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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: **Still Available**
(11/07/2016) Looks like it has some rear hubs.
“1951 Willyz Jeep with original motor that has been overhauled. Heavy duty radiator as well.
Gauges installed, new seats and steering wheel. Original wheea with new tires.
Runs great!”
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/snw/6141377877.html
UPDATE **SOLD** Was $8500.
(08/09/2016) Seller just repainted the jeep. It includes an overdrive. Looks like a Meyer half cab.
“This 1958 Willys CJ6 was my dads he got it in the 70 & use it just for hunting. It’s a three speed w/an overdrive. Its all original with sum New Parts> Dashboard, Speedometer & Gauges, locking Glove Box W/charger for phone etc. Seats, New brakes & Wheel Cylinders, Master Cylinder, Carburetor, New Winch. The paint job was done w/spray paint cans about a 100 cans 4 different colors & under coating.
I have all the old part that will go with the buyer.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2400.
(04/25/2017) Has a rear PTO. Needs some works, but runs and drives.
“Early production (or so I am told) CJ2A Jeep, has a power take off (PTO) on it too! 3 speed stick, 4 wheel drive hi/low range. It runs! It drives! It stops! That is about it though… It carries heavy “patina” on the body/tub which is to say it is very rusty-you can see the ground through the floor… Could be the basis for some sort of crawler project. Certainly could be restored as it appears that any part you want is available either used or new /reproduction, even complete bodies can be had. Depends on how much money you want to spend. I have done the following: new soft brake lines, new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, new radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, spark plug wires. It is not street legal at this time primarily because none of the lights work. With some brake lights and new tires you could drive it as it is I think. If you want something to bomb around on your own property you wouldn’t have to do a thing. One should not think about trying to drive it home in it’s current state, should be trailered. Comes with two extra sets of axles/differentials and a set of extra leaf springs too. I have the original selectmatic locking hubs and it has vintage Warn locking hubs on it now.’
UPDATE: Price dropped to $4500.
“1946 Jeep Willys with a cj7 frame built 350 with 31″ tires custom exhaust headers an intake possible trade depending on what u got looking for a bigger mud toy or nice truck to drive”
https://flint.craigslist.org/cto/6130673425.html
A project.
“Willys jeep. 1940s vintage complete minus front wheels. Engine looks complete. oil pan is included but not installed. Wyoming vehicle so minimal rust.”
https://wyoming.craigslist.org/pts/6142049484.html
Lots of mods.
“Does not run has a v8 need work 2000 have title”
https://portland.craigslist.org/yam/cto/6142294230.html
No obvious rust.
“1948 Willy Jeep
Price: $9999.99 (You know…$10,000 and I give you change)
Very nice toy. I have rebuilt it about 95% “original” with only slight “modern” aspects. Runs and looks good, but NOT a museum piece. This is a “runner”.
This unit was issued civilian, but I chose to rebuild it as military.
I just don’t have time to play with it much anymore. Funny how work gets in the way of…. Fun?
Let me know if you would like to have a look.
NO checks, money orders or “sad stories”. Cash only.
Drop me an email.”
https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/6136480856.html
UPDATE **SOLD** Was $1895.
“Hello, I have a CJ3B project for sale, It includes the body as seen in photos, new frame with springs. This is a new frame (a reproduction from Acme Jeep Parts) not a sandblasted old frame. I have installed Saginaw steering using Jeep Parts from a 1971 Jeepster Commando, is a very good installation, and a trailer hitch make from 3/8 plate, so it is plenty strong and looks nice. Also, the front bumper is made out of 1/4 steel plate that I had bent to look like a stock bumper, so it is really strong over a stock bumper. This is a very good start for a project, and I also have other Jeep parts for sale if interested in building a solid Jeep project. This project comes with the original VIN plate for registration, but this project is being sold with a bill of sale only. I can deliver this Jeep within 100 miles for fuel costs both ways.”
UPDATE II: Add are some instructions (thanks Terry!) for installing DJ-3A seats:
======================
ORIGINAL POST UPDATE MAY 2017: I’ve added a couple pics at the end and included a discussion on the extra channel DJ-3As have.
Last fall, when disassembling Rusty, I thought it was odd that the 2/3 1/3 seats had been mounted on wood blocks. I assumed this had been done by the previous owner to raise the seats.
Yesterday, I discovered that Patterson’s passenger seat was loose. When I examined it more carefully, I learned that it was loose because one of the wood blocks under the seat had broken. I can only conclude that all DJ-3A’s with 2/3 1/3 seats were mounted on wood blocks? Or maybe only the early ones?
The photo below shows the passenger seat tilted forward. The front of it is mounted in a way that allows it to pivot forward. The mounts are bolted through a piece of wood, then through a piece of cloth, through the body, and into a welded bolt. The rear of the seats rests on the two mounts at the back of the well. The long piece of wood is a well-seasoned (at least 45 years old) and stained piece of oak that will work perfect for replacement blocks.
Unlike the passenger seat, the rear of the driver’s seat rests on two posts; slide onto the ends of the posts are rubber feet. Those rubber feat sit on blocks of wood also. 
A close up of the rubber foot. The hole is 1 inch in diameter, so I ought to be able to find rubber feet to replace these tired ones.
This shows how great the floor on this DJ is.
Another angle. Blocks 1, 4, 5, and 6 were the same size. Blocks 2 and 3 were larger and screwed down to the body. The rear 2/3’s seat rested atop those blocks.
I’ve drilled cut and drilled the blocks. They are ready for installation. I plan to add a thin piece of rubber under the blocks. Once I remove the rusted end of one bolt that broke, I’ll be able to reinstall the seats.
If you take a look at wood block #1 and block #6 there’s something curious. While the body area under wood block is similar to a CJ-3A, the body area under #6 has an additional channel (btw, we’ve yet to document any under DJ-3A body channels with wood in them).
This is the passenger side with the extra channel and a welded bolt.
No channel on the driver’s side even though there is a bolt welded there. 
Finally, the DJ-3As used wood blocks between the frame and transmission crossmember.
Another thing I got accomplished recently was the rebuilding of Rusty’s T-96 transmission. It’s been a couple decades since I’ve rebuild a T-90, but I think a person could follow a T-90 side shift guide when rebuilding the T-96 (I didn’t think of this until after I was done — instead I used an old rebuild manual from the late 60’s that has rebuilds of 35 different styles of transmissions). Once again, I thought I had more pics, but I didn’t. So, this isn’t a step-by-step overview.
I took this photo at the beginning of the tear-down to remember which way the speedometer gear should face. The lack of a transfercase is part of what makes this rebuild different from most other jeep transmissions.
Here’s the transmission with the input shaft pulled forward. My first gear and second gears were a bit worn. 
Once I removed all the gears, I discovered the reverse gear had a broken tooth. 
Close up of broken tooth. Thankfully, Charles Tate had sent me a box of T-96 parts that included a reverse gear. I was also able to replace the entire bottom cluster, first gear, and second gear. That saved me some money!
To remove the side shifters, a pin has to be tapped out. I was able to remove the 2/3 gear shifter, but not the first/reverse unit. Since there was no critical reason I could see for removing the first/reverse mechanism, I left it as is and cleaned up the housing.
Normally, I’d paint the housing before assembly. However, with time being an issue and lacking enough warmth on the rebuild day to properly paint it, I will paint it at a later date. 
One other unique thing about the T-96: it requires the use of a special speedometer cable that is also used for Jeepsters and wagons.
