382.html 

 
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1942 MB Naches, Wa **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: MB This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was 4950.

“My friend is selling his 1942 Wily’s Jeep. it has a 6 cylinder over head valve Hurricane engine. All suspention springs have been redone. Rides nice! newer radiator. tune up, carb rebuild. good tires, licensed. clear title. Runs Great! No rust! This is a turn key jeep with Lots of power. I can send you pictures of anything you like to see on it. Very cool Jeep. hinden head lights from the military. 12 volt system. Not stock, just improved. turn key starter. nice bucket seats. the price is obo, a bit anyway.”

 
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1946 CJ-2A Rigby, ID **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $9500.

“1946 CJ2A: Frame off restoration with 4200 miles. New 1967 Buick 225 V-6/300 hp. Boxed in frame for winch support. Titanium alloy “Rock Crusher” rims. Gas filled guages. Custom built 15 gallon fuel tank under back seat. Jeep Wrangler seats. All original and completely rebuilt runnung gear. Best top and doors. Original and rebuilt Willys heater that will keep you warm. Warn overdrive and hubs. Custom top mounted pedals. Chevrolet steering box and tilt wheel from 1967 Camero. Much more info upon request. $9500.00 or close to it.”

 
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Stainless Steel on Suzuki Chassis **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Other 4x4s, stainless/jewels, Unusual This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: Was on eBay.

“JEWELS SEMI STAINLESS WILLYS.  JEEP IS SET ON 1987 SUZUKI CHASSIS HAS 4 CYL MOTOR, 5 SPEED TRANI, AND IS FOUR WHEEL DRIVE.EVERY THING WORKS AND MOTOR RUNS VERY GOOD. BODY HAS STAINLESS TAILGATE (VERY RARE),STAINLESS ROLL BAR,TIRE CARRIER. TOP IS IN VERY GOOD CONDITION ALSO HAS SIDE DOORS. HAS SPRAY IN LINER INSIDE OF TUB.ODOMETER READS 883 MILES I DO NOT KNOW IF THIS IS CORRECT OR NOT BUT BY THE CONDITION I WOULD SAY ITS GOTTA BE FAIRLY CLOSE.”

 
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1956 CJ-6 Fort Worth, TX **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-6 This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6950.

1956 is the second year of production, where 2500 were made. During the first year, only 581 were produced. So, this is a pretty early model. Looks in good shape.  These don’t come for sale very often.

“Straight-no rust * Runs Great *134 CI 4-cyl * All new Painless Wiring *New Gauges *New Tires *New Shocks *New Battery *Clean Royal Craftsman Removable Top and Doors **In the city or in the country-its a blast to drive”

 
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1953 CJ-3B **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3B This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

(SEE COMMENTS)  It appears a great deal of meticulous work has gone into this ‘restoration’ and it looks nice.  However, this doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to me.  If you are trying to make jeep that’s just come off the battlefield of WWII and you are going to invest the time and energy, why not do this with an earlier model such as an MB (that really did come off the battlefield) or it’s closest cousin the CJ-2A?

“98K original miles, 6 volt, all stock and original, new engine (it purrs) with maybe 5K on it, rebuilt transmission, rebuilt brakes, fresh upholstery on the original seats, a few dents and dings. Its turn key, needs nothing, starts, runs and drives excellent for a near 60 year old Jeep. Built to look like it just rolled off the battlefield in WWII, extended bed, Flat military green paint,loaded with ammo boxes, vintage tools, military surplus stuff, canvas etc.”

**SOLD*

 
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1947 CJ-2A Nashville, TN **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4000.

“jeep has a newly rebuilt motor and i have hardly driven it. it has a spare gas can and a tow bar on the front. the body is in fair shape. this would be a great project jeep. cashiers check or cash only please.”

 
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My Rebuild — The Windshield

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

The first time I tried to fit the windshield onto the body last year, it was too narrow to fit correctly.  At that point, I put it aside to deal with later. 

Well, yesterday I decided that now was 'later'.   After playing around with the windshield some, I realized a couple things:  1) Someone had welded a crack on the driver's side leg, so I had to grind that down a bit to help it fit; 2) The cowl of the fiberglass body was not shaped quite right, so I would have to 'trim' some of the rubber gasket to get the window to fit (the rubber needs replacing anyway, so I hacked it for test purposes — as can be seen in the closeup photo below); 3) Even with the rubber hacked, the windshield likely won't fit as tight as I'd like, but I can live without a tight seal as I doubt I'd be driving in much rain anyway.  

With those decisions/concessions made, I had to choose where to drill the holes for the windshield mounts.  The key for me was to get the right tilt to the windshield angle, making sure the horizontal part of the legs looked pretty level and making sure that when the windshield was tipped forward that it would rest level (something that I couldn't do after mounting the windshield to my first jeep).  Finally, I had to make sure the windshield was back on the cowl far enough so that the windshield frame binders could be mounted to work correctly (I'm calling them binders here, but what do you call the two devices that pull down and secure the windshield?). 

Another task I tackled today was the brake pedal.  I took a brake pedal assembly out of a junk yard '90 cherokee.  Originally, I had the pedals all set up for a clutch and brake pedal.  After getting that setup complete, I changed my mind to go with an automatic. With that decision, I chose to get a wider automatic brake pedal.  Fortunately, the cherokee's also came with automatics (and hence automatic brake pedals) and they used the same brake/clutch assembly system, so all I had to get was a brake pedal and resize it.  So, if I do decide to switch to a stick/clutch, changing out the brake pedals and adding the hydraulic clutch mechanism (which I already have) will be a snap.