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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example. This section used to be split into jeeps, parts and other categories, but recent changes to eBay will require this information to be recoded.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6000.
(08/01/2010) This looks nicely restored.
“1953 Willys M38 A1 Jeep good running condition”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay
(07/16/2010) Here’s a nice wagon, though it’s not exactly museum quality.
“One of the very few remaining unmolested Jeep carryalls in the world!! It is just one of 485 ever built in 1960. This vehicle was sold new near Springfield, Illinois in late 1959. It got repossesed shortly thereafter and remained in storage for years. An auto Museum in Springfield purchased the Jeep in the late 1990s and kept it until the museum closed a few months ago. The vehicle is amazingly solid with an all original interior. It has been painted in it’s original color. We see very little to no evidence of major rust issues. It runs and drives and is a blast. Comes with it’s original 1959 Illinois license plates!!”
UPDATE: Back on eBay
(02/16/2010) This is a project or parts jeep.
“You are bidding on a 1947 Willys, according to identification of rear end and body style. The engine is a Ford 6 cyl. and runs well has new starter. This is a project so it is rough some sheet metal has been replace and the brakes do not work. Trans seem to be in good shape, transfer case, High Low range and all gears. Clutch operates fine. As you can see in pictures no seats only original frames. Gas tank is removed. Rear hubs are welded on rears axel shafts but I do have extra shafts that have not been changed. Frame is in good shape. Just needs love and attention! I have no title but will give a bill of sale. As far as I know it is a Texas vehicle. No shipping available but I can store as long as needed at no charge. $ 500.00 due at close balance due in 3 days, cashiers check or money order.”
UPDATE: Sam has provided some detailed instructions (which will replace mine) and will also be sending some pics when he completes his next installation.
One idea Sam has shared with eWillys readers was the rack and pinion steering modification he has been doing. He describes this as a pretty straight forward installation that can replace the stock steering in any flattie. Sam says this takes him about four hours to complete. Pics are forthcoming on this modification.
Sam describes the process as follows:
1) Remove Steering: Take out the existing steering mechanism and the mounting plate.
2) Remove Drag Link: Remove drag link from old box to bell crank
3) Layout Straight Edge: With front wheels straight ahead, use a straight edge (anything will do, I use a piece of conduit) and lay one end on the passenger side tie rod from the spindle and the other side on the frame rail directly above the drivers side tie rod end at the spindle This will give you the approximate location for the rack and pinion. DO NOT USE original box location as this will put the cross link through the engine block.
4) Where to Mount Vega Plate: Take the Vega box mounting plate (The plate Sam uses is this plate from Unisteer.com) and using a large C-clamp, attach to frame with the top of the plate even with the top of the frame. This will put the mounting holes in the right place. You will notice the top two holes are inside the opening of the frame and the third hole is below the frame as it should be.
5) Temporarily Mount Rack: The rear edge of the Vega plate should be ONE inch ahead of the line from the tie rods towards the front of the vehicle. NOTE….at this point, it is very important to temporarily mount the rack (You may use longer bolts to clear the C-clamp). Once mounted, move the wheels all the way to the right and make sure you have at least one inch clearance between the cross link from the Rack and the oil pan. Do the same with turning the wheels to the left. If you have the proper clearance, you have the right location for the mounting plate for the Rack and Pinion.
6) Weld Plate to Frame: Weld the Vega plate in place and be sure to use the supplied gusset ( I use two of them, as I have found that with one gusset, there is a chance for mount twist under harsh conditions such as four-wheeling……strongly suggest you do the same grin grin)
7) Attach Rack and Pinion: Bolt the Rack and Pinion in place and attach the cross link to the Rack and with the Rack centered and the wheels dead ahead, mark the cross shaft for cutting allowing for the length of the tie rod end. Now you may cut, thread, and install the tie rod. The unit Sam uses is this cross steer rack from unisteer.com (that link is dead, but this may be the one). 
8) Determine Steering Rod Length: Using the conduit, determine the route from the bottom of your steering column to the Rack and Pinion. This varies with engine and frame variations but is very simple. Usually all that is required is to determine if the column needs to be shortened or if a double joint is needed. At this stage, determine what your shaft is…..splined, D shape, square, etc. This will determine which joint to use. If round, (with roll pins) I strongly suggest you modify it to D-shape for strength. Sometimes you have to use TWO rods from the column to the box. If so, USE ROD SUPPORTS before and after middle joint. You can get everything you need from Borgson Joints. If you choose the shorten your column (to use One Rod) you can can get the necessary seal and bearing from them too.
