This looks good.
“Jeep is in excellent running condition. Remanifactured carb. New brake wheel cylinders and new master cylinder. Relined gas tank. Engine and transmissions in excellent condition. Military tires with spare. Many new parts.”
This looks good.
“Jeep is in excellent running condition. Remanifactured carb. New brake wheel cylinders and new master cylinder. Relined gas tank. Engine and transmissions in excellent condition. Military tires with spare. Many new parts.”
I’m gonna guess this was a CJ-3 with a MB/GPW grille. It appears this might have been at least a decent jeep at some point.
“selling body as whole, or sell fenders, hood, windshield, grill and radiator seperate. call for any question @ 480766-0402. all for $1,000 or make a offer!!”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5200.
This looks in good shape.
“1948 Willy’s Jeep, 4-cylinder, 3-speed, recently tuned-up, 32″ tires, chrome rims, full-cage rollbar, front and rear tow receivers, new 12-volt battery, electric wipers, front stabilizer shock, rhino-lined inside, WILL CONSIDER TRADE FOR TRUCK WITH PLOW.”
It looks like this might clean up pretty nicely (for the buy it now price of $1,395).
“This is an awesome original example of in all original condition with everything there. It was taken out of service due to charging issue in 1997 and stored. Can be road ready with very little TLC or do the complete restoration. There is light surface rust at the roof gutters, rear wheel openings but other than that it is a very nice California Willy’s. I have a number of projects going and have to move my shop so it must go.”
This seems like a very nice CJ-5 for a pretty reasonable price. There’s a long list of new and rebuilt parts put into this rebuild.
“1955 Willys Jeep. Has undergone a frame-off restoration. Here is a list of items rebuilt or replaced in this 4 year process: …. The Jeep has been parked for the past year. It has appx 300 miles on engine. Contact Scott at 575-910-5020”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1500.
“Selling an all original 1960s Willys Jeep. Has an L-134 engine, T-90 transmission, Dana 18 twin stick transfer case and warn locking hubs. It runs good and is in fair shape. Asking 2000 or obo.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2500.
This looks pretty nice for only $2500. No top included.
“It has a 225 v6, stock running gear no top or back seat newer tires and front springs.”
UPDATE: Price dropped to $700
(10/06/09) This looks like a great price for 2 parts jeeps. The cage alone is worth $100+
“this is 2 jeeps the red one has orignal paint i was told it was running when parked but now the engine is stuck and the other jeep also has a engine that is not stuck they are bolth orignal engines but its missing some parts you can make one good jeep thanks frank 707-484-5251”
I ran across this electric vehicle named Jazzy owned by Jim Stack. It appears to be an ‘VEEP’ Kit with a fiberglass body. It is powered by an Advanced DC FB-4001 Series Wound DC 9. It runs in 3rd gear and never needs to be shifted, according to the owner. The top speed is 70MPH with a total range of about 50MPH. There are 10 Trojan T-105 now SG90’s, 12.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, Flooded very minimal battery pack for 30 mile range. All located under center of chassis for stable road handling, great G holding on corners. View all the information here.
“1968 Volkswagen VW chassis. 50 Jeep fiberglass body with front disk brakes carries the Veepster fiberglass 1950 Jeep body.”
Rear of jeep. Note no Jeep rear lights (he was looking for traditional square lights).
Well, I didn’t get as much progress done today as I planned (like I ever do?), mostly because I slept in — way in! I spent much of the afternoon, moving, measuring, leveling, thinking and then removing, remeasuring, releveling … I think you get the picture. It took me a while to realize that my windshield is a little crooked and that was throwing me off a little. Once I figured that out, I started making progress.
The first thing I did today was to brace the loops into place so I could start adding supports. I did some cross tubes first. This helped square the loops, which were off about half an inch each. Once that was done, I started on the rear supports. I’ve got a little grinding left on the driver’s side left rear piece then it will be ready to be tacked into place.
For my tube intersections, I’ve been using this tube coping calculator. I found it off just slightly, but close enough to be of real value. I taped the paper to a thin piece of cardboard (my Haagen Dazs Ice Cream boxes work great — A great excuse to get Dark Chocolate/Dark Chocolate Ice Cream Bars).
Tomorrow evening I’ll complete the back area and start to work on the top side pieces.
Here’s the only pic I have from tonight.