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1952 M-38A1 Knoxville, TN $12,500

• CATEGORIES: M-38A1 • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $12,500

“1952 Willys M38a1 ‘Army Jeep’
Full frame off restoration. Everything was rebuilt or replaced with NOS or new parts. Too much to list.
Jeep is fully functioning 24 volt waterproof electrical, great running 134 Hurricane engine, excellent driving and show quality paint.

I never thought I would sell. The only item that is unfinished is the vacuum system for the wipers. Only needs a hose. I was never going to drive in the rain.

Price is starting at $12,500 which is less than I have in it or the parts would be worth separate. Text or call for a viewing.

Little list of work done:
The body was removed and any rust was cutout and welded in new metal or replaced whole pieces, such as both fount fenders and the gas tank sump. Frame was striped bare and coated with POR-15 rust inhibitor. Engine was also painted with POR engine enamel.

All wiring is new, bought from Vintage wiring of ME. It’s all waterproof with mil-style connectors. The generator and distributor are NOS 24 volt, with new coil and points. Brand new fuel tank and fuel and vacuum lines. New water pump, fuel pump, oil pump, clutch, radiator, hoses, belts and ect. All new brake components: master, caliper, shoes, drums, and lines. New or NOS lights, all functioning. All new bearings/seals in burfield hubs and Warn lock out hubs. New axle on right front. NOS vacuum wiper motors. Brand new top and seat covers. Brand new tires. Gauges are new or NOS. New windshield and gasket. I believe the decals correlate to my fathers unit in Vietnam, although he was in a helicopter and not a M38a1.”

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1963 CJ-5 Oroville, CA $3000

• CATEGORIES: CJ5 This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Includes a warn OD.

“1963 CJ5 jeep
Has low miles and a rebuilt motor as of 8000 miles ago.
4cly
Manual trans with a Warn over drive system.
31×12.50-15 Toyo AT. Older tires. Lots of tread still.
Needs some work. Run and drives well.
Currently in the process of doing body work and will need some rust repair to make it whole again.
Fun toy to play with. ”

http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/5420986131.html

1963-cj5-oroville-ca

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1950 Truck Jenison, MI **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Willys Trucks • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4000.

The old lettering is great.

“4X4. All there. Turns over but does not start.
No trades or low offers. No offers entertained without first seeing the truck.”

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1958 CJ-5 Denver, CO **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ5 This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $600

Even with a seized engine there still might be value here.

“1958 Willy’s CJ-5
Needs restoration:
Seized engine
Flat tires”

1958-cj5-denver-co

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1946 VEC CJ-2A Northern WI $2500

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: Still Available.

(11/12/2016) Pics posted.

“Early 1946 Willys Cj2a that runs, drives, and stops. The body is original and has been patched over the years. Rare column shift (3 on the tree) transmission. Engine could use rings as it smokes/burns oil but has lots of power. A perfect winter rebuild project! One tire has a slow leak but all are matching and like new. I plan on getting the leak repaired..”

http://northernwi.craigslist.org/cto/5970388329.html

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Year? CJ-3A Myrtle Creek, OR **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $500

“I have a 1942 willys jeep tub and frame. It’s in pretty good shape. Some small rust holes in tub. I have a few pictures I can text if your interested. I’m not sure the title situation. I don’t have it and I’m not sure what it takes to get one for it. (I planned on making it off road only)

the willys is located in Myrtle Creek. I will send pictures if your interested. I’m asking $500.00 for its condition its is a steal. I just need it gone and out of my yard.
call, text, or email with any questions.”

year-cj2a-myrtlecreek-or

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Leaks & Fenders

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Two bits of good news from Paul. One, his jeep was NOT affected by Alaska’s recent earthquake. He had the sense to bolt things to the wall that could potentially fall onto his jeep. Two, he’s made some more updates to Knardly Rolls! So, read on . . .

alaska-january-20162

Looking towards Anchorage and the mountains beyond, January 2016. This was pre-earthquake, though it pretty much looks the same after the earthquake.

Paul writes, the progress so far this winter season on the Willys has been a little weird. Things started to get strange when I decided to fill the cooling system for the first time in 30 years. I’m an optimist but I like to think I’m based in reality so I told myself there’s always the possibility of leaks in the cooling system and having a couple of empty buckets ready to catch dripping antifreeze might be a good idea. With the empty buckets cleaned and placed nearby I poured the first gallon of antifreeze into the radiator.

After a short pause to inspect the hoses and connections for system integrity I began pouring the second gallon of coolant into the radiator and I quickly noticed my feet were getting quite wet. I managed to wedge the empty but rapidly filling buckets under the front axle where most of the escaping antifreeze could be captured since the leak appeared to be from the front of the engine by  the timing chain cover. Oh well, it looks like yet another unexpected repair or modification needs my attention.

After the leak slowed down to a slight drip I repositioned one of the buckets directly below the radiator drain and began transferring the antifreeze from the cooling system into the bucket and then back into the gallon containers which is where this green fluid came from about 15 minutes earlier. When no more fluid flowed from the radiator drain and the recaptured antifreeze was safely back into the gallon containers I decided to call it a day and leave the heavy thinking for the tomorrow.

After having strange dreams throughout the night concerning the coolant leaks on the Willys, by the next morning I ready to start pulling components off the front of the engine so the timing cover could be removed for troubleshooting. Since the engine has never been run after being rebuilt this was a fairly quick and easy task.

Once the timing cover was out of the way and the front of the cylinder block could be inspected I learned an interesting bit of information about the Buick V-6 engine. The front of the block has 4 bolt holes (2 on the left and 2 on the right) for the timing cover to attach, BUT the timing cover is manufactured as either a 2 or a 4 bolt type.

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The plugged bolt hole is the one closest to the right edge of the photo, it was left unplugged and partially exposed by the timing cover so the antifreeze flowed out quickly.

The timing cover on my engine is a 2 bolt type (where the coolant passage flows into the water pump) so the two unnecessary threaded holes in the block should’ve been plugged to prevent antifreeze from leaking. The unused threaded hole on the block is drilled into the coolant passage but the unused hole to the right is a blind hole and not open to the cooling system.

To prevent anymore leaks and to make me feel better I installed internal wrenching hex plugs in the unused holes . These plugs were screwed into position after the threads were cleaned and dried and the threads on the plugs were coated with gasket compound, then it was time for reassembly. Things were going pretty well until I noticed the rubber on the crank pulley damper was cracked and bulging out along the seam so this project came to a halt until the damper made a trip south to the Damper Doctor for a rebuild. 

[editors note. I *think* it was in one of those holes that, during my very first engine rebuild, I put too long of bolt into one of the holes. I tightened it down, though it got difficult near the end. Imagine my surprise when the #1 cylinder piston kept hitting something while i tried spinning the crank. OOPS, I’d damaged the cylinder wall!!]

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Two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood spread the clamping pressure and prevent damage to the metal when installing the abrasion panels to the underside of the fender.

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