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Brian’s Military Jeeps has moved to WWIIJeepParts.com

• CATEGORIES: Features, Website This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Brian’s Mililtary Jeeps website can now be found at http://www.wwiijeepparts.com/.  If you haven’t visited the site, you really should.  Brian has a wealth of information and details throughout the site.  For example,’What is Cosmoline?‘ is a question I never thought to ask, because I’d never heard of it; However, Brian not only knows to ask, but also has a ready answer! Below is Brian’s description of his website.

“The WWII Military Jeep Website – Dedicated to restoring WWII Jeeps – the MB, GPW – mfg. by Willys & Ford from 1941 – 1945, and outfitting them with proper parts, accessories, accouterments and militaria. MB/GPW, Slat Grill, “F” Script and other Rare Parts For Sale & Trade. “

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Four Wheeling Plus in Ellensburg, Wa

• CATEGORIES: Features, News This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Four Wheeling Plus owner Ron Dunn Jr. is moving his shop to a smaller location, so he says he has some great deals on a variety of products.  You can learn more from the PNW4WDA website or go to his website.

“Yes I am selling my shop but NO I am not going out of business. I am selling my 6000 square foot shop that is pretty much out in the middle of nowhere and I hope to buy/lease a smaller building in town where I will get more foot and drive up traffic.”

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My Build — Oops, My Alternator Bolt is a Bit Too Long

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit, Features This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Well, the best laid plans… While puzzling through the charging system, I decided I needed to pull off my alternator so I could determine exactly which kind of alternator I had (Delco 10SI 63 Amp — Determine your GM alternator).  As I pulled out the long bottom bolt upon which the alternator pivots, I discovered a problem: There wasn’t enough room to pull out the bolt.  Even after clipping a hole in my electric radiator framework, I still ran directly into the radiator (see the pic to the right).  Fortunately, I discovered can undo the radiator, shift it somewhat, and then can pull out the bolt far enough to let the alternator slip away.  So, at least I have a method, though elegant it isn’t!

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Fiberglass Race Body and Desert Dog/Coop Tires Eatonville, Wa **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Body Parts, Features, Racing, Tires and Rims • TAGS: , , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE:  SOLD

If you are doing some PNW racing, here’s some good stuff for you.  Plenty of tread on those tires.  The body comes with fenders, hood and grille.

“Bobcat willys flat fender race body complete with seperate fenders hood and grill. Has removalable tailgate and no floor. Very good condition.$700.00

4 co-op front tires. 2 are brand new, 2 have 1 race and 1 spare. 10 desert dogs 2 are brand new and the rest are 60% and 85-90%. $1000.00 for all. Must take all tires. Will not separate.”

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My Build — Progress: Wiring & Lights

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit, Features This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Over the past couple of days I’ve continued to make progress.  I’ve got the headlights and taillights installed.  The headlights had an unexpected complication:  It turned out the modern 5 1/2″ bulb wouldn’t sit correctly into the 50 year old mount, so I had to encourage a better fit with my grinder.

NOTE:  One set of items I don’t seem to have are front turn signals.  I’d like to find a set of the cone turn signals that I believe were on a mid 60s Willys truck like these.  If you know of any, please let me know where I can find some.

With the lights attached, I started the wiring process.  My main goal is to make it as easy as possible to unattach the body for painting or repair purposes.  So, for example, after installing the taillights I ran a flexible tube along the body using some sheet metal screws so that all the rear lighting stayed attached to body.  Anytime wiring needs to cross from the body to the frame, engine, etc, I’m trying to bridge it with some kind of plug.  So far so good.

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My Build — Front Shocks and Shock Mounts

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit, Features This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

I stopped by Buck’s 4×4 shop here in Boise yesterday and picked up some BDS Shocks.  My measurements showed I needed a pair of shocks that had a compressed size of approx 15″ and a maximum size of approx 25″.  It only took them a few minutes to find what I needed.  Best of all, the price was right — under $100.

Now that I had shocks, I could finally create the front shock mounts, something I’ve put off for a few months. I knew I wanted something similar to what I used last time for shock mounts.  On my last jeep I took some 1/2″ steel that was 4″ wide and bent it using a 10′ tube pipe and dad’s huge vice (firmly attached to a 1000lb bench).  The result were mounts that attached to the side of the frame, rounding up and out.  I liked the effect, so for this jeep I wanted to do something similar.  Instead of the steel I used last time, I took a piece of 1/4″ x 5.5″ x 6′ piece of steel I salvaged from my sisters’ farm and created my shock mounts from that.

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The Austin Gipsy

• CATEGORIES: Features, Unusual This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Expanding from the previous post about Austin Champs, the Austin Gipsy was a chance for Austin Champ designers to start from scratch using what they had learned from the Champ.

One of the most interesting features was an independent suspension design as seen in the drawing to the right.

Austin Gipsy Links:

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The Austin Gipsy (another British 4×4)

• CATEGORIES: Features This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Expanding from the previous post about Austin Champs, and continuing our brief tour of british 4x4s, the Austin Gipsy was a chance for Austin Champ designers to start from scratch using what they had learned from the Champ.

One of the most interesting features was an independent suspension design as seen in the drawing to the right.

Austin Gipsy Links:

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1953 Austin Champ (British 4×4) Midland, MI **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Features This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2000

Brian forwarded this ad to me.  I’ve never knew these existed.  According to Wikipedia, these were built from 1951 – 1956 and were excellent cross country vehicles, apparently surpassing the capabilities of the Land Rover.  However, though the Land Rover could only do 80% of what the Champ could do, the Land Rover cost much less to produce, so the Champ contract was eventually cancelled.  Interestingly, the Champ had a 5 speed synchromesh tranny with reverse adapted to the rear drive line apart from the tranny, so that the Champ could do 5 speeds backwards as well.  Finally, the Champ had no transfercase, instead the driveline went to the rear differential and then there was a takeoff to the front differential (which had a clutch to control 2wd/4wd mode).  These would make a very interesting project.”

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Puzzled about Brake Line Sizes

• CATEGORIES: Features, News This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Once again, I’ve been searching the internet.  The newest quest for information involves brake line sizes.  Specifically, as I posted a few days ago, I pulled brakes lines and a combo valve from a late 80s Cherokee.

One of the things I didn’t realize initially was that the front brakes lines are 3/16″ while the rear line is 1/4″.  The question I had was, does that matter?  After some searching, I landed on the Hotrodders site where readers discussed this issue.  The nut of the discussion was that this should not be an issue and, in fact, has been done on many newer vehicles….

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