UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1900
“1961 Jeep Willys Pickup Project. Color is Blue. 6 Cylinder. Was running when parked years ago. Needs some glass but a good truck to start your project with!”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1900
“1961 Jeep Willys Pickup Project. Color is Blue. 6 Cylinder. Was running when parked years ago. Needs some glass but a good truck to start your project with!”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1000.
Here’s a jeep needing a new body according to the seller.
“1947 Willys CJ2A. Needs Restoration. Tub is shot so it will need a tub. Drivetrain is complete and Frame is solid. Need to sell!! $1,000.00 O.B.O.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3000.
I *think* the body is rough, but I can’t really tell for sure from these pics. It appears this is pretty stock. It includes a plow.
“Up for sale is a family heirloom…1951 Willys Jeep CJ-3with plow set-up! $3,000.00 obo. Dealer motivated to sell”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1000.
(08/06/2010) Here’s a rough jeep.
“1953 Willies Jeep CJ3A or M38. Needs Restoration. Comes with F Head Industrial Engine, original seats, gaudges, radiator, generator, spare carb, new bushing kit for suspension, new front bumper, tail gate and another front axle with locking hubs. (not shown in photos). I also know where to get more parts.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $500
(08/13/2010) The windshield isn’t original, but most everything else could be. This might make a good parts jeep.
“All original needs points and rotary button and needs brake work”ad=5280489
When I built my first jeep, I used the gas pedal from a CJ-5. It was fine for driving around on flat smooth roads, but when I hit a bump, my foot tended to flop against it, which meant I would accelerate unintentionally. It was just too sensitive an arrangement (dad used a CJ-5 pedal in his CJ too and had the same problem).
Eventually, I found a solution to the pedal problem. However, it took a bad day of racing to get there ….
Early in the Spring of 1985 I was at a PNW race competing in a team relay event somewhere north of Everett, Wa. I remember the conditions clearly: It was cold, it was damp, and it was rainy.
Jim, Tim, and Steve Carter and I teamed up for the relay event. Between us we had three jeeps (my jeep, Otis and Priority I — or maybe II or III — I can’t keep track of all the Priority versions …).
It seems to me we advanced to the first round with no issues. However, during the second round, things went awry. Frankly, the precise details of how the rest of the race played out have faded with time. What I do remember is this; First, my front driveline broke as I made my way around the course. Then, when driving Priority, I broke its front drive line. Finally, when driving Otis, I was trying to drive carefully as I REALLY, REALLY didn’t want to break another driveline. At one point I got a little stuck (it was really muddy) and thought I had broke it (ugh!). Fortunately I didn’t … I was perfectly happy to stop racing that day (we got eliminated in the 3rd round I think).
I tell this story, because while racing Otis, I noticed that my foot didn’t bounce and nor did the pedal no matter what bumps I encountered. It was solid, yet the pedal depressed when necessary.
Later in the day, after racing, I looked at Otis’ pedal and discovered Jim had set it up so that the there was a roller behind the pedal. While more complicated than the normal pedal, it really improved the ability to keep driving and accelerating smoothly over bumps.
So, I implemented that in my first build and loved the results. I had hoped to implement the same thing in Biscuit using a classic foot shaped pedal like the Moon Aluminum Pedal. However, I couldn’t justify the cost (read here that my budget was getting tight), so I implemented what I call Version 1.0 of the pedal.
Using some aluminum plate I already had, I drew the shape of my foot onto the plate, cut it out, and then shaped it with my grinder. Then, I went down to a locate skateboard shop and purchased some skateboard covering (sandpaper-like on the front and sticky on the back). I cut the covering into the shape of the foot and stuck it onto the plate. It isn’t beautiful, but it works well.
I’d like to clean up some of the rough edges in Version 2.0. Below are some pics and a highly(?) technical schematic.
BTW, that race was the last day I broke a driveline. I’ve never had a problem since.
If you are in the LA area, this might be fun.
“I would like to invite everyone to the seventh annual Wrightwood Jeep and Willys Day event that will be held on Saturday, October 9, 2010 in the beautiful mountain town of Wrightwood, California from 9:00am to 4:00pm.
This event is completely FREE and a great time for all.
They close down the main street through town and from approximately 9am until 2pm all the Jeeps and Willys fill the street almost like a car show but more of a meet and greet. Then, at around 2pm everyone takes a parade style run somewhere in the local mountains, returning to town by around 4pm. (Exact destination of the run, not yet determined). Parking in the participation area is reserved for any Jeep or Willys vehicle. However, there is plenty of parking for others and all spectators are welcome!”
UPDATE: Was Make Offer. **SOLD**
This has an extended wheelbase.
“I am selling my 1948 CJ2A Willy’s Jeep. Its two wheel drive with a ford 9 inch rear end Turbo 400 transmission with trans cooler and a Chevy Crate motor that make 350 Horse Power, a hand made Continental Radiator that can handle a big block, as well as the engine compartment as well all made to take a Chevy big block. Coil over suspension, 3 link in the back and a 4 link in the front with a solid postal front end. Custom ice chest and storage bin for easy access and all of your gear. The fiber glass body is unfinished but that allows you to customize it to your own design and color. The roll cage is mounted to the frame, and the wheel base has been extended to make the ride more smooth in the sand, I have had it on a few trips and it runs great. I have a set of Street Tires BFG’s and a full set of Sand Tires as well. I would like to sell it all together so please make me an offer as the season is starting. I also have a willy’s front windshield that would be included if you want to retro fit it. Clear title and paid registration”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6444
I don’t think I’ve seen a top that doesn’t have side windows.
“This is a great little Jeep!! Chevy 350, 3spd ( T-90), 4×4, 4wd, New Carpet, New Top, New Brakes, New Carb, New Master cylinder, New Tires, New Axle seals, Ready to go!!!!”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2400.
The price looks good for this flattie. The paint job looks like one of a kind.
“Runs well. Great hunting rig. Transmission and Transfer case recently professionally rebuilt. $2400 obo. E-mail for phone number or additional pictures.”