Roll Cage Research Archives

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Roll Cage Phoenix, AZ **Status Unknown**

• CATEGORIES: Roll Cage

UPDATE: **Status Unknown** Was $300.

If you are looking for a solid cage, this price is cheaper than making one.

“This was taken out of a 1947 Jeep Willy that was a rock crawler project. That project never happened, so I’m selling the custom roll cage that was made for it. I believe it will fit many other Jeeps and years and can be easily modified for a Samurai or something similar. It is made from 2″ tubular metal pipe and is structurally in great shape. Could use a good cleaning and paint though. Here are some measurements that may help you determine if it is what you want.

Front to Back of cage measured from the base – 71″
Side to Side measured from front part of base – 50″
Side to Side measured from rear part of base – 54″
Height measured from middle of roll cage – 47″
Windshield opening Width – 21.5″
Windshield opening Height – 44.5″
Cab opening Width – 3′
Cab opening Height – 39″
Side plates on the back base Width – 10″
Side plates on the back base Length – 33″

flattie-race-cage-phoenix-az0 flattie-race-cage-phoenix-az1 flattie-race-cage-phoenix-az2

 
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Bountiful City Jeep Posse

• CATEGORIES: Features, Old Images Jeeping, Roll Cage • TAGS: , .

The February 1948 Issue of Popular Mechanics Magazine published this fascinating look at the Bountiful City Jeep Posse, an organization that worked as a volunteer Search and Rescue and Fire Fighting group out of Bountiful, Utah. Started in 1946, the organization is still in existence.

I found this article that provides additional history from the 2006 in the Deseret News.  Though they own fewer jeeps and have more trucks, they are still helping their community.   I’ve contacted the newspaper to see if I can communicate with the members to get some more information about them and, possibly, some additional jeep pictures.

The Images below all come from the Popular Mechanics Magazine article.  Note the jeep in the background of the bottom image on page 3 has a full cage, the earliest example of a full cage I’ve seen.

Following the article, I’ve included pics of two ads, too.

Page 1:

  Continue reading

 
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Roll Cage Raleigh, NC $400

• CATEGORIES: Roll Cage • TAGS: .

Stuart is selling this nice rollcage.

“custom fabricated 6 point roll cage for flat fender willys/ford jeeps that would include mb, gpw, m38, cj2, etc. perfect fit and includes 2 new racing bucket seats, full width rear view mirror, twin offroad lamps prewired through frame and a cooler/ cupholder/ armrest (not shown) that settles perfectly between console rails. weighs approx. 150-175 lbs, everything moves as one unit and can be installed or removed by 2 people. i will pay $100 toward shipping costs or will trade for correct or @ least adequate seating for my ’43 gpw. may also trade up or down for BESTOP or similar top. thanks for looking.”

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/2673839192.html

 
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1950 M-38 Hot Rod Scottsale, Az $16,500

• CATEGORIES: Jeep Rods, M-38, Racing, Roll Cage • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  Still Available

(10/04/2010) This is a 2WD, street legal jeep.

“1950 Jeep Willys. This is an original (Titled & Registered) 1950 steal body Willys. It has been professionally rebuilt. It is one of a kind, no expense spared, best parts money can buy.

Fresh (new) 600 Plus HP 355 SB Chevy (Nitrous Motor) built by Denunzio Race Engines. New powerglide transmission built by Remac. New Curry Ford 9 inch rear end. New driveline, steering, front end (2WD). New digital 6 plus MSD computer. New seats, yellow top optima battery. NEW EVERYTHING….MINT CONDITION.
For more info and pictures give me a call. NO TRADES. Contact Todd at 480-540-5333. $16,500.”

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/2598055179.html

 
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6 Point Low Hood Cage Magalia, Ca $10 (yes, $10)

• CATEGORIES: Roll Cage

The seller just wants it gone.  No pics provided.

“I have a 6 point roll cage from a 1944 jeep willies. In great shape. Needs new Foam padding and a fresh coat of paint. I sold the jeep years ago with out it because i did not have new bolts to mount it with. Its just been sitting in my yard ever sense. I really just want it out of my yard and 10 BUCKS takes it away. Its probably worth at least 2 or 3 hundred. Call Jim in Magalia @ 530-873-4252″

http://chico.craigslist.org/for/2576339150.html

 
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Parkette Body and Bobcat Hood (& more) Yakima, Wa **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: Body Parts, Features, Racing, Roll Cage • TAGS: , .

UPDATE:  Last price was $1000. It sold.

