UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $650.
(01/03/2011) “1949 Willys Jeep, needs complete restoration.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $29,000.
(11/30/2010) Bob spotted this really nice original restoration. I’d like to see some better pics. I also really like the color scheme. I do have a couple minor, really minor detail questions pertaining to originality. Wouldn’t the bezels have been painting the body paint color (though I think they look better in black)? Also, wouldn’t the rear bumper have had the dropped PTO connector angle (though I like the looks of the bumper that was installed on this)?
“Early production column-shift model 20670.
Ground-up restoration to original condition. The jeep has the original 134 cid in line 4-cylinder engine, column-shift T90 3-speed manual transmission and transfer case. Every piece on this classic Jeep has been disassembled, media blasted and rebuild, reconditioned, or replaced to achieve its as new condition. This Willys has been finished in the correct Harvest Tan color with the corresponding orange wheels. ”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was 800.
(01/03/2011) Real rough but really runs.
“1954 willys jeep 4×4, 4 cyl. F-head, overhead valves, runs good, 4 wheel drive works good, no brakes, headlights work, windshield has hole busted in it, just an old jeep with typical maintenence needed, could use some new points, plugs etc, had it on my deerlease for yrs, replaced with 4 wheelers, need to sell it,has hi and low range with 3 spd tranny, tires has decent tread but dry rotted, good enough for off roading though, gas tank is a “6 gallon boat tank” sitting in the back, make a good deer lease or farm/ranch vehicle, no title, might be able to track it down though, i dont know, selling as is, will start and drive onto your trailer, remember “no brakes” lol, thanks for looking. Location is Lufkin Tx, about 120 miles north of houston and 80 miles south of tyler tx”
It was sometime around mid-summer of last year (maybe earlier) when I started the project to place ‘Lost Biscuit’ on the hood of my jeep. It took a little longer than expected, but I finally did it.
First I had to decide which font to use. Fortunately, I got some very helpful input along the way from Dexter (thanks) and eventually decided upon the Marker Felt font. Okay, that was pretty easy.
Now, how to get the name on the hood. After hmming and haaaing over how I wanted to attach the name (hand drawn, stickers, stencils, pay someone else … ), I finally decided I would do it myself using paint. But, I knew my freehand drawing and painting skills froze around the 2nd grade, so this wasn’t something I could improvise. Since I had no immediate solutions, I decided to put the project on hold (which explains the delay).
One day this past December I was watching American Restoration on the History Channel. The American Restoration show is a spinoff of sorts from the Pawn Stars show and follows various restoration projects from Ricks Restoration out of Las Vegas. In one of the episodes, called Buttered Up (you can view it here), Rick restores an old popcorn machine.
To repaint the front of the popcorn machine, the painter used a technique that dates back centuries called pouncing. Pouncing? My ears perked up!
Pouncing? Never heard of that. As usual, my computer was on my lap so I instantly googled pouncing. I learned,
Pouncing is where pounce — loose graphite or charcoal — is rubbed through a series of small holes punched in a paper pattern to transfer the design to an item to be decorated
Well, I thought that would work for Biscuit’s name. After some more research, I found out that quilters use pouncing for some stitch patterns. So, the next day I hit some quilt stores. As you can imagine, the conversation went something like this,
“Hi, I’m here because I want to paint a name on my jeep,” says I.
Blank stare from cashier, “what do you need?”
“I need stuff for pouncing” says I, remembering now that I probably had not shaved, maybe, not even showered, and most likely wasn’t quite dressed like customers they normally help (however, to my credit, I didn’t have on my garage jeans).
Another blank stare, “you want to do what?” I think she even had her finger ready to dial ‘9’ (and then ‘1’ ‘1’)
It turns out, not everyone knows what pouncing is, even at the quilt stores. Eventually, after visiting a couple quilt stores, I found what I needed (you will see my pouncing supplies in a picture below).
Here’s the synopsis of this project.
1. Design and Print the template. Then, since I didn’t have a good awl, I created my own awl out of tape, a chopstick and a long push pin.
2. Next, I attached the template to a piece of cardboard. Then, I poked holes around the outer edge of all the letters.
3. With the letters outlined, I tested out the template on different materials to make sure it worked. It turns out pouncing is pretty easy!
4. Selecting paint was the next step. So, I visited my local art supply store and explained to them what I wanted. They directed me to an Acrylic Titanium White Tube from Windsor Newton. Along with the paint, they also suggested an acrylic spray on sealer and finisher from Americana. I took the paint home and tested it on different materials. At first, I didn’t like it, because it wasn’t as smooth as the typical oil based house paint I had expected. Instead, it had texture like a canvas artist would want. But then, after staring at it a bit, I warmed to the texture, because it gave the name a hand generated feel.
5. Yesterday, with the weather a little warmer, it was time to paint the name. I got out my template, my paint, and my pouncing supplies. I taped the template to the hood and prepared to pounce.
Over the course of my tests, the technique I found most successful for pouncing was not tapping the pouncer, but rather dragging it slowly across the holes. This kept the paper from popping up and blurring the dots underneath.
The pouncing equipment consists of a pouncer with a ‘handle’ on one side and a soft side on the other. There’s also a plastic container that can hold pounce. Lastly, there is the white chalk.
