emailNeed to contact me and don't have my email? Click on email button.
Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3500.
“Runs good has new master cyl. new brakes, roll bar, tire mount, hitch, tow bar, has snow plow, original 4 cyl. 3,500 or obo”
I haven’t seen any race jeeps with later model bodies on them. I wouldn’t’ mind checking out a few more pics of this to see what kind of mods have been done.
“This is the ALLEY RAT pro arena truck/ short course race Jeep. Engine: Flat top 350, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, Performer RPM AIR GAP Intake, Holly 750CFM carb. Trans: Turbo 350, B&M Shift kit, Transfer case: Dana 20 DIFFS: Front Dana 44, open diff, 373 gears, Rear Dana 44, Welded rear, 373 gears. Set of 4 desert Dogs $8200.00. With the Paddle tires $9000.00”
The auction on this CJ-2A is almost up (or may be done by the time you read this). This CJ-2A has a most interesting feature, a CJ-5 body has been grafted onto the back of a CJ-2A body. I will admit, from the pics it could have ended up looking worse. The seller neglects to mention this, whether purposefully or not is unknown.
“1946 Willys CJ2A, New brake shoes,hoses, master cylinder and wheel cylinders, new fuel tank,line and carburetor, new tires, This is a clean Willys. the only thing that does not work as far as I can tell is the emergency brake. This comes with bill of sale only.”
I know the Ad says 2A, but the year suggests it’s a 3A. Nice top, tilt wheel, and other upgrades.
“1949 WILLYS CJ2A NICE! nice top, paint, interior, and good running gear 231 v6 3 spd 18 transfer warn overdrive, well built, 35″ mickeys fun rig great for mudding daily driving or whatever! 4000 cash no trade”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay
This M-38(?) was just auctioned for $5500 on Monday on ebay, so it’s no longer for sale. The strange thing to me is that it appears to be a M-38, with the glove box and the passenger side cutouts, but it doesn’t have a tail gate or the battery box on the passenger side. Anyone have thoughts on why that might be?
“This is a 1954 Willy Jeep 4×4. It’s considered a 1954 because of its chassis, however, it was restored as a 1947. It has approximately 8,000 miles on the engine and a brand new battery. This Jeep has been garaged since restoration and has a beautiful, red color. It has a 3 speed, manual transmission and again, is 4×4. It does not have a top, however, they can be purchased. A family member restored the vehicle approximately 18 years ago and recently, signed the title over to me. “
A reader just received a 1951 CJ-3A. Since the seats in it weren’t something he wanted, he asked what I had done for seats. I realized I hadn’t really covered the topic, so here’s what I did and why I did it.
As you probably know, my first jeep was built from an ex fiberglass racing jeep (oh where oh where did those pictures go). From that jeep I used the body, frame, roll cage and seats as the foundation for what became my first jeep (which I called the ‘great escape’). The fiberglass seats were mounted on a 2 1/2″ pipe that was welded to the frame. A hole was cut through the bottom of the body and the pipe stuck through the body (not only did the thickness of the body help keep the pipes from moving, but the pipes held the body in place — a nice synergistic effect). On the upper end of the pipe were threads. Onto those threads a square platform was screwed onto the pipe. The seats were screwed onto the platform. It’s a one size fit’s me approach that works for me and people of similar size. The back of the seats were then bolted to a plate that connected to a bar that was part of the rollcage. So, those seats did not move. They were solid, despite their thin profile.
Because the seats were already there and they seemed to fit me fine, I went ahead and used them as is. As I raced, drove it every day, and used it in the trails, the positioning of the seats was perfect. I felt secure and tight when I raced, I never got uncomfortable during long drives, my back never got sore, and there was enough padding for enduring the trails. For me, those were some of the most perfect driving seats I have ever used.
I like the gearing (4:10s) and disc brakes on this setup. Make sure to double check the width measurements. A Dana 30 is about 53″ wide, while the Dana 27 & 25 are 51″ wide. Here’s a site with a bunch of similar stats. Here’s more on shortening a Dana 44.
If I were to make a gearing change, I’d likely shift to 4:10s. Dad’s was 4:10s and it still rumbled down the freeway with no problems. The one nice thing about the 3:73s, which I’m running at the moment, is that they are readily available, which proved to be an asset when I discovered my R&P was broken. I picked up a used set for $15.
“i have here a 50″ or so inch wide backing plate to backing plate disk brake 44 it woill work great for a cj, willys, or a fj land cruiser or anything that is more narrow than a full size truck, im going in a diffrent direction with my project so its up for grabs thanks for looking”
Note the driver’s side cutouts. This is likely an early ’46.
“46 Willys Jeep original drive tran – up grade to motor chev V6 – floor pan repaired during recent rebuild with my Dad in 05 He is no longer able to drive jeep Call 541 490 5784 $5000 obo”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay. It’s got a low starting bid. Check out the video, but be patient as it took a while to load.
“1960 WILLY’S JEEP F150 FORWARD CONTROL 4WD. Perfect for restoration this jeep was in use until 1996. Odometer reads 24,766. When I acquired this truck a few months ago it ran great for a few days, would start right up, plenty of power and very little smoke. Then it died and before I realized the fuel pump diaphragm went I messed around with the carb. Here is a link to a 11 mg video of the Jeep in great running condition that you can download with my 12 year old son running it through our back field.”
This is an ebay buy-it-now sale. At first I thought the model year was wrong, but then I realized the body has a solid back (no tailgate). So, I believe this is a DJ-3A that has been converted to 4wd, hence the reason it sports a dana 27 front housing. The brand new fiberglass parts alone would cost at least $600. The tires and rims look fine. The body appears in good shape. It doesn’t actually say it runs, but if it does, I think this is a good price.
“This is a RUST FREE 56 willys cj 3a flat fender. It comes with a stock 283 chevy engine, t90 3 speed, model 18 t case, dana 27 front 5.38, dana 44 rear power lock 5.38 gears, roll bar, headers, NEW fiberglass front clip, tow bar, 2.5 inch lift, 10.50 31 tires, enki rims. The buyer pays all shipping or picks up in person. Thanks for looking and good luck bidding. If you have any questions please call me at 1 530 927 9827”