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About eWillys
Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
“We are selling our beloved Willys bad ass toy.
Power train, 327 stroker motor, 350 turbo transmission w/shift kit, Rock Crusher transfer case high/low, 9in rear end, air lockers on all 4 corners w/on board air compressor, New 33×12.5 15in. plus 2 rear paddle tires, Body stretched for tons of leg room, 17 gal custom fuel cell w/custom half doors, Diamond plate, Rhino lined interior, costume bumpers, aluminum tilt column, Corbeau 3 point harness bucket seats, Collector plates, locking center console, FM/CD Stereo chrome high end weather proof duel speakers.”
“The jeep was purchased from a Willys collector (second owner) in 2012 for $10,000 plus a jeep for which I paid $2,000, with $7,000 added since.
The original owner was in Western Oregon.
I wanted an original, green,Willys, with original paint, but not with the rust like most on the market. More than 50 jeeps in different States were considered before finding this one. The engine, transmission and Warn overdrive had been rebuilt when I purchased it with a roll bar. There are 25,153 miles on the jeep now.
The license plate designates the vehicle as a collectible, so you don’t need to pay for yearly tabs.
These are the additions since 2012; they were professionally done. Most receipts were kept:
Brakes, master cylinder, hoses, and wheel cylinders $1,114
Wheel bearings packed, replaced hub seals and tie rod $550
Rebuilt distributor, ignition coil, spark plugs $450
New muffler and tail pipe $286
Rebuilt carburetor, points, condenser $443
New thermostat and water pump $416
New fuel pump
Replace brake lights $31
New, stock clutch, value adjustment, wheel bearings $963
New battery $78
New, custom-made springs $668.36, kept originals.
New hood blocks $10.95
New rear floor mat $149.95
New Tow bar and cable
New trailer hitch (never towed anything; thought I would tow a rowing shell but didn’t.) Continue reading →
“1949 CJ3A WILLYS JEEP,RESTORATION ON ITS Way.
has later V6 model that runs perfect.
bodywork needs attention as per pics.
new military tires.battery.and carburetor.
11in brakes.new wiring”
“I have a 1947 flat fender jeep cj2a with a 1958 283 2bbl chevy v8 that runs and drives great
I have gone through the axles and brakes, changed all the fluids, this is a great little jeep with nice paint, daily driver
or fun for car shows or cruising, clean and clear fl title in my name”
No evidence shown to confirm this was a military jeep. Needs work.
“1953 willys true military jeep 4×4 3 speed rebulit 4 cylender Runs needs the brakes put on I have new wheel cylinders and shoes for it all the way around front end and drive train have been redone needs pressure plate adjusted to be driven has new fuel tank and electronic pump needs to be hooked up has been converted to 12 volt lights have been rewired needs hooked up to the switch have a lot of extra parts just don’t have time to fix it up like I had planned asking $3500 or trade for something that catches my eye”
“Professionally rebuilt single lever front output Model 41 power take off for Willys Jeep wagon, panel or pickup with the Dana 18 transfer case. The original curved shift lever has been repaired and is very hard to see the repair. The chain is tight. Comes with allen bolts to mount it without disassembling the case. This may be too long for CJs as it may contact the frame. Pic 1, 2 and 3 ————————————– $350”
“1948 willys CJ2A. fully restored in 1988, many upgrades since. buick V6 with TH350 automatic. ratchet shifter, dana 44’s on both ends with 4.27 gears. open knuckle disc brakes. power steering. rancho springs and 5 way shocks, reclining buckets. 6 point cage to the frame. engine driven air compressor with air tank for tires and impact wrench. dual fuel tanks and 2 heaters. 4 wheel hubs. 29 tooth model 18 transfer case. CB radio. stewart warner mechanical gauges. this jeep is clean and turn key. you can drive it all week to work and go 4 wheeling on the week ends. serious inquiries only, no trades, cash only. no low balling.”
Patterson has a Harrison Heater, common in the early DJ-3As. Attached at the bottom of the dash is an Ark-Less four position switch (Off, Low, Medium, High) that controls the fan speed. The switch wasn’t delivering current, so I spent the day figuring out how to pull it apart and clean it up in the hopes that the switch could be resurrected.
The switch is held together by a long pin in the center. The switch also rotates on this pin. To remove the pin, the rounded edges on the pin must be drilled/pressed together/or someone modified. I chose to drill out the ends.
Here’s what it looks like to begin (not my switch .. I forgot to take this pic .. thanks to the cj-2a.com page)
Note the small hole. That pin must be pushed out
Now, here’s my switch. It received some paint when Patterson was repainted (I believe the paint was touched up some at some point). Once I drilled out the end of the pin a little, I used the nail to push the pin through.
Here’s the other side of the pin. Now that it is sticking up, I can remove it.
Pin removed. I didn’t put much pressure on the pin when I first pushed it through, so I *think* the pin was already bent somehow.
