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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
The pics suggest there may be some rust, but perhaps I am wrong . . .
“1948 Willys Jeep Pick Up Truck
BARN FIND
Starts, stops, and NO RUST ISSUES!
Needs TLC but all there.
I know what it is worth but I don’t need another project.
3 on the tree
No Title”
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/6189946661.html
No pics.
“I’ve got a survivor, it runs and drives. I’d like to trade for a small truck or best offer”
It’s definitely a project.
“Perfect project car for sale. I have no time to devote to this project. It is stored in a garage. It is in good shape. There is also a 350 Engine for it, Many other Parts with many that are new in the box. The hood it not very well displayed but is in good shape. There is a title for this car. If you are interested give me a call and make an offer. Please only serious buyers with serious offers. You will need to pickup and haul away.”
https://chico.craigslist.org/pts/6188959551.html
UPDATE: Price dropped to $5500.
(05/16/2017) This has all kinds of mods.
“4X4 FRANKENSTEIN CRAWLER- clear NV Titled 1948 WILLYS JEEP.
V8 327 Chevy Electronic ignition, 4 speed Manual GM Trans and Transfer case.
Toyota- SR5 pickup frame, brakes and axles. Rear axle, full locker, set for Zero departure. 110″ wheel base. Rancho shocks.
Classic WILLYS body, adjusted for 35X12.5X15 tires on Deep 6 lug Toyota rims.
Front Wench: WARN XD90001 electric
Rear Wench: Hickey Sidewinder”
https://reno.craigslist.org/cto/6192804341.html
UPDATE: Was no price. Now $2500.
(05/07/2017) This has some unusual mods in the driver’s compartment.
“I have a 1946 jeep willys that i need to trade for a camper. I have the title for the jeep. I don’t need anything fancy, I just got a job in the oilfield and I need it to live in till the house sells.”
UPDATE: Still Available.
(11/14/2016) Has a variety of updates.
“A 1951 Willys M38 for SALE!
Here is my baby up for sale, very fun to drive. Head turner for sure. A lot of Power A lot of torque. Street Legal.
– M38 body on a 1971Jeep CJ5 chassis.
– Engine: Buick 231 3.8L V6 Turbo Charged with a recently rebuilt and tuned Holly 650cfm 4bb Double Pumper Vacuum Secondary Carburator.
– Transmission: 350 Turbo Hydromatic.
– Transfer Case: T-18.
– Detroit Lockers.
– Beadlock Rims.
– Full Custom Rolling Cage.
– Air Compressor: MaxAir 4.0
– Power Steering.
– Many More Features…’
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/6191911661.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2500.
“ALL ORIGINAL 1958 JEEP FC 150 NARROW TRACK PU. 4CYL. 3 SPEED. NICE COLORADO TRUCK WITH VERY LITTLE RUST. NOT RUNNING. THIS NEEDS A COMPLETE RESTORATION. ENGINE PARTIALLY APART. I CAN SHOW IT M-F 8 – 5. IN STORAGE FACILITY. $2500.00 or close offer with Colorado title”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $9500.
“Mariner Blue 1961 Jeep CJ-5. Features the 134CI F-Head 4 Cylinder Engine, 3 Speed Manual Transmission with 4 Wheel Drive. Body off restoration with engine rebuild completed in 2005. Newer style low bucket front seats with sliding drivers adjustment and fold and tumble back seat. Recent work includes: New Master cylinder, all fluids changed, rebuilt carburetor, new pedal levers, new front drive shaft yokes/seals, installed front locking hubs and new temp and fuel gauges. This Jeep is in excellent condition, ready to be enjoyed.
For additional fee, I will include BRAND NEW Bestop Supertop soft top and doors (not installed) ($949 new 5/2014).”
Contact David at (269)217-7029 for more info. The jeep runs.
“360 AMC edelbrock intake and carb no rust Rough Country suspension runs good”
A couple things confused me today. In this first example, we have at top the original gasket between the intake manifold and carb. On the bottom is the replacement gasket included in a rebuild kit. As you can see, it won’t work. Is the DJ-3A intake that unique? I know it uses a Carter YF 2392, so that’s unique.
Next up, the ends for the dragline. On the left is the new end and on the right the old one. The new one is taller and has shallower slots for installing it. The old end is shorter and has much deeper slots (those deeper slots are really helpful) . Anyone know why these are so different? Between the longer end and longer springs, I couldn’t put all the parts together around the bell crank arm (and I tried). In the end I was forced to use some old and some new parts.
Note the difference in the spring heights. Try as I might, I could not compress the spring enough to install an end. I changed to the old end.
Once I used some of the old parts, I was able to get the draglink installed.
I also installed the dual master cylinder. The rear brake line connected perfectly. I just had to add one bend. The front brake lines were a big problem. You’d think trying to locate an 3/16-1/4 adapter would be easy, but it turned into multiple trips to the auto store, where I hunted for the right sizes with the right threads. The staffs at two different auto stores were not useful (nice, but not helpful). So, this will work for now, but I’d like to get the proper adapter and remove the connectors and line on the right side. 
Sunday morning we’ll 1) bleed the brakes and then, if all goes well with that, 2) replace the front springs and then 3) drop in the engine.
