Biscuit Research Archives

My Rebuild

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My Build — Wiring the Grille

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Today I enjoyed a productive day hunting around the local junkyard.  I collected a powerbrake setup, wire plugs, vacuum tubes, manifold connections for the vacuum tubes, gas tank rubber piping, the plastic harness that envelopes the wiring, various knobs, and much more.

One of the things I never liked about my first jeep was the rather messy way I wired it, including the way I ran the wire around the grille.  This time, I have been able to spend more time thinking about how to organize the wiring.  You can see the results below. (yeah, that’s the kitchen table — it was getting chilly outside)

As part of the trip to the junkyard, I wanted to find a headlight switch, and some accompanying switches, that I liked.  Most of the ones I found were cheap plastic or rubber.  After a good deal of searching, I found some real metal knobs on two mid 70s dodge vehicles (truck and a van).

Puzzling through the headlight switch wiring was a bit confusing, because I didn’t have a wiring schematic to follow.  At first I tried hooking up the wires in a few different ways to a battery and a voltage tester, but some of the wires still weren’t working.  After a good deal of searching, I finally found a schematic that was close enough.   I discovered from the schematic that I need to bring in two power sources, one for the headlight power and one for the parking lights/dome light/turn signal power.  Using the schematic,  I was finally able to label the wires for installation.

While searching for a wiring schematic, I came across a design for updating the lighting system using some relays.  As I understand it, for a variety of reasons, the amount of power that finally gets to the lights, especially under idle conditions, is lower than 12 volts, causing the lights to dim.  Using relays and the wiring schematic show should improve the situation.  Here’s a discussion about it.

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My Build — Oops, My Alternator Bolt is a Bit Too Long

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Well, the best laid plans… While puzzling through the charging system, I decided I needed to pull off my alternator so I could determine exactly which kind of alternator I had (Delco 10SI 63 Amp — Determine your GM alternator).  As I pulled out the long bottom bolt upon which the alternator pivots, I discovered a problem: There wasn’t enough room to pull out the bolt.  Even after clipping a hole in my electric radiator framework, I still ran directly into the radiator (see the pic to the right).  Fortunately, I discovered can undo the radiator, shift it somewhat, and then can pull out the bolt far enough to let the alternator slip away.  So, at least I have a method, though elegant it isn’t!

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My Build — Altering My Headers

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I decided yesterday to redo my headers to give the muffler a better approach angle. After searching online about how to properly do this, I came up empty.  So, I made it up as I went.

The first step required removing the headers’ collectors, because I would have to bend each pipe individually to get the right angles.  Since I had previously sawed off the headers’ triangular connection piece, I was also going to have to reattach it.

Here’s the passenger side header with the collector sawed off.  Note how the pipes angle right into the front roll cage mount.  You can also see the bar I inserted into each pipe to help bend the heated pipe downwards.

Now, with the pipe inserted, I proceeded to heat up the lower pipe with Dad’s oxy/acet setup.  I tried my best to heat up each pipe at the bend and then bending the pipe downward carefully.  Below you can see two of the three pipes bent.

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My Build — Progress: Wiring & Lights

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit, Features This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Over the past couple of days I’ve continued to make progress.  I’ve got the headlights and taillights installed.  The headlights had an unexpected complication:  It turned out the modern 5 1/2″ bulb wouldn’t sit correctly into the 50 year old mount, so I had to encourage a better fit with my grinder.

NOTE:  One set of items I don’t seem to have are front turn signals.  I’d like to find a set of the cone turn signals that I believe were on a mid 60s Willys truck like these.  If you know of any, please let me know where I can find some.

With the lights attached, I started the wiring process.  My main goal is to make it as easy as possible to unattach the body for painting or repair purposes.  So, for example, after installing the taillights I ran a flexible tube along the body using some sheet metal screws so that all the rear lighting stayed attached to body.  Anytime wiring needs to cross from the body to the frame, engine, etc, I’m trying to bridge it with some kind of plug.  So far so good.

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My Build — Painting 2

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It didn’t take me long this morning to figure out why I was having problems with the clear coat last night.  The clear coat was too thick for the sprayer, even with the reducer. So, I cut it a litter more, reducing it from 4:1 to 3.5:1.  That helped immensely.  So, I sprayed another layer of clear coat, which helped improve some of the areas I was most concerned about.

That said, I spotted a several areas on the fender from last night where the clear coat clogged and then let loose.  Fortunately, the spots are all on areas that go under the hood … whew!

This morning I spent a little more time figuring out the color problem.  After doing some research, I believe that I received Teal Green rather than Aqua Blue.  Putting the pictures I show in this post against the colors convinces me that it is Teal Green.  However, the seller of the paint is adament that I got the color I ordered. He claims the problem is that the internet colors aren’t accurate.  I think he’s full of shit.

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My Build — Painting

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As I expected, painting was an adventure.  I started the day running around to get last minute items:  a cheap paint suit, new mask cartridges, and some other misc items.  Then, I chose the paint guns I wanted to use.  After the paint cup wouldn’t come off one of the guns I selected, I audibled to the paint gun I used to paint my last jeep (I was very happy I had the backup guns).

I wiped down the body and body parts, mixed my primer, and went to work.  At first the painting went well, but after a while, the gun started acting up a little.  And, of course, I managed to spot several spots that i somehow missed during the prepping process that needed either a little filler or a little sanding.

Once the primer was on, I got a little water and some 400 grit sand paper and gently ran over the primer, cleaning up the areas as I went.