The Parkette fiberglass body is an extreme rare, well made body.  One of the best things about this body is that a CJ-3A windshield will properly fit it, unlike the fiberglass Bobcat body.   During the 1970s, a friend of mine bought a Bobcat body, prepped it, and painted it.  When he stuck on the windshield he discovered the cowl was too flat to properly seat the windshield to the cowl.  To say he was angry was an understatement, because he felt he was mislead by the promises the manufacturer made.

So, after talking with the Parkette body manufacturer and getting assurances that the measurements were more accurate, he bought the body and has been happy about it ever since.

The body shownn below has had it’s rear wheel wells cut a bit.  It’s got a good looking rollcage that has been attached to the frame.  If this has been available when I was building biscuit, I would have started right here.

 
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Stainless Steel Full Cage for Flattie Trenton, NJ Make Offer

• CATEGORIES: Roll Cage

No pics provided, but sounds interesting.

“Professionally built, heavy-duty, stainless steel competition full-cage roll bar. Built for racing or for 4×4 safety. Will fit CJ3A. May fit CJ2A and CJ3B. (I believe they all have the same frame and tub.) Make offer. Call 609-530-1547, ask for Jim or leave message.”

http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/2411406208.html

 
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Roll Cage Draper, Ut $300

• CATEGORIES: Roll Cage

It’s a good price for a cage.  That front seat part looks pretty far forward though.

“I have for sale a custom built full roll cage for a Willys Jeep. This will fit the CJ2A, CJ3A, or M38. It incorporates the seat mounts for optimum safety as well. This is a very nice cage for a fraction of what it costs to build. Please call with any questions. (801) 403-8511, and ask for Kurt.”

http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/pts/1447285995.html

rollcage_draper

 
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My Build: Bending the Rollcage

• CATEGORIES: Biscuit, Idea Factory, Roll Cage

I spent much of the day doing the initial bending of my cage. I managed to complete the front loop and back loop. I was very pleased with the results and the bender. Thanks to Mitch for the front and back loop measurements. Those proved invaluable!

I will delay a discussion of my tube choice (size and type).  I spent A LOT of time researching various forums on the pros and cons of various sizes.  Then, there’s the whole DOM vs. HREW vs. CREW vs. Sched 40 vs. Chromoly … and more.  I’ve also been filing away various roll cage designs so that readers and builders can see all the different ideas.  In the end, my cage reflects the need to tie into my frame due to the fiberglass body, I also wanted it to look like my previous cage in my first jeep, and it includes a workaround for the mid loop attachment as I put the mid loop attachment closer to the seat then I wanted (oops). I also need to talk a little about the bender I built and the plans I used, but will save that for later too.

bender_first_bend

tube_cutterThe first thing I needed to do was calculate exactly how the bend of the tube changed the measurements and determine the inner and outer radius measurements so I could measure the loops correctly. I started by marking off a tube in 1 inch increments up to about 15″. Then I put the tube in the bender and bent the tube. I learned that my 2″ die created an outer radius of 7.5″ and the length of a 90 degree bend from start to finish was 10″.  You can see the inch markers and the tube cutter I was using in the pic to the right.

Another thing I learned was that I had to bend the tube about 3 degrees past the amount I wanted, as it would spring back 3 degrees when released from the bender (you can see it bent past 90 in the pic below).

Knowing that information, I measured and bent the front loop. The first two bends of 90 degrees went smoothly. Then, I cut down the bottom pieces so that, after I added the windshield contours, the front loop would measure 45″ from the loop to the floor boards. Next, I bent the loop with the windshield angle. My windshield sits at an angle of 15 degrees and the bend needed to start 20″ from the floor board. These also bent perfectly.

bender_back_loop_2ndbend

bender_front_loop

So far so good.

Next was the back loop. Based on Mitch’s measurements and the look I was after, I decided that 43″ from the loop to the back floor would be a perfect distance. I made the width the exact distance between the body sides, which is slightly narrow than a standard jeep due to the wider lip on the fiberglass body. Again, the 90 degree bends went perfectly. Then, I had to do 45 degree bends back towards the body. Unfortunately, after testing the loop on the jeep, 45 degrees wasn’t the angle I actually needed, so I had to bend both sides twice in order to increase the angles to the point where it would work correctly.

bender_midloop_beforebend

bender_back_loop_4thbend

Here’s a poor quality shot from my camera phone of both loops in their respective places.

bender_2loops

With the two toughest parts of the cage out of the way, the sun set and I moved inside. I also was getting a little tired, because when I attempted to bend the back supports, I managed to bend BOTH wrong — one was bent the wrong angle and one was bent in the wrong location. Fortunately, I can salvage the tube and use them in other places. At that point, I thought it best to head inside and cook dinner.

More pics tomorrow night.