Monthly Archives: May 2020

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1951 CJ-3A Bennington, VT $1000

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3A This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: Still Available.

(04/23/2020) The jeep comes with some new parts.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/452564425641246/

“Selling my 1951 jeep CJ3A project. I bought this with the intentions of doing a complete restoration but life has since gotten in the way. The jeep comes with all new suspension, and shocks as well as brand new bumpers and transmission crossmember, the transmission is good as well as the axles and differentials, the engine is unknown but complete. It also comes with a “new” used frame in amazing shape. This is a perfect winter project for a restoration as it is all there.”

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Willys Hubcaps Harwich, MB $40/per Hubcap

• CATEGORIES: Parts, Tires and Rims This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

More hubcaps.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3105519666370477/

“These are 10 3/4″ from outside measurement. Price is per cap. Heavy weight for a hubcap. I will ship Ships from Harwich,MA PayPal and Venmo accepted as friends and family”

hubcaps-harwich-ma1 hubcaps-harwich-ma2

 
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The Hudson Hornet Steering Modification

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Just a few posts today, but some good ones!

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1951-1953 Hudson Hornet steering box installed on John’s CJ-2A.

I’ve been very interested in the Hudson Hornet Steering Modification since I heard about it a decade ago. Unfortunately, there’s scant information about implementing the modification, but reports were that it was a relatively easy one that produced fantastic results, offering a power-assist feel to the steering and reducing play (a similar, alternative steering modification is the use of a 1980s Ford Ranger box, which Lawrence Ellliot shared back in 2018).

Now, thanks to Adam, we have some new insights into the obstacles and benefits of installing a Hudson unit into a vintage jeep! Perhaps the most difficult obstacle to overcome is locating the steering box itself! Adam’s provided some great details below, but If you want to ask Adam more questions directly, he’s offered his email ahedgcock @ gmail.com (remove the spaces around the @).

Below, Adam shows some of the differences between the Hudson and Ross (Willys) units:

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Here’s Adam’s description:

  1. Find box. Perhaps the most difficult task .. 51 to 53 Hudson Hornet.
  2. Pitman Arm/Get Drag Link. Try to get the bell crank and drag link. The Hudson splined pitman shaft is quite a bit larger than the willys splined shaft so it is good to use the original. The pitman arm itself is similar in how it bends, but is 7” long ( instead of 5” on the willys)
  3. Pitman Arm Ball. The pitman arm ball end on the Hudson is larger than the willys, so I welded the Hudson drag link end onto my willys drag link.
  4. Hudson Box bolts right up, but …The Hudson box could be bolted directly to the frame rail with 3 bolts, but the steering column will be 2.5” too far on the drivers side to hit you body tub hole. Having all stock brake and clutch pedals, and not wanting to make my tub Swiss cheese, I chose to move the box 2.5” off the frame with a fabricated spacer. This would be similar to the level of fab needed to convert a Saginaw box up front.
  5. Or Shift the Hudson Bracket. The cast steel Hudson bracket could be cut and re-welded to the box 2.5” over also, with the same results.
  6. Modify the Column Tube. The steering column is similar to the willys but the Hudson column tube is larger than the Willys. I welded a larger OD sleeve at the base of an existing willys column, cut a split in it and welded on 2 ears so I could clamp it tight.
  7. Steering Shaft Differs. The steering shaft does not have the same end spline for a willys steering wheel, so you can either cut and weld a willys spline to the end, or find a Hudson steering wheel.
  8. Gear ratio. I did not take the box apart, but it is clearly a roller bearing worm shaft, and this thing came tight, even after presumably many years of use. The Hudson box is 6 turns lock to lock, and the Ross is 3 turns. It is worth noting the pitman arm is longer, 7” vs 5” on the willys, but you get a definite advantage in ratio. A bit less than half the effort to turn the wheels. I have taken it on road, and there is not the same “twitch” at speed, and off-road it does not tear your thumbs off like before. The wheel still happily spins back to center by itself nicely when you let it go, just more revolutions.
  9. Placement of box. This will be subjective, I have a Buick V6 and I found the longer pitman arm worked better because it swings below my bellhousing rather than ramming I to it with the Ross. Just like placing an engine, you would want to mock up the ideal spot, and make the bracket accordingly.
  10. Original look. This is basically a similar box, and does not effect the outward appearance at all.
  11. Finding parts…this is the fun part, I needed to talk to people, and ultimately find a person willing to go digging through an old barn. Once I found my source, I bought 2. Paid $200 each.
  12. Very fun swap, more original than the Saginaw, similar performance to a manual Saginaw provided to have a good tight bell crank and good tie rod ends.. I don’t see any need for a steering stabilizer

Hudson Horney Box casting number 34641.

hudson-steering-box-casting

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John’s Cutlas Selective Hub Rebuild

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features, How To • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

John recently rebuilt a set of Cutlas Selective Hubs, the type with the knob that rotates to engage and disengage the hub. There appear to be at least two styles of these hubs, one with a flat top and one with a groove, so that a tool (or improvised tool) can be used to help engage, disengage the hub.

