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About eWillys
Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: ICON is no longer selling these jeeps. They were priced at $45,000
Jump over to the CJ-3B Page and check out the latest on the new ICON CJ-3B, the first of several (or many?) new CJ-3Bs that will roll of the ICON plant from Van Nuys, CA. Derek covers this vehicle very thoroughly. It appears they’ve built a good rig. The engine is an interesting choice, likely providing debate for some time. Make sure to check out the gauge panel; it’s very different!
“1951 M38 DEL. 12-1-51. GROUND UP RESTORATION 2006 805 MILES. EQUIP. GUN SCABBORD WINTER TOP, SNORKEL KIT, AXE AND SHOVEL ALL NOS PARTS USED AT RESTORATION WITH NEW RUBBER COMPONENTS. Jeep came from Korean Conflict and has 5 bullet holes under driver seat. Please contact Don Hall at Willy’s Restoration (541-336-5869 – restorer) in Toledo, OR, or Mark (650-353-0987- Owner). Jeep is located in Toledo, OR.”
“1951 Willys Overland Jeep. Flat fender, one piece windshield, 4 cylinder flat head engine (rebuilt), tranny and tcase rebuilt, new wiring harness (CJ5 style with fuse block). 3 speed on floor. Faded out red paint. Floor boards are in good shape. Vinyl seats in front, no seat in rear. No spare tire carrier. No rust holes. Newly painted metal hard top. Doors and opening fillers need to be painted and windows installed. Runs great. Titled in NC. Best you’ll find for the price!!! Cash only. Buyer will be responsible for pickup.”
“1948 jeep willys. It has a flat head 4 cylinder motor, with a 3-speed manual transmission. It has a power take off in the back of the jeep. The tries on the jeep are 7.00-16lw, they still said military on the tries. The speedometer reads 64525.The winch on the front is a 10,000lbs. This jeep still runs and drives great. we drive it everyday for a hunting jeep. For more questions about it just email me.”
“This is a good hunting jeep. I got the jeep in a trade and know little about it. Has 4cyl. flathead. 4×4 works smokes a little and needs brake work. Coated inside and out. Will try to get other info if needed, just ask or call. Thanks!”
UPDATE: It appears this was sold. It was listed at $600.
It runs, needs clutch, for only $600. Xtra parts thrown in …
“1948 Willys Jeep has NJ title ,motor runs fine can hear run, needs clutch,I have new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing kit, I also have new gas tank,Jeep needs body work (rust) have 2 extra rears and 2 extra trans with transfer cases one has extension for V8 mod, have original wheels and windshield frame not shown in picture , too many projects going on please ask any questions I’ll try to answer, no seats”
This appears to run and I can’t see any rust, though the pictures aren’t the best. This might be a decent deal.
“1949 Willys Jeepster. 327 chevy engine. I dont know for sure how many miles the engine has on it. Factory 4wd. Brakes need work. MAKE OFFER! Any questions call 214-212-8417”
“… When we first got this jeep, it was in pretty rough shape and close to 100 holes were filled in on the body from various things being mounted/removed over the years (blackout lights, etc etc) Virtually all of the work to it was done by either myself, my stepbrother, or a pro shop. I cant remember exactly how many miles are on it “after build”, but I’m guessing the motor/rebuilt tranny has about 5k, the brake system (entirely replaced at time of conversion) about 2k, tires about 2k. again, this is a toy that was hardly ever used.
Here’s the parts list: Chevy 305 HO from a mid 80’s Camaro Z28 installed by Joe White’s Performance Automotive (THE place to go back in the day) motor had to be canted and fenders pushed out to make fit. remote oil and fuel filters, extra griffin aluminum racing radiator we never installed comes with it. the motor had less than 500 miles on it when we got it, Corvette clutch and pressure plate in 3 speed manual transmission, factory twin stick transfer case, custom rear drive shaft with CV joint built by Austin Drive Train, factory dana 25 front axle with Warn premium hubs, factory dana 30 rear axle with Detroit Locker, 5.13 gears front/rear, 11″ drum brake conversion all the way around (now it stops right!) with new master cylinder at time of install …..”
The day has gotten away from me, so this will be the only post tonight….
Today I completed the welding of the cage. The below pictures show the cage prior to some grinding (and a little more welding and a little more grinding).
As I mentioned yesterday, I hadn’t decided on a paint color. So, I visited the maker of the paints (Van Sickle Paints – Tractor Paints) I have used on the frame (one thing I really like about the paints is that they have a nice thick brush on color as well as a matching spray color). It turns out, they have an ‘aluminum color‘. So, I’m gonna give the aluminum color a try (I don’t really have high hopes to be honest). The worst case scenario is I hate it; so then I’ll just paint it black.
Here’s a few pics from today:
Below is a close up of the back connectors. And in the pic below that, you can see the posts to which the back of the cage connects. There are two bolts per side. The bottom of the rollbars actually rest atop the post. The reason I built this like this was because of a problem I ran into with my last jeep: It was difficult to run the gas tank hose by the rear passenger-side cage connector. To bypass that problem this time, I’m trying this post approach.
Here’s a picture of the raw frame with the posts in the foreground, along with the middle loop platforms and front loop platforms. The round posts support the seats (the seat platform actually screws onto the top of those round posts). The round posts were invaluable in acting as a precise guide when placing the body onto the frame, keeping everything well aligned.