Next was the paint.  I mixed the reducer and hardener with the paint and went to work.  I got the first pass done and was relatively happy.  I waited about half an hour dand went to work again.  As I was painting the grille, which was hanging against the wall, some gray primer blew off the plastic and landed right on the grille.  While I cussed the primer, I held the gun too long near the driver side turn light area.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t tell I’d done this until later (my light was kind of iffy by that point).  After the second coat, I grabbed a light and started walking around the body parts.  That’s when I started seeing a variety of spots I hadn’t gotten.  So, with a spotlight in one hand and a spray gun in the other, I circled all the parts for another round.

After letting the paint dry, I went to the clear coat.  By now, it was dark outside and my light wasn’t good at all.  I did my best to shoot anyway, but after spraying everything, I could see there were a variety of missed spots.  So, I decided to halt and pick back up in the morning when the light would be better.

The paint ended up being darker than I expected it would be.  But, it should look good.  The pictures here don’t really capture the color well.  There are definitely a few areas I sprayed a little too heavily, but it really isn’t worth it to me to sand them down and start over.  Hey, it’s  a jeep and I plan on scratching it and being rough on it.  I expect it will need painting in a few years anyway.

One of the smarter things I did was purchase a cheap fan and purchase a cheap heater filter.  I mounted (see pic to the right) the fan in the plastic to pull air out of the paint booth and then taped the filter in front of the fan to catch the paint.  Wow! The filter got much dirtier than I thought it would.

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My Build — The Paint Booth

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I had hoped to complete painting this weekend, however sore ribs from a hit I took playing basketball slowed me down a bit.  Today, I felt a little better, so I spent the day putting together a paint booth and taping off the body.  It’s hardly state of the art or a monument to high quality design, but it will get the job done.

My friend Lary dropped by yesterday with a larger compressor and an assortment of paint guns for me to use.  He was the person who suggested a website from which to buy some paint, but rather than the Urethane he intended for me to get, I ended up with an Acyrlic Enamel.  When he discovered what I had bought, he was very concerned, as he felt it’s a more difficult paint with which to work, especially with the paint being a metallic paint.  So, the two of us hovered over the various cans and he provided me many different tips on working with the paint, suggesting which paint guns to use and more.

My next step is to make a run to home depot to get one more sheet of plastic for the floor.  Then, I’ll grab some degreaser and do one final clean up of the body parts.

Below are some pics of the paint booth:

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My Build — Front Shocks and Shock Mounts

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I stopped by Buck’s 4×4 shop here in Boise yesterday and picked up some BDS Shocks.  My measurements showed I needed a pair of shocks that had a compressed size of approx 15″ and a maximum size of approx 25″.  It only took them a few minutes to find what I needed.  Best of all, the price was right — under $100.

Now that I had shocks, I could finally create the front shock mounts, something I’ve put off for a few months. I knew I wanted something similar to what I used last time for shock mounts.  On my last jeep I took some 1/2″ steel that was 4″ wide and bent it using a 10′ tube pipe and dad’s huge vice (firmly attached to a 1000lb bench).  The result were mounts that attached to the side of the frame, rounding up and out.  I liked the effect, so for this jeep I wanted to do something similar.  Instead of the steel I used last time, I took a piece of 1/4″ x 5.5″ x 6′ piece of steel I salvaged from my sisters’ farm and created my shock mounts from that.

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My Build — Transmission Temp Gauge Adapter

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Brian sent me a great suggestion about my transmission gauge strategy.  As you might remember, the style of gauges I purchased didn’t offer a transmission temperature gauge, so I decided I could use a water temperature gauge.  So, my next question was how to do it?  It was Brian’s suggestion to use a simple ‘T’ system.  I liked the idea, so I hit Home Depot and $17 later I had what I needed.

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My Build — a little more about the wiring harness

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I got a question from a reader about the wiring harness I used.  After doing some research, I came to the conclusion that the harness I bought is probably being closed out, hence the drop in price.  After doing the research, here’s what I learned.

KICKZ Harness (this is what I received in the mail):
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=KICKZ
is a 15 fuse 38 terminal 22 circuit wiring harness.  This is what I received.  The MSRP is $388.70, you can purchase it from the Hoffman Group for $299 (web special price), you can purchase it through ez2wire (which appears to be nothing more than a pass through marketing group) for $219 regularly, and I got it via auction from ez2wire for $143 (plus shipping).  So, that’s confusing!  The KICKZ is definitely a barebones choice (no extra switches for example).

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My Build — My Gauges

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No, the painting didn’t take place this weekend.  I’m still waiting to receive my paint …

One purchase I did make yesterday was some gauges.  I decided to go with Equus gauges, 8200 performance seriesSchucks had this set of gauges for only $39.99 (not on sale), so that saved me $35 on gauges that were already reasonably priced.  So far, I’ve got a speedometer, oil pressure, voltage meter, water temperature and fuel gauge.  The only downside is that they don’t make a transmission temp gauge.  I decided that if I really want a temp gauge on the transmission fluid, then I think I can cheaply adapt a water temp gauge to measure the temp of the fluid as it flows from the tranny to the tranny cooler.  I simply need to create a box that the fluid flows through into which I can screw the temp sensor (there seems to be no default place to put a temp gauge into a TH350).

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My Build — Wiring Harness

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Hurray!  My wiring harness arrived today, taking only 3 days to get here.  I pulled the harness out of the package and checked out the wiring.  It looks like the wiring is heavy duty enough for my needs.  The lengths appear reasonable and everything looks organized.

Painting update:  I just got an email that my paint has finally shipped.  I suspect that, unless it arrives by saturday, I’ll be delaying the painting I hoped to do this weekend.  I’ve got the hood, fenders and grille ready for paint.  The body is about 90% ready.  Everything should be ready by tomorrow.

You can learn more about this harness here

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