A project.
“Willys jeep. 1940s vintage complete minus front wheels. Engine looks complete. oil pan is included but not installed. Wyoming vehicle so minimal rust.”
A project.
“Willys jeep. 1940s vintage complete minus front wheels. Engine looks complete. oil pan is included but not installed. Wyoming vehicle so minimal rust.”
Lots of mods.
“Does not run has a v8 need work 2000 have title”
No obvious rust.
“1948 Willy Jeep
Price: $9999.99 (You know…$10,000 and I give you change)
Very nice toy. I have rebuilt it about 95% “original” with only slight “modern” aspects. Runs and looks good, but NOT a museum piece. This is a “runner”.
This unit was issued civilian, but I chose to rebuild it as military.
I just don’t have time to play with it much anymore. Funny how work gets in the way of…. Fun?
Let me know if you would like to have a look.
NO checks, money orders or “sad stories”. Cash only.
Drop me an email.”
UPDATE **SOLD** Was $1895.
“Hello, I have a CJ3B project for sale, It includes the body as seen in photos, new frame with springs. This is a new frame (a reproduction from Acme Jeep Parts) not a sandblasted old frame. I have installed Saginaw steering using Jeep Parts from a 1971 Jeepster Commando, is a very good installation, and a trailer hitch make from 3/8 plate, so it is plenty strong and looks nice. Also, the front bumper is made out of 1/4 steel plate that I had bent to look like a stock bumper, so it is really strong over a stock bumper. This is a very good start for a project, and I also have other Jeep parts for sale if interested in building a solid Jeep project. This project comes with the original VIN plate for registration, but this project is being sold with a bill of sale only. I can deliver this Jeep within 100 miles for fuel costs both ways.”
UPDATE II: Add are some instructions (thanks Terry!) for installing DJ-3A seats:
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ORIGINAL POST UPDATE MAY 2017: I’ve added a couple pics at the end and included a discussion on the extra channel DJ-3As have.
Last fall, when disassembling Rusty, I thought it was odd that the 2/3 1/3 seats had been mounted on wood blocks. I assumed this had been done by the previous owner to raise the seats.
Yesterday, I discovered that Patterson’s passenger seat was loose. When I examined it more carefully, I learned that it was loose because one of the wood blocks under the seat had broken. I can only conclude that all DJ-3A’s with 2/3 1/3 seats were mounted on wood blocks? Or maybe only the early ones?
The photo below shows the passenger seat tilted forward. The front of it is mounted in a way that allows it to pivot forward. The mounts are bolted through a piece of wood, then through a piece of cloth, through the body, and into a welded bolt. The rear of the seats rests on the two mounts at the back of the well. The long piece of wood is a well-seasoned (at least 45 years old) and stained piece of oak that will work perfect for replacement blocks.
Unlike the passenger seat, the rear of the driver’s seat rests on two posts; slide onto the ends of the posts are rubber feet. Those rubber feat sit on blocks of wood also. 
A close up of the rubber foot. The hole is 1 inch in diameter, so I ought to be able to find rubber feet to replace these tired ones.
This shows how great the floor on this DJ is.
Another angle. Blocks 1, 4, 5, and 6 were the same size. Blocks 2 and 3 were larger and screwed down to the body. The rear 2/3’s seat rested atop those blocks.
I’ve drilled cut and drilled the blocks. They are ready for installation. I plan to add a thin piece of rubber under the blocks. Once I remove the rusted end of one bolt that broke, I’ll be able to reinstall the seats.
If you take a look at wood block #1 and block #6 there’s something curious. While the body area under wood block is similar to a CJ-3A, the body area under #6 has an additional channel (btw, we’ve yet to document any under DJ-3A body channels with wood in them).
This is the passenger side with the extra channel and a welded bolt.

No channel on the driver’s side even though there is a bolt welded there. 
Finally, the DJ-3As used wood blocks between the frame and transmission crossmember.

Another thing I got accomplished recently was the rebuilding of Rusty’s T-96 transmission. It’s been a couple decades since I’ve rebuild a T-90, but I think a person could follow a T-90 side shift guide when rebuilding the T-96 (I didn’t think of this until after I was done — instead I used an old rebuild manual from the late 60’s that has rebuilds of 35 different styles of transmissions). Once again, I thought I had more pics, but I didn’t. So, this isn’t a step-by-step overview.
I took this photo at the beginning of the tear-down to remember which way the speedometer gear should face. The lack of a transfercase is part of what makes this rebuild different from most other jeep transmissions.

Here’s the transmission with the input shaft pulled forward. My first gear and second gears were a bit worn. 
Once I removed all the gears, I discovered the reverse gear had a broken tooth. 
Close up of broken tooth. Thankfully, Charles Tate had sent me a box of T-96 parts that included a reverse gear. I was also able to replace the entire bottom cluster, first gear, and second gear. That saved me some money!
To remove the side shifters, a pin has to be tapped out. I was able to remove the 2/3 gear shifter, but not the first/reverse unit. Since there was no critical reason I could see for removing the first/reverse mechanism, I left it as is and cleaned up the housing.
Normally, I’d paint the housing before assembly. However, with time being an issue and lacking enough warmth on the rebuild day to properly paint it, I will paint it at a later date. 
One other unique thing about the T-96: it requires the use of a special speedometer cable that is also used for Jeepsters and wagons.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay.
That’s an SAS-esque jeep.
“1943- Willys “radio jeep” during U.S. Army maneuvers “somewhere” in Oregon. Photo measures approx. 7″ x 9″”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was Make Offer.
Seller testing the market for this CJ-2A-truck.
“Just seeing if I can get what I want for it.
Rebuilt;
Engine 2.2
Transmission 3 speed
Trasfer case 2 speed
Front and rear axles
All stock 1947-48 parts
It’s about 95 percent complete. Just needs a few things, but it’s just sitting in storage. It is drivable”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $15,000.
Has a replacement body. Has a Warn OD.
“48 willys jeep, 4 cylinder engine, army tires, 4 stick operation with auxiliary 2 speed overdrive. Very nice piece in superb condition.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6000
(07/26/2016) The seller believes the jeep is original, but it has an M-38-like windshield and a body with WWII glove box. So, it’s a custom build, but one that appears to be in good shape.
“Regrettably I am selling my 1948 Willys Jeep because we have enlarged our family and need the money. This was a barn find a little over a year ago in New Mexico. Jeep runs and drives great, only 2 owners, body is rust free and has a good paint job. I have done a few things like tune up, new carb, plug wires ect… Jeep is almost all original except for the brand new off road wheels and tires and 12 volt upgrade. Comes with soft top and doors and tow bar. Please text if you are interested price $6000obo. More pics on request. Will give a $500 discount to any active or veteran military.”
