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Proof of Life!

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

On Tuesday afternoon, Patterson sprang to life with it’s new transplant!

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We started Tuesday morning working through the wiring. I asked Ann to rewire the low-beam/high-beam floor switch, since much of the fabric had fallen away. That led to rewiring more of the harness than expected, which in turn delayed messing with the engine.

Once I could focus on the engine, the first thing I did was swap distributers, as Patterson’s engine had newer internals (and I knew for sure it worked). When installed, I tried starting the engine a few times, but didn’t have success. So, I rotated the distributor wires 90 degrees. When that didn’t work, I rotated them another 90. When that didn’t work, I rotated them another 90. That’s when I got the engine to fire, but not run. At that point I began rotating it a few degrees, then cranking the engine, then rotating again, so I could get a feel for which position seemed to fire the best. But, after trying this a few times, we still didn’t get it to run.

At that point, Ann suggested we try different spark plugs. I’d forgotten I hadn’t installed the ones that had been on Patterson (still attached to the head). So, we pulled them, checked the gaps, then installed them in the “new” engine. We got it to fire again, but then, mysteriously, it stopped firing no matter where the distributer was located. That was puzzling. About that time, ann noticed some heat at the generator. I suspect the regular got stuck, causing the battery to discharge into the generator, creating heat (at least that’s what I determined later of after doing some reading). So, I pulled the battery cable and let the system cool.

Once it was cool, I rotated the distrbutor back to teh position where it had fired the best, then climbed into Patterson to start the jeep, simultaneously working the choke and gas pedal. Sure enough, Patterson just needed some physical presence in the driver’s seat, because he started right up. At that point, I climbed out and played with the distributor to locate the sweetest sounding spot. (see the video on Facebook … I can’t seem to make it appear on eWillys … it lacks a muffler, so it’s a little noisy).

So, Patterson runs again. But, we discovered the temp gauge and oil gauges are not working, so those will need some attention. Unfortunately, we had to return to Pasco last night, because Ann has a doc appointment Wednesday. I accompanied her back to Pasco, as I have some updating to do to the website and need to organize the sale of some Alaska Or Rust t-shirts. More on that Thursday morning. We plan to be back in Renton early next week. My mother has knee surgery scheduled for the 5th, so we need to be around to help out.

 
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Looking Like a Jeep Again

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Now, if only it sounded like a jeep. It seems the timing it off, so I’ll be working my way through that Tuesday morning. One fun fact I didn’t know … there’s no top center on an L-head. I wished I’d known that BEFORE I assembled everything. I didn’t check to see whether my flywheel has the flywheel marks.

Anyway, Patterson is all assembled. We only had one oil leak, but that was only because someone forgot to tighten the inlet line at the block. We also had a minor gas leak at the carb, but that was a trivial issue. Some plumbers tape solved that.

So, now I believe it’s down’ to timing. For those looking for a good resource on L-head timing strategies, this thread on the CJ-2A page is helpful: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/l134-ignition-timing_topic13819.html. The also may be helpful: http://www.cj-2a.com/techtips/timing/howto/l134-timing.pdf

Here are a few pics from the day:

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This rewiring is Ann’s handiwork.

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Ann also produced some seat covers that have pockets at the front for things like a phone or wallet.

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The grille installed.

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The radiator is installed. Just need the driver side fender installed.

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More Progress…

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It was a productive evening yesterday.

My wife spent her second-birthday helping me in the garage (The 25th of June is the day of her bombing .. she says it was like a whole new life after that). She’s a great help; she does any task asked without complaint. I couldn’t ask for a better co-mechanic!

It’s late, so I’ll make this short. We made good progress today. We installed the vacuum holding tank, installed the passenger seat, bled the brakes, rewired some of the frayed wires, connected the transmission and engine, and slid the power train back into place. Now we just have to re attached some wires, hoses, and tighten a few things and we’ll get to test it. Here are a few
pics:

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It’s hard to leave the computer, even in the garage!

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Ann’s helping center the engine.

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Cleaning up after a long dirty day.

 
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A Little Confused …

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

A couple things confused me today. In this first example, we have at top the original gasket between the intake manifold and carb. On the bottom is the replacement gasket included in a rebuild kit. As you can see, it won’t work. Is the DJ-3A intake that unique? I know it uses a Carter YF 2392, so that’s unique.

2017-06-24-carb-gasket-comparison

Next up, the ends for the dragline. On the left is the new end and on the right the old one. The new one is taller and has shallower slots for installing it. The old end is shorter and has much deeper slots (those deeper slots are really helpful) . Anyone know why these are so different? Between the longer end and longer springs, I couldn’t put all the parts together around the bell crank arm (and I tried). In the end I was forced to use some old and some new parts.2017-06-24-draglink-end-piece-comparison

Note the difference in the spring heights. Try as I might, I could not compress the spring enough to install an end. I changed to the old end.2017-06-24-draglink-spring-comparison

Once I used some of the old parts, I was able to get the draglink installed.2017-06-24-draglink

I also installed the dual master cylinder. The rear brake line connected perfectly. I just had to add one bend. The front brake lines were a big problem. You’d think trying to locate an 3/16-1/4 adapter would be easy, but it turned into multiple trips to the auto store, where I hunted for the right sizes with the right threads. The staffs at two different auto stores were not useful (nice, but not helpful). So, this will work for now, but I’d like to get the proper adapter and remove the connectors and line on the right side. 2017-06-24-master-cylinder-brake

Sunday morning we’ll 1) bleed the brakes and then, if all goes well with that, 2) replace the front springs and then 3) drop in the engine.

