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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $500
“1948 Willys Jeep CJ-2A. AS-IS parts or restore. No title. The drive train is complete But the chassis is shot. We do have a few other little parts in a box that we didn’t want to walk off in the wrong hands. Overall this truck has a whole lot of potential. We also have a few other jeeps and 3 1/2 Mighty Mites for sale as well. We are liquidating some of the collection. ”
This jeep's been family owned since 1955. It's a bit rough and that poorly mounted roof doesn't help it's look.
"Original Willys Jeep that needs some TLC. Civilian model with tailgate. Been in my family since 1955 with only 2 owners before that. Have half hard top plus frame and canvas doors for canvas top. Doors have canvas with see through windows on frames now. Less than 5000 miles on engine rebuild. Odometer froze at 25,000 miles but probably only has 30,000 total miles if that. Never used for anything but hunting. E-mail for more pics. Call if interested, Ray 503-780-6968"
There's definitely some work to be done on this package.
"Broken Leg forces sale! Serious buyers only please, no trades. Engine runs (134L head go devil) 4 combat rims & brand new military tires. Started to tear down for sheet metal work & paint, but unfinished. Box of spare parts goes with. Clear title, same owner last 8 years. Have Bantam trailer fender (is missing in pictures). Would be beautiful restored. Call 360-733-5911 or email aeschliman4@comcast.net for more photos or with questions."
Ok, I like the big gun. Hard to find jeeps with big guns in them anymore. I know it says replica, but maybe it actually shoots?
"1945 Willys MB. This army jeep is ready for parades, shows, or just driving around. Comes with everything as shown, including .50 cal replica. With the exception of a later hood and T-90 transmission, this is a very complete (original) MB. The steering is tight, brakes are good, engine runs fine, and the tires are three years old. The four wheel drive is fully operational."
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $7000
“1944 ford willys jeep from world war II ,completly redone new top tire engine overhaul and more …original manuals ..runs great and good for parades or just to have if your a collector.miles are 23000 and to the best of our knowledge are to be correct as per the title states ..jeep is in great shape and with the 4 wheel drive will go any where offroad ..more pictures available upon request . we are asking 7000.00 but are open to any reasonable offers.”
Take one look at this photo and you can see why having a good roll cage is smart. The driver of this jeep, 63 year old Alvin Baldwin, died in the rollover after being ejected. The link to the original article no longer exists. It occurred outside Virginia City.
Well, I learned something new today: Drive Cycles ….
A couple days ago my 1997 BMW 540i failed an emissions test (for the second year in a row). Last year I had shown enough money spent on the engine to get a waiver. This year, I was a little nervous because I didn't know whether they'd give me a second waiver or not. (This vehicle is a blast to drive and a PIA to take care of or work on!!)
Well, I just got done speaking with the head of the Air Quality Testing for ADA County, my new friend Roger (I have to say that it's nice to be able to talk to the head of the department — that's one nice thing about living in a small populated state). What happened was not that I failed, but that they couldn't read my car's computer. The reason was that I have not completed a drive cycle since the last time I reset my car's computer codes (Any time I work on it, I reset the codes to see if I have fixed the problem). I figured anytime I got into the car and drove it that the computer would be on and recording normally. However, until a drive cycle is complete, none of my monitors (which are really groups of codes) are actually capable of being read. So, Roger, who said he consulted with the EPA back in 1992, said he had a good deal of insight into what constituted a drive cycle.
I made a good deal of progress with the fenders yesterday. I created a series of mini molds and fiberglassed several times in different sections to successfully capture the right angles. So, step 1 is complete.
Today I'll be drilling and mounting the fenders so that they fit correctly. One issue I have to surmount is that the slope on the fenders seems slightly different than the slope on the mount on the body, but I'm sure I can work around this issue.
Once fitted, then I'll have to create the cutouts for the headers and then create the new walls so that the headers are enclosed. Unlike metal fenders, which wouldn't lose too much strength when cutout for headers, the fiberglass will benefit from having that extra strength.
After the final modifications are made, I will be to run a second coat of resin and cloth along the entire underside of the fenders. This will create a smoother look and strengthen the fenders considerably.
The final step will be to use some filler and gel coat to smooth off the top surfaces — then I'll be ready for paint.
Have a dented header you want to fix? While combing the internet for advice on making my headers work, I came across this interesting solution for fixing dented headers. It involves water, a freezer, and some time. Note: I have not tried this, so cannot speak for its effectiveness
I've started the process of lengthening my fiberglass fenders. I've determined they need to be extended 4.5".
My first task was to clean the fenders. This yielded a surprise: Business cards from the builder of the body were embeded into both fenders. To the right a shot of one of them. The information suggests the seller was H.C. "Van" Wagner out of Puyallup, Washington. He sold Custom fiberglass products including Bobcat products. The name of the company has faded, but I have the address and phone info.
Once the fenders were cleaned, I cut them in half and I cut out the indent (traditionally for the battery) out of the passenger side. Once they were cut, I tapered down the cut pieces. To the left are the cut fenders.
The next step is to fiberglass them. I'm going to try laying down a layer of gelcoat and then lay the fiberglass over the top of it. I' haven't used gelcoat in my previous patching jobs, but am trying to gain experience so that I can use it when I do my custom hood project.