9) Double Check Everything: Double check everything for tightness and clearance and YOU ARE DONE — smile, have a beer.
This sounds simple and it really is, I’ve done soooo many of them, that I can do it start to finish in four hours. If anyone still needs help, just call me or Dave and I’ll be more than happy to walk you through it. The last one I did cost $612.42 for everything, Somewhat cheaper than regular boxes and a whole lot better looking and steering.
If properly installed, you’ll notice the steering much tighter while driving and capable of easily turning under the weight of even a V8 when parked.
These are project and/or parts vehicles that I have collected but don’t know when I will be able to restore! Their condition ranges from running but needing restoration, (2), to not running but with most of the parts needed to restore including engines and running gear. 3 have titles and I will supply a bill of sale for the other 2. This will make it possible to acquire a title through a title agency if you like. I’m asking $6000.00 for everything. Reasonable offers considered!
Included are also numerous extra parts including:
1 dash/cowl/ firewall assembly
3 T18 transfer case assemblies
1 T90 transmission assembly
1 dana 30 rear differential
1 dana 25 front differential
7 bottom mount radiators and cores for CJ2A
5 windshield frame assemblies 4 for CJ2A & 1 for CJ3A
4 left fenders
6 right fenders
3 grille assemblies
2 L134 blocks
starters, generators, other odds & ends.
I have more pictures upon request.
This group lot is for sale locally and I reserve the right to cancel this listing at any time!
http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/1902985038.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $7000.
Needs some work still.
“1942 WWII Jeep. Ford Stamped. Rebuilt motor and transmission, brakes. Body needs work. Strong motor.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4800.
The seller believes this has NOT been restored. It appears in good condition.
“Never restored original. Good Shape. Driven regulary in the summer. have soft top with doors and various extra parts. Serious inquiries only by phone. No emails. $4800”
This is interesting. It’s a CJ-2A being sold as a 1947, but has a serial number of 28367, which means it should have the tool indents as well. It could mean the body is a replacement or something else. Or, someone has melded a couple jeeps together.
“The CJ2A is the civilian version of the famous WWII Jeep (known as the MB) from which the term “Jeep” was coined. Of course, there were no new vehicles available during the war, so the civilian versions were first produced in July of 1945 (2 months after V-E day and 1 month *before* V-J day!), As far as Jeeps go though, this body style is the absolute earliest a civilian could purchase.
As you can see, this particular CJ2A has been painted in military colors, and is equipped with military tires. pristine, restored examples. This particular jeep has obviously been hacked on over the years, although sometimes its hard to tell wether something has been altered somewhere along the line or if its just 1940s technology.”
http://www.rpmconnections.com/Details.php?id=224
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4950.
It’s not quite finished, but appears solid.
“Selling 1946 Willys CJ2A Jeep. This is an early civilian Jeep made to look similar to a military style. It has a rebuilt original “Go-Devil” engine. The transmission and transfer case have also been rebuilt. The Jeep has a working rear PTO winch. The radiator has been completely redone including the shroud. Additionally, the original Carter WO carb is in the process of being restored and rebuilt. It has been converted to 12V. The Jeep runs great and looks decent enough for parades, cruises, etc. Please do not hesitate to ask any questions. $4950″
UPDATE: **SOLD** for $10,500
“This is a Willys Jeep pickup used exclusively for a Fire Department brush fire response vehicle. It spent it’s life garaged, warm and clean. Because of this it has no rust and 29K original miles. It is BETTER than a frame-up restoration, because it hasn’t yet gotten to the point of needing restoring. It is still a fun, reliable, licensed and inspected daily driver in the mechanical condition of any truck with 29K miles. Of course, there are the added perks of a loud siren and flashing lights if you want to be noticed even more. I have owned it for five years (bought it directly from the fire company) and would be happy to keep it, but like many people, I have growing cash flow problems, so I have to take a cold look at my priorities. It is time to sell. I have set a fair and reasonable reserve for the quality of this antique. It is located near Binghamton, NY and you could drive it home if you wanted, but it would be a crime to run up needless mileage and wear. A flat bed trailer would be best, or hire a car hauler. This is a 50 year old antique, so naturally there is no warranty. Sold as-is, where-is. Try to get your questions in well before the auction ends so I have time to answer.”