This exploded overview from 1961 shows how the parts assemble (see the full brochure below this post):

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As you can kind of see from this diagram, there are two sections: 1) is the hub cap that holds the knob and the spring in place (from part 107-2 in the middle and everything to the right of it) and 2) the hub base (part 108-2 and everything to the left of it).

John wrote, “Overall I’d say these are my favorite hubs I’ve worked on so far. I have a pair of Warn hubs (with the tiny needle bearings) and a pair of Selectro hubs (big chrome knob type). The Warns seemed like a real pain to rebuild since the needle bearing were in rough shape. And the Selectro hubs, while very easy to operate, were probably the weakest design I’ve seen.”

Here’s a look at John’s finished product, as it’s the best example a complete hub next to a hub with the top separated from the base:

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I went with a 2 tone paint job just for fun. If it doesn’t last for any reason I’ll end up with the whole thing gloss black and a chrome knob. The body was so badly pitted there was no saving the original finish

HUB CAP:

We’ll start with the hub’s cap first. John provided the following note: “To remove the coupling piece (part 102-2 Coupling) from the chrome cap (with the cutlas knob) you have to line it up right with the correct groove, then push down firmly against the spring inside (part 110-2 coupling spring). While pushing down spin the coupling, and then the coupling spring will pop the coupling right out and its free.”

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With the inner portion of the cap apart, you can see the coupling ring, the coupling, the coupling cam spring (part 107-2) and the coupling cam pins (parts 105-2).

cutlas-hub-groove-rebuild-john2-lores

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1961 Cutlas Parts & Price List Brochure

• CATEGORIES: Advertising & Brochures, Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

This December 1961 back-to-back brochure shows the parts break-downs and price lists for the early non-slot Cutlas Selective Hub model 100-2 and the Power Lock Hub. See John’s rebuild of the Cutlas Selective Hub here.

1961-12-01-cutlas-selective-drive-model100-2-lores

1961-12-01-cutlas-power-lock-hubs-lores

 
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1956 CJ-6 Auburn, CA $9500

• CATEGORIES: CJ-6 This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: This jeep has been reassembled (last shown apart). The new pics don’t show the completed jeep.

 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2576328589304560/

“This jeep is complete and running with a 225 oddfire v6 and 3spd t90a and d18.. Runs great with the new hei and wires Pics dont show it but its way further along with orig steering column and rear seat installed. I also have orig window.. it has a small chip. But its nice and i have a new rubber grommet to install it. Will possibly need a little tinkering after driving it for a 100 miles or so.. To dial it in perfect but its a runner.. Great runner. But it runs great.

Only thing im waiting for now is clutch master and slave cylinder i bought online… So price is reflecting that.. And work to put it in as well as window. Once those r done its going on ebay for 12k… Buy it now hearing it run for 9500.. Or wait a week or 2 and itll be 12000.. Last chance to get it it cheap”

1956-cj6-auburn-calif

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Year? FC-170 Hopkins, MN $1200

• CATEGORIES: FC150-FC170-M677 This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Thanks to Daniel for spotting this one.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/grd/d/minnetonka-jeep-fc-170/7107513128.html

“Rare truck real nice project 4×4 real rusty no transmission, 6 cilinder”

year-fc170-mn28 year-fc170-mn29

 
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Offroad History Museum in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

• CATEGORIES: Features, Museums This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.
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Jeep outside the museum (photo from Trip Advisor)

Mohamed Busamnoh, eWillys’ United Arab Emirates correspondent, reported on his recent visit to the newly opened Offroad History Museum in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates. Thanks for sharing! (check out another museum owned by the same sheikh with a giant flat fender).

“I passed by to the newly opened Offroad History Museum in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates, to check it out and it’s pretty impressive. It is owned by one of they royal family members who goes by the nickname “Rainbow Sheikh”. It is divided into 3 main sections:

  1. A modified cars section where all his imagination goes and he builds the craziest cars.
  2. Second is civilian production models,
  3. And, the third is a military section.

He has more than 350 cars on display only in this museum. He also owns several museums around the world. From above, the main entrance is built as the letter H for his name, Hamad. He had what I believe is the only FC in the country besides mine or at least from what I have seen around. He also has all kinds of everything 4×4. All kinds of jeeps.

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Colombian Roller Coaster at the Parque Del Cafe

• CATEGORIES: Features, International This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

An article about the impact of the Coronavirus on Colombian theme parks led me to this recently opened jeep-themed roller coast at the Parque Del Cafe (which translates into the Coffee Park). It underscores how nuts Colombian’s are about jeeps!

The park is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Colombia. In 2017 it attracted more than one million visitors. The name of this particular roller coast is the Yippe, likely a play off of the Yipao bean/jeep culture. It opened in late 2018 as best as I can tell.

I imagine this video was created during the testing/building phase:

Here are some pics:

 

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Electric Motor Built into a Chev V-8 Block

• CATEGORIES: Features, videos This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Steve shared this unusual modification. This experienced hot rodder built an electric motor into a V8 block to make it look like a traditional engine. To improve the engine’s range, he installed a V8 into the bed of the truck which will power a pair of generators.

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/hot-rodders-hybrid-1936-pickup-hides-an-electric-motor-inside-a-chevy-small-block-v8/ar-BB13wvKB?ocid=spartanntp

The build: