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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
The earlycj5.com site recently published some great brochures about a CJ-5 truck called the overlander which was available in Australia. Check it out! (Thanks Dan).
Christian spotted this jeep with its unusual ‘battery box’.
“This posting is a 1943 WWII era jeep. Rare find for this particular year group. Drive train is in very god mechanical shape. Starts up and runs with ease and is frequently driven around our property. Specs on this jeep are: L-Head 4 cylinder Willy’s Jeep engine. 3 speed transmission w/reverse, Serial # – DPW111455. Gross weight 2,430 lbs. Date of Delivery to the War Department: 5-26-43. Included is the original fuel tank although it is not shown in the photos. Also included is The Complete WW2 Military Jeep Manual TM 9-803, a unique and complete owners manual for this jeep. How many other postings can offer that? Willing to trade for an equal in value pontoon boat. Email and I’ll answer questions or give directions.”
http://meridian.craigslist.org/cto/1884598027.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4000.
“1952 WILLY JEEP M 38 still running the body is in great shape the only thing altered is the second battery box was removed and bonded over. This was done before I received the Jeep. The 24 volt system was removed and the 12 put in its place. Let’s be honest here the body is probably the only original M38 part. The motor is a 6 cylinder from a scrambler placed in the jeep. The motor is a Buick V6 225. It has a 3 speed transmition out of a 1968 CJ5 as well as the transfer case they are the same make as used in the earlier willys. I added power steering to the jeep also. I do have extra parts also. I check my email all the time so if you are interested I will reply. make me an offer. Do not ask if i still have this i will not reply due to other people pushing a better way to sell.”
This looks good and includes a PTO & an Overdrive.
“1953 JEEP M38-A1,stock,straight,original,many extras,hard top,roll bar,tow bar,gas can/spare tire rack,PTO,warn overdrive,11 inch brake kit,warn hubs,extra motor,tune-up parts and lots more,never abused,turn key,clear title,$2800.00 firm.(509)773-5032(509)250-0169”
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1904456537.html
UPDATE: Was $5995.
Maybe it is the white on the rims, but something looks odd about them to me .. I can’t quite place it.
“Hello, We are selling our 1942 GPW Jeep with much regret. We were hopping to restore this wonderful jeep, but as we all know, the economy stinks so we selling this great creature. The serial # is 78169 and was build in Nov 11, 1942 and the hood # looks like # 20186593.
Thinks that I know about the Jeep;
It has 5 Combat Rims
4 NTD Tires and 1 other type, (maybe off road on a combat rim. It is on the back of the jeep in photos.
2 gas tanks for under the seat. one with a side spout and one that is filled by under the drivers seat.
Gauges look orginal, milage gage got painted by someone other than me
2 ID plates are there. 1 data plate missing
Some rust in the tool box bottom, but not bad.
looks like wrong radiator and carburetor
Looks like orginal Head marked GPW
Block is got the look of the orginal blue but not the matching block # as Serial #.
Engine turns over and looks like good compression
Has a what I believe is a T-90 transmission
Steel seats are “F” marked
Winshield is cracked
Missing horn and air filter
Has new “F” marked canopy frame”
This appears in good shape.
“NICE RUNNING JEEP, MANY NEW PARTS, 4WD WORKS PERFECTLY, NICE PAINT, NICE INTERIOR, READY FOR PARADES OR TO DRIVE EVERYDAY, IF YOU DONT LIKE GETTING THUMBS UP WHEN YOU DRIVE, THEN YOU DONT WANT THIS ONE. PLEASE CALL RUSS @ 603-642-8305 BEFORE 8PM. NO EMAILS PLEASE”
http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1903282758.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1000.
This is either mis-titled or is mixtured of parts.
“This is a non running 1948 jeep. I bought it a project. all the parts appear to be there. I no longer have the money or time due to other projects. I want to trade for a Quad of equal value in running condition. Please don’t call before 10 am.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was3500
(01/22/2010) It hasn’t been started in a while. It looks pretty solid.
