Monthly Archives: August 2010

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1949 CJ-3A Elmwood Park, Il eBay

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3A • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Looks good.

“!949 CJ3A for sale. I bought this from a guy in Denver. Wiring was terrible, engine compartment was a fitter’s nightmare. Body off restoration 2008. Only holes in body are the holes that belong there. Painted Potomac Gray w/ Harvard Red wheels. All parts are used Willys (all refinished). New Koker tires and tubes. New instruments- Amp, oil press, temp, fuel. speedo came with car. Rebuilt carb from 2 Carters. Rewired gen’y for 12 V. All new hoses and correct type clamps. All new cloth wiring. Wired for turn signals to rear, but wires are put away. All body hardware in place for canvas top. Lower door channels are not installed, but are included. Missing: wipers, inside mirror, rear seat, battery hold-down bracket. All vacuum lines in place, rear seat mounts are in place. Just rebuilt starter( Bendix). New battery today. New coil today. Car has sat for about a year. Started today and drove. No problem. No leaks. Most seals are new. All fluids have been changed. I’ve been using lead additive. Didn’t take engine apart. Horn is correct tone.I bought this car for $5000, invested approx $6000. I’m selling because I have a ’55 CJ5 for a daily driver, and a ’61 DJ3 for my summer fun car. I will be selling a ’67 CJ5 V6 after trans is replaced (1st gear lost 2 teeth). I haven’t put more than 500 miles on this car. This car will ship almost anywhere in cont’l US for about $650.”

View all the pics on eBay

 
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1948 CJ-2A Corpus Christi, Tx $1500

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE:  Price dropped to $1500.  New Pics added.

(11/20/09) This is a one of the “lefty” cj-2as, with the spare tire mounted on the driver’s side.  I swear I’ve seen this jeep before, but I can’t find it in my database. This ran before a bunch of work was done on it; and, there is still work left to be done.

“This is a ’48 Willys, it has been parked for over a year. Ran when it was parked. The lights have been converted to 12 volt and it has 15″ rims on it other than that it is original. I removed the wiring to replace it with more original style but have not finished this. The jeep ran good when it was parked, the tranny and transfer case have been completly rebuiltIt and the front shafts have been replaced. it has a one piece windshield frame with the glass cracked. If you want more pics email for them.”

http://corpuschristi.craigslist.org/cto/1903468771.html

1948_cj2a_corpuschristi2

 
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1948 Jeepster Springfield, Il **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Jeepster • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5200.

(06/03/2010) This looks pretty good for the price.

“1948 jeepster new top new curtains, runs good, carburator need a little work.”

 
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1953 M-38A1 Aransas Pass, TX **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: M-38A1 • TAGS: , , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was $6000.

(08/01/2010) This looks nicely restored.

“1953 Willys M38 A1 Jeep good running condition”

 
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1960 Wagon St. Louis Museum, MO **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Willys Wagons • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE:  **SOLD** Was on eBay

(07/16/2010) Here’s a nice wagon, though it’s not exactly museum quality.

“One of the very few remaining unmolested Jeep carryalls in the world!! It is just one of 485 ever built in 1960. This vehicle was sold new near Springfield, Illinois in late 1959. It got repossesed shortly thereafter and remained in storage for years. An auto Museum in Springfield purchased the Jeep in the late 1990s and kept it until the museum closed a few months ago. The vehicle is amazingly solid with an all original interior. It has been painted in it’s original color. We see very little to no evidence of major rust issues. It runs and drives and is a blast. Comes with it’s original 1959 Illinois license plates!!”

 
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1947 CJ-2A Colmesneil, Tx eBay

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE:  Back on eBay

(02/16/2010) This is a project or parts jeep.

“You are bidding on a 1947 Willys, according to identification of rear end and body style.  The engine is a Ford 6 cyl. and runs well has new starter.  This is a project so it is rough some sheet metal has been replace and the brakes do not work.  Trans seem to be in good shape, transfer case, High Low range and all gears.  Clutch operates fine.  As you can see in pictures no seats only original frames.  Gas tank is removed.  Rear hubs are welded on rears axel shafts but I do have extra shafts that have not been changed.  Frame is in good shape.  Just needs love and attention!  I have no title but will give a bill of sale.  As far as I know it is a Texas vehicle.  No shipping available but I can store as long as needed at no charge.  $ 500.00 due at close balance due in 3 days, cashiers check or money order.”

View all the pics on eBay

 
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Installing Rack and Pinion Steering on an old Willys (4 hours)

• CATEGORIES: Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE:  Sam has provided some detailed instructions (which will replace mine) and will also be sending some pics when he completes his next installation.

One idea Sam has shared with eWillys readers was the rack and pinion steering modification he has been doing.  He describes this as a pretty straight forward installation that can replace the stock steering in any flattie.  Sam says this takes him about four hours to complete. Pics are forthcoming on this modification.

Sam describes the process as follows:

1) Remove Steering: Take out the existing steering mechanism and the mounting plate.

2) Remove Drag Link: Remove drag link from old box to bell crank

3) Layout Straight Edge: With front wheels straight ahead, use a straight edge  (anything will do, I use a piece of conduit) and lay one end on the passenger side tie rod from the spindle and the other side on the frame rail directly above the drivers side tie rod end at the spindle  This will give you the approximate location for the rack and pinion.  DO NOT USE original box location as this will put the cross link through the engine block.

4) Where to Mount Vega Plate: Take the Vega box mounting plate (The plate Sam uses is this plate from Unisteer.com) and using a large C-clamp, attach to frame with the top of the plate even with the top of the frame.  This will put the mounting holes in the right place.  You will notice the top two holes are inside the opening of the frame and the third hole is below the frame as it should be.

5) Temporarily Mount Rack: The rear edge of the Vega plate should be ONE inch ahead of the line from the tie rods towards the front of the vehicle.  NOTE….at this point, it is very important to temporarily mount the rack (You may use longer bolts to clear the C-clamp).  Once mounted, move the wheels all the way to the right and make sure you have at least one inch clearance between the cross link from the Rack and the oil pan.  Do the same with turning the wheels to the left.  If you have the proper clearance, you have the right location for the mounting plate for the Rack and Pinion.

6) Weld Plate to Frame: Weld the Vega plate in place and be sure to use the supplied gusset ( I use two of them, as I have found that with one gusset, there is a chance for mount twist under harsh conditions such as four-wheeling……strongly suggest you do the same  grin grin)

7) Attach Rack and Pinion: Bolt the Rack and Pinion in place and attach the cross link to the Rack and with the Rack centered and the wheels dead ahead, mark the cross shaft for cutting allowing for the length of the tie rod end.  Now you may cut, thread, and install the tie rod. The unit Sam uses is this cross steer rack from unisteer.com (that link is dead, but this may be the one).

8) Determine Steering Rod Length: Using the conduit, determine the route from the bottom of your steering column to the Rack and Pinion.  This varies with engine and frame variations but is very simple.  Usually all that is required is to determine if the column needs to be shortened or if a double joint is needed.  At this stage, determine what your shaft is…..splined, D shape, square, etc.  This will determine which joint to use.  If round, (with roll pins) I strongly suggest you modify it to D-shape for strength. Sometimes you have to use TWO  rods from the column to the box.  If so, USE ROD SUPPORTS before and after middle joint.  You can get everything you need from Borgson Joints.  If you choose the shorten your column (to use One Rod) you can can get the necessary seal and bearing from them too.

9) Double Check Everything: Double check everything for tightness and clearance and YOU ARE DONE — smile, have a beer.

This sounds simple and it really is, I’ve done soooo many of them, that I can do it start to finish in four hours.  If anyone still needs help, just call me or Dave and I’ll be more than happy to walk you through it.  The last one I did cost $612.42 for everything,  Somewhat cheaper than regular boxes and a whole lot better looking and steering.

If properly installed, you’ll notice the steering much tighter while driving and capable of easily turning under the weight of even a V8 when parked.

 
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5 Flatties plus many parts Coos Bay, Or $6000

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A, CJ-3A This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

These are project and/or parts vehicles that I have collected but don’t know when I will be able to restore! Their condition ranges from running but needing restoration, (2), to not running but with most of the parts needed to restore including engines and running gear. 3 have titles and I will supply a bill of sale for the other 2. This will make it possible to acquire a title through a title agency if you like. I’m asking $6000.00 for everything. Reasonable offers considered!

Included are also numerous extra parts including:
1 dash/cowl/ firewall assembly
3 T18 transfer case assemblies
1 T90 transmission assembly
1 dana 30 rear differential
1 dana 25 front differential
7 bottom mount radiators and cores for CJ2A
5 windshield frame assemblies 4 for CJ2A & 1 for CJ3A
4 left fenders
6 right fenders
3 grille assemblies
2 L134 blocks
starters, generators, other odds & ends.
I have more pictures upon request.
This group lot is for sale locally and I reserve the right to cancel this listing at any time!

http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/1902985038.html

 
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1942 GPW Wake Forest, NC **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: GPW (Ford MB) • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $7000.

Needs some work still.

“1942 WWII Jeep. Ford Stamped. Rebuilt motor and transmission, brakes. Body needs work. Strong motor.”

 
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1949 CJ-3A Orleans, MA **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3A • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4800.

The seller believes this has NOT been restored.  It appears in good condition.

“Never restored original. Good Shape. Driven regulary in the summer. have soft top with doors and various extra parts. Serious inquiries only by phone. No emails. $4800”