6. Now it’s time to paint. I put three coats on each side. This image was taken after the first coat.
This is after three coats.
There is still some small edges that need cleaning up. Once I do that, I’ll spray it and hopefully that will protect it!
I thought this was worth a laugh. Yeah, the price is $1000!
“I have an original 1947 willys heater that i want to sell. i was told its worth a thousand dollars. any questions please email me”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1900
This has a fiberglass body.
“My loss is your gain!!!!! To many projects not enough time time for this to go. Use the parts on your jeep or finish this one. No title bill of sale only File folder of receipts and GPW literature.
1942 Willy’s/Ford GPW frame sand blasted repaired and quick black epoxy spray job
GPW Grill, headlights and hood (classic look)
Kevlar/fiberglass Shell Vally Tub and fender (ok Shape) Some holes miss drilled on the interior
2 Blow molded racing tub seats and covers
full Roll bar 90% done
New single piece windshield frame and the original 3 piece frame needs work
Go Devil 4 Engine runs great new Carburetor and gaskets, Re-cored radiator, Centech wiring harness, Saginaw steering conversion,
New transmission, rebuilt transfer case,
New Warn Premium Hubs,
New steering knuckles-kingpins and seals.
New 11″ drum brake conversion, and master cylinder
New Rancho springs and shocks, Con-Fer shackles
Rebuilt drive shafts
Set of 5 Autometer gauges”
Includes a rear PTO. No pics provided.
“For sale is a Willys CJ-3A jeep. No title, no motor. Body is fair, frame is pretty good. No seats. I was going to rebuild it, but, too many projects “on the fire”,,, I also have a bunch of Willys parts for sale, including flat head motor,(would work in this CJ-3A) rear PTO, body parts (for CJ-2A and CJ-3A, and a few CJ-5), small parts, seat frames, parts for a M-38A1, a fully rebuilt flat head motor, small parts, gas tanks, gauges, rear draw bars, roll bars,,, Love to sell it all as a package.. I am also planning on selling some restored CJ-5’s in time. Thanks !”
UPDATE: ** SOLD**A reader named Mark purchased this rig.
This seller must sell. There’s some value here. I can’t tell whether it is a CJ-5 or M-38A1.
“This jeep is a 2 owner. My neighbor used it for 50 yrs to plow the Court House but got sick and didn’t have a chance to restore it cause he died . He wanted me to have it but I’ve got to go to Phoenix for a heart surgery myself so I’m forced to sell. We ran a rubber gas line into a gas can and jumped the starter and it fired right up and we drove it home. It needs some TLC but did come with a plow and its a project that can pay for its self. It needs body work. I really would love to keep it and pull it behind my motor-home but cant. I have additional pics if interested. I really don’t want to part it out and would like to know it restored. I haven’t changed the title over cause its the oldest title Ive ever seen. ”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2000.
This looks in good condition.
“I’m selling my 1960 Jeep CJ-5. It is a 4 cylinder 3 speed stick and has the twin stick transfer case. It runs well, drives well, all the lights work, 4×4 works great, no heater, no radio… New seats, new windshield frame, new 31″ tires, top was replaced a few years ago… very solid Jeep. This is an old Jeep, which means no power steering, no power brakes, it is pretty much a tractor with a top lol. It cruises at 50 mph all day long and thats about top speed for these old beauties. The Jeep is not perfect but is well worth my asking price of $2000 drive it home send me an email or text me at 6o3 995. 9378 Nate”
UPDATE: Was $3000. **SOLD**
This might make a good project.
‘1953 Jeep CJ-3b
This Jeep is very original. It was purchased by me in Western NC from a man who purchased from the original owner. It was a farm Jeep and has very low mileage considering its age. I looked at 12 other 52-53 Jeeps before I decided to buy this one.
This is why I chose this Jeep:
The bad stuff:
typical rust, but not tons of it- most panels can be fixed easily as everything is flat
no top, but it does have the top frame, and one door
brakes need to be adjusted- the rear wheels lock up under heavy braking
the carb is new but it floods easily- I suspect the needle and seat assembly-some fuel lines need to be rerouted
typical decay of the original wiring harness
needs muffler welded on (I have a muffler)
brake lights are non-original and not working
seats need to be recovered
The good stuff:
it is 99% original
low miles 45K
the motor runs great
the differential works great
the tranny works great
the steering gear works great
the frame is solid
the tires are brand new (have receipt)
wheels were shot peened and painted with urethane (have receipt)
new front window (have receipt)
just about every part imaginable is available with a mouse click or a phone call
it just looks cool
I am selling this , because I have way too many projects , and this would be a great and easy project for someone. I have over $3000 in the Jeep. I will accept reasonable offers. I do not want any trades, as I do not need a divorce. Payment will need to be in cash.
( I am also selling a 1994 Jeep YJ with a 258, ps, pb, Sahara package, new sailcloth top, AM-FM CD, 7″ total lift on good BFG 33’s, Motorcraft 2100 carb swap–needs tuning, needs some work on the CAD front axle actuator as the vacuum nipple broke off $4 part—the paint is very nice with very little rust–witha few more dollars this could be a really nice Jeep—–$4200–I have $5600 in the Jeep—I’ll post pictures soon)”