“What we have here is a 1957 jeep fc150. It is a 4 cylinder manual transmission. It is complete, but I haven’t tried to start it since I got it. I am pretty sure that cleaning out the carb, putting some oil in the cylinders and fueling it up would do it. There are two places it is rusted through, a small spot under the passenger door and the bed, both easy to fix. Floor boards are solid, interior is complete. The sun has deteriorated the dash, easy to fix There are a number of surface rust spots, a little sandpaper and primer will take care of them. I don’t really want to sell, but I don’t have the time to work on it or a shop to put it in. The last one of these I saw on ebay was totally rusted out, missing parts and apart on a garage floor, the “buy it now” price was $5000. I have it priced at a reasonable $3500.”
UPDATE: This probably sold. Was priced at $400.
This might not be a bad price. The body appears a bit rough.
“Not in running condition ! Great for parts or a project vehicle. All original parts including a flathead 4 cyl. motor, T-90 trans. , transfercase, axels & seat frames. Does NOT have a canvas top or doors. Needs to be towed ! Cash only ! Leave your name and a phone number and a best time to call you or I won’t reply.”
Looks good.
“!949 CJ3A for sale. I bought this from a guy in Denver. Wiring was terrible, engine compartment was a fitter’s nightmare. Body off restoration 2008. Only holes in body are the holes that belong there. Painted Potomac Gray w/ Harvard Red wheels. All parts are used Willys (all refinished). New Koker tires and tubes. New instruments- Amp, oil press, temp, fuel. speedo came with car. Rebuilt carb from 2 Carters. Rewired gen’y for 12 V. All new hoses and correct type clamps. All new cloth wiring. Wired for turn signals to rear, but wires are put away. All body hardware in place for canvas top. Lower door channels are not installed, but are included. Missing: wipers, inside mirror, rear seat, battery hold-down bracket. All vacuum lines in place, rear seat mounts are in place. Just rebuilt starter( Bendix). New battery today. New coil today. Car has sat for about a year. Started today and drove. No problem. No leaks. Most seals are new. All fluids have been changed. I’ve been using lead additive. Didn’t take engine apart. Horn is correct tone.I bought this car for $5000, invested approx $6000. I’m selling because I have a ’55 CJ5 for a daily driver, and a ’61 DJ3 for my summer fun car. I will be selling a ’67 CJ5 V6 after trans is replaced (1st gear lost 2 teeth). I haven’t put more than 500 miles on this car. This car will ship almost anywhere in cont’l US for about $650.”
UPDATE: Price dropped to $1500. New Pics added.
(11/20/09) This is a one of the “lefty” cj-2as, with the spare tire mounted on the driver’s side. I swear I’ve seen this jeep before, but I can’t find it in my database. This ran before a bunch of work was done on it; and, there is still work left to be done.
“This is a ’48 Willys, it has been parked for over a year. Ran when it was parked. The lights have been converted to 12 volt and it has 15″ rims on it other than that it is original. I removed the wiring to replace it with more original style but have not finished this. The jeep ran good when it was parked, the tranny and transfer case have been completly rebuiltIt and the front shafts have been replaced. it has a one piece windshield frame with the glass cracked. If you want more pics email for them.”
http://corpuschristi.craigslist.org/cto/1903468771.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5200.
(06/03/2010) This looks pretty good for the price.
“1948 jeepster new top new curtains, runs good, carburator need a little work.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6000.
(08/01/2010) This looks nicely restored.
“1953 Willys M38 A1 Jeep good running condition”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay
(07/16/2010) Here’s a nice wagon, though it’s not exactly museum quality.
“One of the very few remaining unmolested Jeep carryalls in the world!! It is just one of 485 ever built in 1960. This vehicle was sold new near Springfield, Illinois in late 1959. It got repossesed shortly thereafter and remained in storage for years. An auto Museum in Springfield purchased the Jeep in the late 1990s and kept it until the museum closed a few months ago. The vehicle is amazingly solid with an all original interior. It has been painted in it’s original color. We see very little to no evidence of major rust issues. It runs and drives and is a blast. Comes with it’s original 1959 Illinois license plates!!”
UPDATE: Back on eBay
(02/16/2010) This is a project or parts jeep.
“You are bidding on a 1947 Willys, according to identification of rear end and body style. The engine is a Ford 6 cyl. and runs well has new starter. This is a project so it is rough some sheet metal has been replace and the brakes do not work. Trans seem to be in good shape, transfer case, High Low range and all gears. Clutch operates fine. As you can see in pictures no seats only original frames. Gas tank is removed. Rear hubs are welded on rears axel shafts but I do have extra shafts that have not been changed. Frame is in good shape. Just needs love and attention! I have no title but will give a bill of sale. As far as I know it is a Texas vehicle. No shipping available but I can store as long as needed at no charge. $ 500.00 due at close balance due in 3 days, cashiers check or money order.”
