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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3800.
Looks like it’s has some work on the sides.
“ihave a 1947 willys jeepfor sale. it is alloriginal. it is a 4 cyl original motor.it does run and drive well. this jeep willgo anywhere. the 4wd works great,it isa manual 3 spd with overdrive added on. it ha been converted to a 12 volt system. it also comes with a brand new tigertop . it also has doors with the top for winter.it also has heat. if you have any questions just give me a call.”
UPDATE: Still Available.
(07/28/2015) Has some updates. Looks like a good price.
“Great piece of history. 1949 CJ-3A Willys. This custom Jeep is ready to roll. Street legal and amazing off road. All original drive train with a Chevy 350 engine, roll bar, and lock out hubs. New gas tank, upgraded LED tail lights, and a tow bar to haul it to your favor hunting spot or off-road trail. ”
http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/5276675688.html
Appears solid.
“1958 jeep willys wagon all wheen drive 4wd 4×4 check it out runs new water pump etc.”
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/5274996754.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1000.
It’s a project.
Parts vehicle.
“WILLYS CJ2A This jeep could be restored but most likley best used for parts.All parts are there engine does not turn over and it does not roll.I have paper work for it.”
http://albany.craigslist.org/cto/5275693544.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5900. Still not sure what it is.
“We are not quite sure what to call this vehicle. It probably started out as a Willys Americar, then was transformed into it’s present shape by a Cal Poly welding professor (or so the story goes). It has a 4-cylinder flathead engine that turns freely and a stick shift transmission. Notice the custom dash in the pics. There is a small trunk with a spare on the back. Still has the black license plates, so we can assume that it was driven on the highway at some point in it’s life. Would make a real cool run-about or ranch vehicle. Has the original hubcaps. Will need lots of TLC to get it back on the road, but what a hoot – friends will love it. We are certain that it is the only one of it’s kind in the world. I am William of bidslo.com and you can find all sorts of other fantastical vehicles on our website. Have a great day.”
No pics provided.
“1946 Willys CJ2 jeep. Needs full restoration. I have put new brake lines, brake cylinders, motor mounts and done some work to the frame and chassis. Mostly disassembled right now. Buyer must pick up.”
UPDATE: Still Available. Was no price. Now $800.
(09/02/2015) No description or pics.
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5000.
(05/25/2015) “willys mb , not all original parts,motor is an m38 engine,drive train t84 transmission,dana18 transfer,dana 27 and 25 axles,floorboards are hand crafted and does not have well for gas tank,seats are hand made close to original,gas tank is square body about 8 gallon capacity..instruments in the dash work except for amp gauge, but runs and drives”
Colin bought a Hickey aluminum cylinder head to modify his 1960 Surrey, but ran into some problems with it. Below he describes the changes he made, the problems he encountered, and his current solution. Thanks for sharing Colin!
I started a hop-up project on our Surrey that involved the installation of a 1950s Nick Hickey aluminum cylinder head for the L-134. That morphed into the fabrication of a dual carb setup using two intake manifolds with a balance tube an F Head exhaust manifold that a very good friend, Steve Mason, and I fabricated out of an old manifold supplied by Jim Sullivan.
The first issue was the two new Weber carbs. They were supposed to be synchronized and jetted the sam, but weren’t. That led to the rear carb dumping extra fuel into #s 3&4, resulting in a blown head gasket which dumped coolant into those cylinders.
Hickey head top and bottom.
Took it all apart, rejetted the carbs and had the head resurfaced. I finished buttoning everything up and fired it up. adjusted the carbs slightly, running smooth, then noticed coolant in the #2 spark plug recess. Shut it off, pulled all plugs, could see coolant in #2, and steam coming from what must be a crack in the threads.
When I had the engine running previously I did not have water pooling in the plug basins. Upon looking at the plugs, the electrodes indicated the possibility of them coming in contact with the valves. Took a very hi intensity flashlight and looked into the cylinders and at least two of the valves I saw the imprint of the electrode on the valves.
So my theory is this:
I had the head resurfaced and in that process, the machine shop used an epoxy to smooth the surface indentations( corrosion?), and then did the resurface. The plugs I had used were nearly new from the original head. Those electrodes did not extend into the combustion chamber. The machine shop( guys who do a lot of work on Ford V8s with aluminum heads told me to get plugs with a slightly longer shank for better combustion. So I did. Only a small imperceptible difference in length.