 

 
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Creating Patterson’s Transmission Crossmember

• CATEGORIES: Features • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Someone on Facebook the other day claimed that DJ-3As were made from surplus parts. As with any model during those years, there were some DJ parts used on other models. But, as with other models, there are parts unique to the DJ-3A and I’m learning more about them daily, one part at a time.

Today I spent time working on the transmission crossmember. Because finding a DJ-3A crossmember was near impossible (and since Rusty did not have a normal crossmember), I got a CJ-3A crossmember from Chris McKay for Rusty. But, I’ve decided to use the stock DJ-3A crossmember off of Patterson on Rusty and keep that jeep as stock as possible, and DJ-3A-matize the 3A crossmember for Patterson. Here are a couple pics:

dj3a-transmission-crossmember3 dj3a-transmission-crossmember1 dj3a-transmission-crossmember2

So, to make the CJ crossmember a DJ unit, I will have to remove the transfercase cup and drill several holes.

Unfortunately, as I disassembled Patterson’s crossmember I ran into a couple problems with the rubberized mount for the transmission. Here’s a look at what I pulled off of Patterson. Note how narrow the two holes are for mounting the rubber piece to the transmission (too narrow for a standard T-90 mount:

2017-06-22-transmission-crossmember11

Continue reading

 
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DJ-3A Gas Pedal Linkage

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UPDATE: More DJ-3A carb info here:

On Thursday evening I spent time moving parts from Patterson’s stock, but tired,  DJ-3A engine to Rusty’s rebuilt M-38 engine so I could install it in Patterson. One item that caught my attention was Patterson’s DJ gas pedal linkage versus Rusty’s. Patterson’s appeared stock, while Rusty’s had a modified pivot point, probably the result of using the M-38 block. I decided to keep Patterson’s as it was and recreate the part for Rusty’s engine.

DJ-3A gas pedal Linkage: The linkage goes through the firewall to a pivot point on the driver’s side. When the gas pedal is depressed, a rod pushes an angle piece around a pivot, forcing a second rod upwards to a YF 2392S carb, causing the gas flow to increase.

yf-2392s-carb yf-2392s-carb2

Patterson’s real pivot piece (and it seems I misspelled carburetor in my pic).

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This shows the piece after removing the parts. The pivot bolt is solid on the end with a hole for a cotter pin.

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Example of what I removed from Rusty (bottom) and the bolt I will use to make a new one (top with new threads extended up it so I can add a bolt). The biggest problem with the custom piece at bottom is that it had no cotter pin. It was only held on by a bolt, which could have easily have come unscrewed as the gas pedal pivot piece moved back and forth.
gas-pedal-linkage2 Continue reading

 
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Ark-Les Switch Repair

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Patterson has a Harrison Heater, common in the early DJ-3As. Attached at the bottom of the dash is an Ark-Less four position switch (Off, Low, Medium, High) that controls the fan speed. The switch wasn’t delivering current, so I spent the day figuring out how to pull it apart and clean it up in the hopes that the switch could be resurrected.

The switch is held together by a long pin in the center. The switch also rotates on this pin. To remove the pin, the rounded edges on the pin must be drilled/pressed together/or someone modified. I chose to drill out the ends.

Here’s what it looks like to begin (not my switch .. I forgot to take this pic .. thanks to the cj-2a.com page)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Note the small hole. That pin must be pushed out

Now, here’s my switch. It received some paint when Patterson was repainted (I believe the paint was touched up some at some point). Once I drilled out the end of the pin a little, I used the nail to push the pin through.

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Here’s the other side of the pin. Now that it is sticking up, I can remove it.arkless-harrison-heater-switch4

Pin removed. I didn’t put much pressure on the pin when I first pushed it through, so I *think* the pin was already bent somehow.arkless-harrison-heater-switch5

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Good Day

• CATEGORIES: Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

2017-05-29-patterson
We had a good day of work on Patterson today. First up, we confirmed that all the lights, blinkers, and even the hazards work. The brake lights don’t work yet, but that’s related to the master cylinder. I’ve ordered a dual master cylinder system from R&P, which ought to solve the brake issues.

The last electronic issue to debug is the heater motor. That’s on deck for tomorrow morning.

We took a look a closer look at Patterson’s engine and concluded it needs a full rebuild. There are multiple areas of pitting on the piston walls. Examples:

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Wall of piston #4. Several instances of pitting.

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Pitting on #2

So, we turned our attention to Rusty’s engine, one that is marked as a rebuild. Ann tackled the cleaning of it. It was supposed to be a “good enough” job, which she surpassed.

2017-05-29-ann-cleaning-block Continue reading

 
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Patterson’s Vacuum Reservoir System

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In case anyone’s curious, this is how Patterson’s vacuum reservoir is setup. Based on what I’ve read, a reservoir was important if running dual wipers. The vacuum begins at the manifold, then winds down under the body.

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It winds up underneath to a reservoir tucked in between the frame and the spring for the parking brake.

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This is a close up look at the TRICO valve on the reservoir.

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This is a not so perfect illustration of how it mounts. Because of the support channels on the floor of the body, the reservoir had to be shimmed down about an inch. The solution was a set of three nuts between the body and the reservoir. Continue reading

 
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Patterson Losing Its Head

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I pulled the head on Patterson last night. I don’t see any cracks in the block nor do I see any obvious signs of coolant, though there might be a tiny bit of residue on the tops of pistons 1 and 2. My initial reaction is that coolant is entering the oil elsewhere. The engine does appear to have a recently replaced water pump. Anyway installing that incorrectly would result in mixing coolant and oil??

The first two photos show how the pistons and head gasket looked right after pulling it. 
2017-05-23-head-gasket1 2017-05-23-head-gasket2

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Then after pulling off the gasket and vacuuming up the dirt:
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The head gasket:2017-05-23-head-gasket5

The bottom of the head:

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