UPDATE: Sam has provided some detailed instructions (which will replace mine) and will also be sending some pics when he completes his next installation.
One idea Sam has shared with eWillys readers was the rack and pinion steering modification he has been doing. He describes this as a pretty straight forward installation that can replace the stock steering in any flattie. Sam says this takes him about four hours to complete. Pics are forthcoming on this modification.
Sam describes the process as follows:
1) Remove Steering: Take out the existing steering mechanism and the mounting plate.
2) Remove Drag Link: Remove drag link from old box to bell crank
3) Layout Straight Edge: With front wheels straight ahead, use a straight edge (anything will do, I use a piece of conduit) and lay one end on the passenger side tie rod from the spindle and the other side on the frame rail directly above the drivers side tie rod end at the spindle This will give you the approximate location for the rack and pinion. DO NOT USE original box location as this will put the cross link through the engine block.
4) Where to Mount Vega Plate: Take the Vega box mounting plate (The plate Sam uses is this plate from Unisteer.com) and using a large C-clamp, attach to frame with the top of the plate even with the top of the frame. This will put the mounting holes in the right place. You will notice the top two holes are inside the opening of the frame and the third hole is below the frame as it should be.
5) Temporarily Mount Rack: The rear edge of the Vega plate should be ONE inch ahead of the line from the tie rods towards the front of the vehicle. NOTE….at this point, it is very important to temporarily mount the rack (You may use longer bolts to clear the C-clamp). Once mounted, move the wheels all the way to the right and make sure you have at least one inch clearance between the cross link from the Rack and the oil pan. Do the same with turning the wheels to the left. If you have the proper clearance, you have the right location for the mounting plate for the Rack and Pinion.
6) Weld Plate to Frame: Weld the Vega plate in place and be sure to use the supplied gusset ( I use two of them, as I have found that with one gusset, there is a chance for mount twist under harsh conditions such as four-wheeling……strongly suggest you do the same grin grin)
7) Attach Rack and Pinion: Bolt the Rack and Pinion in place and attach the cross link to the Rack and with the Rack centered and the wheels dead ahead, mark the cross shaft for cutting allowing for the length of the tie rod end. Now you may cut, thread, and install the tie rod. The unit Sam uses is this cross steer rack from unisteer.com (that link is dead, but this may be the one). 
8) Determine Steering Rod Length: Using the conduit, determine the route from the bottom of your steering column to the Rack and Pinion. This varies with engine and frame variations but is very simple. Usually all that is required is to determine if the column needs to be shortened or if a double joint is needed. At this stage, determine what your shaft is…..splined, D shape, square, etc. This will determine which joint to use. If round, (with roll pins) I strongly suggest you modify it to D-shape for strength. Sometimes you have to use TWO rods from the column to the box. If so, USE ROD SUPPORTS before and after middle joint. You can get everything you need from Borgson Joints. If you choose the shorten your column (to use One Rod) you can can get the necessary seal and bearing from them too.
9) Double Check Everything: Double check everything for tightness and clearance and YOU ARE DONE — smile, have a beer.
This sounds simple and it really is, I’ve done soooo many of them, that I can do it start to finish in four hours. If anyone still needs help, just call me or Dave and I’ll be more than happy to walk you through it. The last one I did cost $612.42 for everything, Somewhat cheaper than regular boxes and a whole lot better looking and steering.
If properly installed, you’ll notice the steering much tighter while driving and capable of easily turning under the weight of even a V8 when parked.
These are project and/or parts vehicles that I have collected but don’t know when I will be able to restore! Their condition ranges from running but needing restoration, (2), to not running but with most of the parts needed to restore including engines and running gear. 3 have titles and I will supply a bill of sale for the other 2. This will make it possible to acquire a title through a title agency if you like. I’m asking $6000.00 for everything. Reasonable offers considered!
