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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
This might be a good restoration candidate.
“1946 Willys Jeep Complete, needs to be restored! Asking $1,300.00 or Best Offer!!!! If you have any questions or want to see please call 559-307-3349.”
http://fresno.craigslist.org/rvs/1771887337.html
Here’s a buyer for some CJ-5 fenderwell headers.
‘I am looking for some fenderwell headers for a small block chevy 283 that are made for an early CJ5 Willys Jeep. I am doing a conversion and need some soon. The exhaust needs to run outside the frame rail. I need some that fit CJ’s from 1953-1971, I’m not sure if the later years are the same or not. If you know whether the conversion headers from 1972-1986 Jeeps will fit the earlier models, please let me know. Let me know what you have via email.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $850.
There’s some work needed here.
“1942 Jeep by Ford rare example of this ex-military 4 wheel drive vehicle. Needs total restoration, clear Texas title in hand, $850.”
This looks in good shape.
“Very original, runs good, fresh military style paint, new interior, new top. Good solid running jeep. Call Alex- (909) 292-7375”
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1771361267.html
The engine needs a head gasket replaced.
“Selling a nice project car to make way for another. It’s a rare 1951 Willys Jeepster that is reported to be one of the last off the assembly line. It has a 6 cylinder f-head 161 cubic inch engine in it that runs but needs work (head gasket). Also has an overdrive transmission for good fuel economy. Odometer shows 80K miles. Has radio and heater … The Jeepster is in overall good condition. I bought it a few years ago from a fellow in West Virginia with the intent to restore to original. Another car’s caught my eye so this has to go … The front floors have been patched, the rears are good as-is. The body has minor rust but is very workable. The frame and suspension are in great shape with just the average surface scale. All lights work.”
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1772277592.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5000.
“Willys Jeep FC170 1962 Cab-Over 1 Ton Pick-up. 8 ½’ x 4’ Service Bed with Exterior Cabinets. Original engine – Willys Super Hurricane 6 (226 L-Head Continental). Complete rebuild about 1987. Top end rebuild about 1993. Stored since 2003. Locking Hubs. Sunroof Cedar Bed Rails. Bed Cover with Ribs that fit into Bed Rails. 2 Tire Chocks. Gate/Holder for Spare Tire. Crane ½ Ton Attached on Back Driver’s side. Spotlight. Gas Can. Tool Box. Cover for Bed with Removable Ribs. (Fit in slots on bed rails). Needs brake work. Clear Title.”
UPDATE: Still all available
(08/26/09) I don’t know where “sp. springs” is exactly.
“i have a cj2a body with good windshield frame, willys tailgate, and good grill, stretched 12 inches and frame set up for wagoneer springs and stretched 20 inches $250 obocall 750 9477”
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/1770229358.html
UPDATE: Price dropped to $3500
(03/09/2010) This looks in good shape and stock.
“1951 Willys Jeep, Used as a snow plow for at least 20 years. We have chains for it all the way around. Engine was rebuilt, has all new brake system. This vehicle can sit a long time and always start. Very little rust, no speedometer, transmission works good. We thought about restoring it, but have no time. Reasonable Offers will be accepted. 505 239-7127 spearsusanc@yahoo.com”
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/1771330501.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1500
(05/28/2010) The seller of this notes it is unmolested, but after seeing the paint job, I remain unconvinced 🙂
“1948 Willys CJ2A. Very nice restorable condition. I was going to restore but I have way too many projects. Has original engine and wheels. Nice unmolested jeep for a project. seats are not original. I was told it ran great before being parked a few years ago but I can not varify that. The picture is before power washing. The red color is mostly old paint showing. I has been painted a few times. Good Title!!”
Brian has provided a very thorough look at his approach to wiring his CJ-3B. My only wish is that he had written this BEFORE I had wired my Jeep, because I would have created a mockup dash like he did. Many thanks Brian!
Brian writes, I had a major setback in my 3b project when I damaged the valve train on my CPI engine, stopping oil from getting to the lifters. So, I had to swap engines before I could really start my test-drive shake-down period. As part of my swap, I chose to go with the TBI 4.3L V6. What really hurt was that I almost had the wiring complete for a CPI engine, but I knew what worked for the CPI would not work for the TBI engine. This meant a major layout change was in order.
If I had to label this part of my build I would have to call it “The things Painless does not want you to know”, because I feel I was able to save well over $1000.00 by utilizing a free wiring harness I pulled from a Blazer I junked. By working with the stock harness, I was able to use fuel pump relays and other items that help me avoid the nickel and dime effect that can add up to big bucks. I also learned some sort-cuts and where to get OEM parts to help complete the job correctly. So, here’s my adventure ….
LAYING OUT THE WIRING
Because the limited amount of space under the dash of my 3b, I had to move things around from the stock location in the Blazer. Fortunately, the harness I salvaged had enough wire to do this. However, trying to rewire and do everything I needed to do underneath the dash wasn’t an option. So, I made a mockup of the dash out of wood that allowed me to easily organize, size and create a well designed electrical layout.
Fuse box firewall bulkhead connector assembly used for mockup.
The harness enters the engine space in the same place as the Blazer.Note the valve covers, anyone seeing a nice set of center bolt aluminum valve covers for a 4.3 let me know.
THE CRIMPING TOOL
One important goal of mine was to shorten some of the wires and avoid some bird nests of stock wire under the dash. Doing some research I discovered GM uses Packard 56, 58 ,59 and Delphi Metri-pack connectors/terminals that you can buy at PCS Connectors. The advantage to using connectors and terminals “to shorten” is pretty obvious: you eliminate the potential of a splice failure; also, it looks much cleaner.
Having the right tool for wire splicing and terminal connectors is a key. I contacted a small company I was an engineer for and borrowed a ratcheting-crimping tool that you can see below. It took only three tries to get the crimping technique mastered, making my wiring appear professional. (crimping tools from PCS)
Read the entire post by clicking on the link below: