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About eWillys
Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
“1947 CJ3B High Hood 302 Ford Automatic, Dana 20 Twin Stick Transfer Case FJ Axles with Lockers. Setting on a yj frame.Runs and Drives Good. It’s not perfect but really nice to cruse the hills with. $10,000 or best offer.”
“4 cyl. Hurricane engine
Runs/ drives
No surprises that are known
12,000 lb. Warn winch
Needs the wiring redone because it was crumbling but not a big job.
Good restoration project
odometer is broken
$4500 or best offer”
“All original complete barn find. Flat head 4 cyl motor. Have not touched. No rust . .
So many calls. . First 2500 gets or trade for ford work truck. Bill of sale only. Thanks,”
“I have a custom 1947 Willys Tub Body rat rod for sale. Asking $6,000 OBO. Located in Concho, AZ. Would prefer cash, but open to trades; RV, travel trailer, enclosed trailer, tractor, skid steer, truck, work/cargo van, let me know what you have. The guy I got it from said it was custom built by a guy who worked as a machinist/welder at the Mines in Bagdad Arizona so he had full access to the metal shop there.
1947 Willys Tub Body
Custom Steel Frame and Tube Steel Body
Front and Rear Airbags with onboard air tank
Aircraft Aluminum Seats
Custom Front Axle with Chevy K5 Blazer Spindles
Drivetrain and all electrical parts from 1988 Ford F150
Ford 300ci Inline Six Cylinder
5 Speed Ford Manual Transmission
Ford Rear End
I have clean title in hand. Call or text if you are interested or have any questions”
“I got a 1961 willys jeep truck 3spd 4×4 runs and drives but it’s still a project all new brakes and cylanders new plugs wires points and cap
Has a straight 6 super huricane
No title but I do have all the proper paper work and receipts to get the title
$3500 firm
Will trade for a 2016 to newer
kx450
Crf450
Rmz450”
“Clean title project
Arizona title and questions call me or text for more information and details
Or trade. Sand Jeep sandrag sand drag
Project for Hot Rot
Hotrod. Rat Rod
$2500 obo
Classic vintage car oldie”
“Topeka Hiway Mower HPS5 with Flail Mower – Estimated Year: Late 60s – Early 70s
– Serial #2257 – 121.6 hours
* Unit Does Not Run *
* 4×4 Stick Shift
* 4 Cylinder Flat Head
* High/Low Transfer Case
* Front & Rear Differential
* Has pumps
* Willy’s running gear
“This aluminum hardtop is made by Metro engineering. It is in fair condition. No doors. Hard to find these. It came off of a 1947 cj2a willys jeep. Thank you!”
I was looking for an answer to a question when this “HotRod | Race Car | Drift Car Wiring for Beginners” video popped up. It seems like a real useful video and it is making me consider adopting a couple of ideas.
For example, currently there is no solenoid within the electrical system (I was just going to redo what was already there). But, the solenoid makes sense (and maybe two make sense), but now I have to figure out where to put the solenoid(s). My current plan would be to put them on the passenger side of the rear inside the dog house. That would be close to the battery and the starter, so I wouldn’t have to run the starter cables such a long distance. Anyway, still thinking through that ….
Also, in the current electrical design, there was no safety switch (meaning to force the FC to only start in Park or Neutral). This seems like a pretty good idea to have. But, my shifter (late 1960s Dodge A100 shifter) doesn’t have one installed. Nor was there anything installed on the TH350 transmission. However, Lokar makes a solution that can be adapted to a TH350 (and other trannys). The limitation of the Lokar is that you can choose to have a safety switch or a reverse light switch, but not both. That got me on a tangent of wondering if I could also add a backup light switch to that setup.
Another idea I had was to build a custom bracket and install a Chev brake light switch on it that would fit in the front of the shifter. So, when the shifter was in Park, the switch would be pushed in, allowing the ignition voltage to pass through. But, it would only be setup to start in Park (maybe that isn’t a big deal). Then, I’d use the Lokar at the transmission to control the reverse lights.
Anyway, check out the video. I thought it was good. (note that the wire he has going from the alternator to the fuse box via a diode goes, on my set up, to the tach … so I don’t think the feedback he experienced would be an issue??).