Included are also numerous extra parts including:
1 dash/cowl/ firewall assembly
3 T18 transfer case assemblies
1 T90 transmission assembly
1 dana 30 rear differential
1 dana 25 front differential
7 bottom mount radiators and cores for CJ2A
5 windshield frame assemblies 4 for CJ2A & 1 for CJ3A
4 left fenders
6 right fenders
3 grille assemblies
2 L134 blocks
starters, generators, other odds & ends.
I have more pictures upon request.
This group lot is for sale locally and I reserve the right to cancel this listing at any time!
http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/1902985038.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $7000.
Needs some work still.
“1942 WWII Jeep. Ford Stamped. Rebuilt motor and transmission, brakes. Body needs work. Strong motor.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4800.
The seller believes this has NOT been restored. It appears in good condition.
“Never restored original. Good Shape. Driven regulary in the summer. have soft top with doors and various extra parts. Serious inquiries only by phone. No emails. $4800”
This is interesting. It’s a CJ-2A being sold as a 1947, but has a serial number of 28367, which means it should have the tool indents as well. It could mean the body is a replacement or something else. Or, someone has melded a couple jeeps together.
“The CJ2A is the civilian version of the famous WWII Jeep (known as the MB) from which the term “Jeep” was coined. Of course, there were no new vehicles available during the war, so the civilian versions were first produced in July of 1945 (2 months after V-E day and 1 month *before* V-J day!), As far as Jeeps go though, this body style is the absolute earliest a civilian could purchase.
As you can see, this particular CJ2A has been painted in military colors, and is equipped with military tires. pristine, restored examples. This particular jeep has obviously been hacked on over the years, although sometimes its hard to tell wether something has been altered somewhere along the line or if its just 1940s technology.”
http://www.rpmconnections.com/Details.php?id=224
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $4950.
It’s not quite finished, but appears solid.
“Selling 1946 Willys CJ2A Jeep. This is an early civilian Jeep made to look similar to a military style. It has a rebuilt original “Go-Devil” engine. The transmission and transfer case have also been rebuilt. The Jeep has a working rear PTO winch. The radiator has been completely redone including the shroud. Additionally, the original Carter WO carb is in the process of being restored and rebuilt. It has been converted to 12V. The Jeep runs great and looks decent enough for parades, cruises, etc. Please do not hesitate to ask any questions. $4950″
UPDATE: **SOLD** for $10,500
“This is a Willys Jeep pickup used exclusively for a Fire Department brush fire response vehicle. It spent it’s life garaged, warm and clean. Because of this it has no rust and 29K original miles. It is BETTER than a frame-up restoration, because it hasn’t yet gotten to the point of needing restoring. It is still a fun, reliable, licensed and inspected daily driver in the mechanical condition of any truck with 29K miles. Of course, there are the added perks of a loud siren and flashing lights if you want to be noticed even more. I have owned it for five years (bought it directly from the fire company) and would be happy to keep it, but like many people, I have growing cash flow problems, so I have to take a cold look at my priorities. It is time to sell. I have set a fair and reasonable reserve for the quality of this antique. It is located near Binghamton, NY and you could drive it home if you wanted, but it would be a crime to run up needless mileage and wear. A flat bed trailer would be best, or hire a car hauler. This is a 50 year old antique, so naturally there is no warranty. Sold as-is, where-is. Try to get your questions in well before the auction ends so I have time to answer.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2500
“Camo painted jeep with good engine and drive train. Body in good condition for age. I have new gas tank that needs to be installed. Leak in brake lines need repair. The second Jeep, a 1940’s willys military MB is a parts jeep with frozen engine, good body parts, trans and rearend. Both jeeps go for just $2500. Please, no trades, cash sale only.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2000
“1953 CJ3-A Willy’s Jeep. 42″ swampers, Rebuilt 400 Dodge big block, 727 auto tranny, 203 tranfercase. 90% done needs some work, but runs and drives. $2000”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay for $549.
“Up for auction is a rare Hamilton Jeep peddle car from the 1950’s. I cannot find a name anywhere on it but I found it listed Evolution of the Pedal Car volume 5. As you can see in the pictures it has been repainted and wheels put on. Buyer to pay all shipping charges. I can arrange shipping but it is to large to ship UPS so it will have to shipped freight. I will box it up and put it on a pallet to make sure it does not get damaged. I accept cash upon local pick up, credit cards and Paypal. Check out my other items!”
