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About eWillys
Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
“1948 Willys CJ-2A. Run and drives good. Motor was completely rebuilt a year and a half ago. New brake lines, master cylinder new brakes. New radiator, New clutch pressure plate and bearings. 4×4 works, and high/low transfer case works. Has complete top, doors are off in picture. Don’t have time to finish restoring. Jeep does not have title. Will come with bill of sale, shouldnt be any issue to re-title.”
“46’ Willy. Rolling chassis. The tub is in wonderful condition.  NO motor or trans. NO paperwork as is Located in oakhurst firm on price you’re more than welcome to make an offer. No low ballers.”
UPDATE: Thanks go to Floyd for updating this post about the jeep monument in Loreto, Baja, Mexico. Sadly, it appears this jeep is no longer sitting on the cement pad shown in the pictures from Guillermo De Lara (see at bottom). Instead, it’s sitting in someone’s backyard. Floyd didn’t get a chance to see what’s currently sitting on the pad (if still there) and Google Earth still shows the jeep at that spot.
Here are Floyd’s pics. He was visiting Loreto for 10 days and walked past the jeep multiple times, but didn’t notice it due to the leaves and dark backyard.
Using Google Earth, I screen captured these two pics. So, now we have a better idea of where this was located when sitting on the cement slab of the monument.
Just a few updates today. The cows were involved in some shenanigans when I switched around their Hotwire, which dashed my hopes to provide updates. So, blame the cows!
Over the past few days I was able to finally clear out the wiring. I expect the under dash area to be this free of wiring when I’m finished. I also want the dash to be as easily removable as I can make it.
I also removed the gauges and extra wide mirror across the top of the windshield (don’t have a good before-pic). I wanted to free the top of the windshield for some sun visors for those drives into the late evening sun.
Still to be built is a piece the bolts under the dash, wraps around the steering column, and attaches to the other side of the dash. That will be a challenge for me (I think a stock piece might be too small?)!
SPEEDOMETER QUESTIONS:
In my quest to preserve some sense of stock-ness to the cab, I am hoping to learn more about the the stock speedometer’s features as possible. But, I do have some questions.
These questions refer to this Stewart Warner 0-9 speedometer:
MATCHING GAS GAUGE AND SENDER. Given the stock gas gauge reads from 73 ohms empty to 10ohms full, while the Ford tank sender varies from 16 ohms empty to 158 ohms full, I have a great mismatch. If I want to use the stock gas gauge, which I’d prefer, I could try changing the sender. Or, I could try manipulating the resistance by adding resistors. I don’t want to do either of those things. Instead, I ran across this product called “MeterMatch” by Tanks, Inc.. Anyone familiar with it??
This has an f-head. It also has the same hydrovac brake booster as Patterson did (Mine still needs restoration).
“Project! Willys flat fender that my family bought in 1970. It was a daily driver until 1980 when the engine (not the original engine) was seized. It needs a new motor.It has sat on the side of the house since then. Pink slip/title in hand”
Tom shared this MB. Seller can include a Bantam Trailer. Needs some work still, but looks promising.
“1945 Jeep Willys 1945 Willy’s was my brother and he owned 3 I am selling this due to his passing ? Willling to sell to the highest offer have wait for appraiser but I have an idea so offers considered needs some finishing on engine . I have tons of jeep parts in house and basemt t can add bantam trailer in great shape if the offer is good”
“Runs, drives, stops, plows(kinda). Needs battery. Frame is very solid. Body isnt in very good condition but not horrible and floor is decently solid. Had 290 v8 put in at one point and i have no idea the mileage. It leaks coolant from the radiator cap and hydraulic fluid from one of the plow hoses but you can just take the plow off cause it’s not very useful. I just put a new fuel pump in it. It’s a 3 speed manual that shifts into all gears easily. It’s old as hell so it’s obviously not perfect. I was told that most its life it was just a farm truck. I got it as a project but i have too many going on and need to clear some vehicles off the property. I have the title from the previous owner and bill of sale. Would like it gone sooner rather than later so shoot me an offer. (i have the door for the back but it’s missing a hinge so i took it off)”
There were lots more internet searches, measurements, and disassembly over the past two days. One of my goals is to have the option to put in an original heater into the heater space, so keeping that area free has been a goal. In keeping with that, I decided to remove the power switch and put it in the spot where the vacuum hub switch was located (Just to the right of the driver’s seat). Meanwhile, the hub vacuum switch is removed and sitting temporarily on the engine; it will eventually go near the transfercase shifter to make it clear they work together.
Here’s where the switches were originally located:
Here’s another diagram. Here I have test-installed the switch, which fills the hole left by the vacuum switch, but sits lower than the vacuum switch. Meanwhile, I’ve mocked up how the transfercase lever should look once it is installed, with an arrow showing approximately where the vacuum switch will land next to the shifter.
Moving the power switch shortens the run from the battery and starter to the switch, it also cleans up the area behind the grille. In addition, when looking through the grill from the front you could see the wiring crossing the tunnel to the bottom of the switch.
Yesterday, I spent time staring up at the tunnel area from the ground, measuring tape in hand, pondering and plotting. I discovered that the water pump fan, used in this case to cool the transmission cooler, will not allow any of the after-market transfercase shifters to fit. Given the fan doesn’t really align all that well with the cooler anyway, I have decided to get a transmission cooler-electric fan combo. I can position in under the tunnel in a way that is more flexible.
So, things seem to be coming together. I still want to find a place for the extra gauges and am pondering a 4-in-1 gauges which will be a more compact and less obtrusive option, but haven’t found one that satisfies the specs.
