UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6400.
(05/21/2017) Has a variety of updates.
“Fully restored, lightly used, excellent condition.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6400.
(05/21/2017) Has a variety of updates.
“Fully restored, lightly used, excellent condition.”

This photo provides a good look at how frayed some of the wire was behind the speedometer. Worse, this wiring was sitting on the metal brace!! in the background is the volt-a-drop which provides stepped down voltage to the King Seeley speedometer).
Electrical Mess:
We’ve been working hard on Patterson the last couple of days. Most of our time has been consumed with checking wiring and rewiring stuff. Between frayed wires and mis-wired stuff, it’s filled our time. Apart from the types of frayed wire seen in the pic above, I discovered 1) the wires to the amp gauge and light were wired into the oil light (fortunately, all I had to do was pop out the light and plug it into the amp light), 2) the amp light was missing altogether (thankfully I could steal one off of Rusty’s speedometer), 3) the ignition jumper that screws to the back of the speedometer was laying on the metal brace (must have caused some shorting), 4) the oil light wire was wired to the fuel gauge (which explains in part why the fuel gauge didn’t work … well that and there was no wire connected to the fuel tank wire.
Dimmer Switch:
The dimmer switch has been lubed, reassembled, de-painted, and installed.
The Horn Wire
Patterson came with a button attached to the side of the steering column that was used as a horn, but it didn’t work. Since we were already changing some of the wiring around, we decided to steal the column shift button wiring from Rusty’s steering column I wired last month and use it on Patterson.
To start, I knew we had to run some non-electric wire (similar to bailing wiring) through the length of the column in order to pull the horn button’s electric wire down the shaft. That sounded like a good idea, but several attempts at pushing the wire up the column were a failure: the wire kept getting snagged as I pushed it up the column. I was getting frustrated.
But then, my genius wife had an idea. Why not blow some thread down the column using an air compressor nozzle. Once the thread came out the bottom, we could pull the bailing-like wire back through. I admit, at first I thought it sounded a little crazy. After all, near the bottom of the column shaft it narrows, so I thought for sure the thread would be stopped by it. But, then I took a breath and thought …. hmmm … what could it hurt to try?
Sure enough, she produced some thread, dropped a little down the column, then stuck the air nozzle into the hole. That thread blew threw the bottom of the column in a couple seconds. It was genius! Well, almost genius, as we had to upgrade our thread to thicker thread. Other than that, we had the column horn working in no time!

This is the thin thread we tried. It didn’t she enough tensile strength to pull up the wire. She just dropped some thread in and the air blew the rest of the thread down through that small hole at the bottom.

Once we shifted to the thicker, black thread it worked perfectly.
Ted Jordan shared these photos showing a comparison between Dumas and Carson center seats. In the photo below, the Carson seat is shown on the left and the Dumas on the right.

Help us out by buying an Alaska Or Rust T-shirt. They are now available for sale. They are 100% heavy cotton and are priced at $25 from the Alaska Or Rust site (to cover shipping**) or $20 in person. You can use paypal or use a credit card. If you’d prefer to send a check (or have questions), email me at d@ewillys.com.
http://www.deilers.com/AlaskaOrRust/shop/
Most of our shirt sizes are XL and L, but we have some XXL, M, and a handful of Smalls.
**If you live outside of the US or Canada, we may have to charge extra for shipping.
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay.
Ted’s got an NOS Novi variable speed governors for sale on eBay. He has two others he’d be happy to sell outside of eBay. See his contact info below.
“They are in very good condition with the Novi units themselves being NOS. I have put together three last complete setups for CJ2As- 3As or any Lhead equipped universal Willys . There complete with Governor , correct L Head mounting bracket, original Dash T handle and control assembly with exact copies of King Seeley style Wire and correct Carb Links.
The unit on Ebay Im sending the link for has the early style Dash assembly . I would be happy to sell the last remaining units outside of Ebay if anyone is interested. Feel free to contact me directly willysted@charter.net or call with any questions or specific Willys PTO requests.
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $9500.
Looks nice.
“For sale is my 1946 Willys Jeep CJ-2A. Asking $9,500.00 o.b.o. The CJ-2A was the first civilian Jeep model ever produced after WWII. The Jeep is in great running and cosmetic condition. It had a frame off restoration about 5 years ago. Body, frame, transmission, transfer-case, axles are stock/original (However, I can’t prove that they are all 100% original to this Jeep or what you might call “matching numbers”, as there may have been major components replaced over the last 70 years of this Jeeps life). The engine has been replaced with a very strong running carbureted Chevrolet 4.3L V6 with a modern alternator and electric fuel pump.
The Jeep starts right up and runs strong, has a nice heavy clutch and a smooth shifting 3 speed transmission. The body is original and has had some new steel welded in on it (inevitably, there is some bondo to smooth out the patches) in various places but the work is well done and the Jeep looks very straight for an original 1946 body. There is no rust or bubbles anywhere on the body. The hat channels are perfectly solid. The frame is also rust free and 100% solid. All 5 wheels and tires are like new (installed last summer) with only about 25 miles on them (zero miles on the spare) since then. The tires are Firestone NDT military style. Other things done to the Jeep in the last year include: 4 new shocks, both transmission mounts, new shift boots, new fuel filter, new air filter/air cleaner, transfer-case front output yoke and seal, transfer-case pan gasket, all fluids (transmission, t-case, coolant, F/R diff’s, steering knuckles, steering box, and engine oil) changed.
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UPDATE **SOLD** Was $75.
Bill shared this one. Looks like a good price.
“This is a Ramsey Power Take Off (PTO) model PT1-T for Willys Trucks and Wagons. It is a single-stick PTO with dual front and rear outputs. I have never had it installed. It spins freely.”
Bill spotted these. I’m not sure what is all there. I see some axles, a transmission, a transfercase, an oil bath, and some misc stuff.
“some jeep stuff make offer call 8 to 5 1941 to 70s front and rear dana 25 27 44 4 front and 4 rearends model 18 t cases 3 speed trans will part”
Has a variety of updates.
“I have a 1946 Willy’s Jeep sitting on a 1978 cj jeep chassis. So it has power steering and power brakes. Power wiper. It has 35″ toyo’s. There is a 350 Chevy small block in It, with a 4spd. It is NYS inspected and is ready for the road.”
No close up pics. Has newer engine.
“1959 Willys pickup. Has a chevy 4.3 fuel injected V6. Willys 4 speed with a warren overdrive. Has lockamatic hubs. Has 16 in ford aluminum wheels with 10 ply rated tires. Runs and drives great”