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About eWillys
Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
“It been added to from other jeeps. Runs and drives. I think the moter is out of a 48. Also have a top and doors soft. I Know who used to own it. It’s never had a title. I have bill of sales. We can write one up if you want it. It’s been a farm truck all its life.”
The 1948 looks solid, but the drain holes appear filled. The 1946 needs some work (no parking lights for example), so to call it “perfect running and driving condition” seems a stretch.
“Two Willys Jeeps CJ-2A One is a 1948 and one 1946 Both 2nd owner and sat 40 years.
Both Perfect Running and Driving Condition. Asking $13,500.00 for the Green Jeep which is all original, $12,500.00 For Brown Jeep which has had a newer motor installed.
Will sell both as package for $22,000.00”
“67 year old Jeep in very solid and original condition. Previous owner of 42 years stored inside and has been well maintained. Very straight, solid, and practically rust free. Good TN ‘yellow’ title.
The original 4 cylinder engine has been upgraded in the 1970’s to a 62-64 Buick V6 199 cu. in. Jeep has also been converted to 12 volt; steering box has been converted to a Saginaw; and 9″ Jeep brakes converted to Ford 11″ brakes. 3-4 inch lift kit installed via new springs. 12-15 tires and wheels. Original 3 speed transmission, 2 lever transfer case, and differentials. Original dash and instruments. Windshield glass good, original frame. Original tailgate. Seats very good but not original. Good soft top and doors included.
Recently done is new battery, tune up parts, fluid change, carb rebuild, and complete brake rebuild.
Runs, drives, and stops good. 4WD works.
Great full restoration candidate, or enjoy as is.
If ad is up, still for sale. Possible trades on FJ40, FJ60.”
Marty shared this one. Looks like some parts value here. Seller didn’t know year, but the VIN indicates it is a 1959.
“Late 50s Willys jeep needs a lot of work but be a cool project or parts. It’s all original as far as I know motor is stuck does not run. looking to get ”
“1984 CJ5 350 Project. Build your own crawler or toy with these components. Everything except engine and wheels are included. Straight body, no dents, a little rust here and there, but manageable. Frame, body parts, windshield, running gear, tranny, transfer case, etc. all inclusive. ”
We made it to Seattle a couple days ago. I made some more progress blasting some smaller parts yesterday. In order to blast the t-handle parking brake, I had to disassemble it. The last thing to remove was a screw/pin so I could remove the brake lever from its housing. I didn’t know whether to unscrew or press out the screw/pin, but as I examined iI felt pretty sure it should press out. Still, I thought it best to text a friend: Chris McKay. He said he thought it was pressed out, too. So, I set out to remove the pin.
Here is what the brake looks like assembled.
Here’s the top of the pin:
This shows the back side. I had to line up the hole in the housing with the back of the pin:
I grabbed a small socket to catch the pin and an object that could press through the hole: