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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: This was originally posted back in January of 2020:
This August 1955 article in Popular Mechanics includes 2 CJ-5s. It took a nuclear scientist to locate the article (long story), but it dove tails nicely off yesterday’s Willys News post that included an article on uranium mining (last page of Willys News) about these two prospectors.
UPDATE: Price dropped to $11,500.
(04/12/2013) It reminds me of the San Juan Scenic Jeep Tour wagons.
“Willys 2 door wagon converted to Surry. 4cyl. F engine 4×4 converted to12v. 3 speed overdrive new tires needs nothing. Also comes with rear enclosure for back that matches top. Very fun always garaged. Price is O.B.O. will accept best cash offer. if its posted its for sake no b.s. no tirekickers”
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/275285585513826/
I spent the last two days rewiring the switch and control boxes. That turned out fine, but the well pump is still only responding in bits. I believe it to be the well pump itself. So, on Monday I’ll be getting the pump folks out here.
Meanwhile, we initiated operation pasture-water-to-garden-system. Well, that might not have the best mission title, we did successfully tap into an irrigation line we weren’t using anymore and use it to push water to our garden watering systems. This will make our watering tasks much simplified again (and by “our” I mean Ann’s).
Here’s the manifold I built today. This irrigation junction used to water a portion of the pasture with unground sprinklers, but we removed that line of sprinklers in favor of a pod watering system, which we like.
Here is where the hoses are going:
And, as you can see, all that work is worth while, because Ann gets to use her Country Jacuzzi (aka a cattle trough). Losing the water hasn’t all bad 🙂
Oh joy of joys! Yesterday our well pump stopped working. I called the pump service folks to diagnose the issue, but they couldn’t get me on the schedule until Tuesday. Ugh.
So, instead of working the FC, or anything else, I have been taking crash courses in learning how the our well pump system works (thank YouTube) at the wiring/capacitor/relay/switch level. After exploring the box with my voltmeter, in the pump control box I diagnosed a bad capacitor, so that was progress, but couldn’t readily locate one near me for sale, so I ended up buying a new pump control box and rewiring it in place. That went well (unintended pun). The pump started, but doesn’t continue running (starting the pump differs from running the pump amperage wise).
My next idea was to check out the box below the pump. It contained two switches, controlled by different mechanisms, that turns on and off the electricity to the pump control box. It’s a box I’ve never opened (never needed to open). I was pretty shocked at the condition of the connectors; the leads are corroded and/or bad (see closeup). It may be the case that the corrosion is effecting the ability to feed the pump with enough amperage. So, Friday morning’s task is to locate new switches, then redo the wiring in the box. Fingers crossed this works!
Thankfully, we have access to the neighbor’s well, via multiple hoses, so we can fill pots with water, keep our cows watered, and water the garden.
Upper right box is the new one (cover off). Lower left box is the next project.
Yikes!
Continued progress …
While much of the nation is getting hotter, our Pac Northwest weather is absolutely beautiful, with highs in the low 70s to high 80s over the next week. I’m making good progress on the Tour Jeep, so will focus on that rather than eWillys updates for the remainder of the week. Moreover, our internet has been dogged with slow download speeds all day; not sure why that is.
I had hoped to get to the brakes over the weekend, but instead of receiving a braking flaring kit, I was sent a refrigeration flaring kit. The difference is the refrigeration kit doesn’t include the parts to make double or bubble flares. So, I set that kit back and ordered another one. I hope to address the brakes Tuesday afternoon.
One thing I realized I didn’t have was a wiring schematic for an FC-170. I found a couple things online, but not what I was hoping to find. Then I remembered that back in 2013 I won a printed FC-170 schematic sign. So, that FC-Roundup door prize finally came in handy!
Once the wire weave arrives, I’ll be able to finally run the wiring. So, hopefully by later this week I’ll have most of the wiring in place.
Progress on the FC continues, of course slower than I’d like. First up, I’ve located a local upholstery shop that’s supposed to be good with vintage automobile stuff, so will be taking the seats to them and seeing what they can do. Thanks to Steve, I also have a line on patterns from a shop he worked with in Iowa, so that may save some money, too.
I’ve begun installing things on the FC. First up was the parking lights, then the new electric wiper motor. For a central ground, I’m using the old parking brake bracket, which will also hold a bracket for the brake MC remote reservoirs, which sit under the dash (no pics of that just yet).
Next I installed the brake MC and pedal bracket. One thing that I never tested (oops) was wether the existing brake nuts fit the new Wildwood MC (Of course they were a different size .. ugh). I will either use adapters or cut and reflare the lines with new, smaller brake nuts (most likely I’ll do the latter).
I hate it when my nuts are too large!
While I waited on solving the brake nut issue, I decided to work on installing the e-brake. One known issue was that the original Explorer body mount had to be removed, which I was okay with because I want the body mounts to be aligned with the bed’s front two roll bar loops, so I’d planned to move them anyway.
Now the challenge is to connect the 1/4″ finely threaded bolt from the ebrake to the original parking brake cable end. I want the solution to be adjustable (be able to turn the nut to tighten or loosen slightly) and I think I have found the answer in the form of a Dorman e-brake bracket. But, we’ll see how it fits …
This shows the body mount in the foreground having been removed from the frame.
This shows the bolt (with nut) from the e-brake vis-a-vis the stock parking brake bracket (which is actually broke, so needs to be removed anyway). The circle shows the location where the roll cage crosses the frame, so clearance will be necessary to allow the e-brake to work (Prob hole in the bracket).
Finally, since the FC is already equipment with a hitch receiver and since it might be handle to be able to a trailer with it. One of my pet peeves is crazy wiring splices in the back of vehicles to allow for towing. So, I’ll be running wires to a terminal block at the rear which I can use to add a 4 of 7 pin plug if need be. the bracket is built and ready to be mounted. The wires will then be color coded to a typical RV 7-pin setup, but I need to confirm our trailers are wired that way.
I expect more progress over the weekend.
John spotted a Wagoneer in the 1963 movie, Man’s Favorite Sport, which stars Rock Hudson and Paula Prentiss. If you have. subscription to Amazon Prime, you can watch it for free.
I’ve never seen the movie, but John describes it as a “it is a ’60s take on ’30s “Screwball”. Best of all, he says “it isn’t terrible”. How could you pass up the movie with a review like that :-).
The Wagoneer would have only recently been released to appear in January 1063 movie, so the may be one of the earliest appearances for the newly styled Jeep. The snout of a second Wagoneer also appears. Look for it in the campground scene (see pic below). You can see some still shots from the movie. at https://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_185640-Jeep-Wagoneer-SJ-1963.html.
UPDATE: This brochure is one of three for sale as a part of the this 3-brochure eBay auction.
View all the information on eBay
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Originally posted September 25, 2020:
This brochure has a form number of CJ3A-M1-250M-9-49, which seems to indicate it was published in September of 1949. Some of the art for this brochure was completed a year and a half earlier for a newspaper ad (see bottom of post).
UPDATE: This was first posted March 20, 2018.
This post began as a reference to a Farm Collector article about Jeep Loaders by Jim Gay. It turns out that there were several loaders that weren’t included. Below you’ll find the most complete list I’ve been able to assemble.
FARM COLLECTOR ARTICLE:
Thursday and Friday I finally painted the interior. The color is rattle-can Red Apple Gloss. It nearly matches the exterior color, but is slightly brighter. As noted before, it’s literally just some lipstick to clean up what was there and to help preserve the metal a little longer before I can get the cab removed for a proper media blast, repairs, and paint.
After paint:
