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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
The transfercase levers are bent towards the floor quite a ways. Seller must sell fast.
“I have a 1950 willeys cj3a it does need a little work not much though it run hasn’t been taged since 2009 need to sale fast do to got myslf into trouble it is in good shape just needs a little cleaning up but has no denys”
https://chico.craigslist.org/cto/6205153072.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3000.
Might be worth a look.
“Selling 1957 Willys Jeep. Has early Chevy small block. Front PTO winch. Runs great, needs TLC. This was a hunting rig for a man who has passed.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was “Make Offer”
Needs work. Selling is taking offers on this.
“Considering offers for my F150 Willy’s. It’s been twenty five years since we’ve used it much but does start up and no smoke. Needs fuel pump master cylinder work, broken drivers side windown and door latch. 75000 miles. It’s been on our farm for over 45 years and very good bones for restoration I think.”
Looks in good shape. Has one cracked rear slider.
“Koenig full cab with doors for willys cj2a or cj3a jeep. Has all the door handles & window cranks. One rear side slider is cracked. I just don’t have the time to use it. $400.00 firm.”
https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/6205781537.html
UPDATE:**SOLD** Was $3000.
Has a mix of parts including a GPW tub.
“Rebuilt jeep non running because missing parts. Fresh paint job and body has been patched looks brand new. Asking 3000 obo”
Steering wheel is being installed.
“46 Willys Jeep
Just replaced buick V6, new fuel tank, new seat backs, new steering column (not yet installed), runs good. Hard top included, title in hand.”
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/6200855525.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1200.
It’s a pile of parts.
“CJ3B body, frame, Misc. Parts all original.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6400.
(05/21/2017) Has a variety of updates.
“Fully restored, lightly used, excellent condition.”
This photo provides a good look at how frayed some of the wire was behind the speedometer. Worse, this wiring was sitting on the metal brace!! in the background is the volt-a-drop which provides stepped down voltage to the King Seeley speedometer).
Electrical Mess:
We’ve been working hard on Patterson the last couple of days. Most of our time has been consumed with checking wiring and rewiring stuff. Between frayed wires and mis-wired stuff, it’s filled our time. Apart from the types of frayed wire seen in the pic above, I discovered 1) the wires to the amp gauge and light were wired into the oil light (fortunately, all I had to do was pop out the light and plug it into the amp light), 2) the amp light was missing altogether (thankfully I could steal one off of Rusty’s speedometer), 3) the ignition jumper that screws to the back of the speedometer was laying on the metal brace (must have caused some shorting), 4) the oil light wire was wired to the fuel gauge (which explains in part why the fuel gauge didn’t work … well that and there was no wire connected to the fuel tank wire.
Dimmer Switch:
No more red paint on this dimmer switch.
The dimmer switch has been lubed, reassembled, de-painted, and installed.
The Horn Wire
Patterson came with a button attached to the side of the steering column that was used as a horn, but it didn’t work. Since we were already changing some of the wiring around, we decided to steal the column shift button wiring from Rusty’s steering column I wired last month and use it on Patterson.
To start, I knew we had to run some non-electric wire (similar to bailing wiring) through the length of the column in order to pull the horn button’s electric wire down the shaft. That sounded like a good idea, but several attempts at pushing the wire up the column were a failure: the wire kept getting snagged as I pushed it up the column. I was getting frustrated.
But then, my genius wife had an idea. Why not blow some thread down the column using an air compressor nozzle. Once the thread came out the bottom, we could pull the bailing-like wire back through. I admit, at first I thought it sounded a little crazy. After all, near the bottom of the column shaft it narrows, so I thought for sure the thread would be stopped by it. But, then I took a breath and thought …. hmmm … what could it hurt to try?
Sure enough, she produced some thread, dropped a little down the column, then stuck the air nozzle into the hole. That thread blew threw the bottom of the column in a couple seconds. It was genius! Well, almost genius, as we had to upgrade our thread to thicker thread. Other than that, we had the column horn working in no time!
This is the thin thread we tried. It didn’t she enough tensile strength to pull up the wire. She just dropped some thread in and the air blew the rest of the thread down through that small hole at the bottom.
Once we shifted to the thicker, black thread it worked perfectly.
Ted Jordan shared these photos showing a comparison between Dumas and Carson center seats. In the photo below, the Carson seat is shown on the left and the Dumas on the right.
Help us out by buying an Alaska Or Rust T-shirt. They are now available for sale. They are 100% heavy cotton and are priced at $25 from the Alaska Or Rust site (to cover shipping**) or $20 in person. You can use paypal or use a credit card. If you’d prefer to send a check (or have questions), email me at d@ewillys.com.
http://www.deilers.com/AlaskaOrRust/shop/
Most of our shirt sizes are XL and L, but we have some XXL, M, and a handful of Smalls.
**If you live outside of the US or Canada, we may have to charge extra for shipping.
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay.
Ted’s got an NOS Novi variable speed governors for sale on eBay. He has two others he’d be happy to sell outside of eBay. See his contact info below.
“They are in very good condition with the Novi units themselves being NOS. I have put together three last complete setups for CJ2As- 3As or any Lhead equipped universal Willys . There complete with Governor , correct L Head mounting bracket, original Dash T handle and control assembly with exact copies of King Seeley style Wire and correct Carb Links.
The unit on Ebay Im sending the link for has the early style Dash assembly . I would be happy to sell the last remaining units outside of Ebay if anyone is interested. Feel free to contact me directly willysted@charter.net or call with any questions or specific Willys PTO requests.
